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That damn top transmission bolt

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    #31
    Electric impact may do the trick for you actually, inexpensive to buy or rent
    OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

    Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



    Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

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      #32
      I struggled with this bastard for 4 hours back when i had my parts car with an m20 On a trip to harbor frieght i found this.



      Go there. Buy it now. And snake it down from the engine bay. Took me two minutes after i bought it. Dont bother with 1058 extentions. You loose all your torque when you have multiple extentions. This is a great tool.
      1985 325e M50TU(Sold)
      1991 318is Slicktop (Sold)
      1990 325is Brilliantrot S50/5 Lug Swapped.
      1992 525i Manual shitbox Winter Beater

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        #33
        I drop the subframe 1" and can easily get to the bolts with a wobble bar.
        2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
        2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
        1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
        1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
        - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
        1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
        1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

        Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
        Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

        sigpic

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          #34
          Originally posted by nrubenstein View Post
          I drop the subframe 1" and can easily get to the bolts with a wobble bar.
          This helps.

          Also, remove the sound deadening in the tunnel to get better access (needs to be done when transmission is out, but helps for future access)

          I use several sections of 12" extensions and I tap it into the hex bolt to seat it properly.

          I had one strip once and used this http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece...ets-67894.html with excellent results!!

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            #35
            Well I pulled the motor today. I didn't even have a load leveler and now I see how one would be helpful :D

            Pulling the motor really wasn't a big deal at all. I give big thanks to those who have suggested just disconnecting the ECU harness and pulling the engine out. I wasn't sure how it was going to work at first but after studying all the lines and hoses for bit I saw how and it turned out to be a HUGE timesaver.

            Once the engine was out of the car "that damn top transmission bolt" was out in 30 seconds of trying thanks to the Craftsman damaged bolt removal kit.



            I had never used those suckers before but they are AWESOME!

            I am excited to have the engine out, ideally I would be shifting my own gears by now and everything would be back together but I have plenty of time and im not driving my car in the snow. Just need it to be ready for some track events in April.

            So everything is getting cleaned, new gaskets/seals (minus the head gasket) and replacing couple of hoses (heater hose elbows) that were original and cracking.

            It feels really good to see that much progress in one short day of work, didn't get too dirty, didn't break anything, and I wasn't crawling around on my back under the car.

            Good day!
            Last edited by Sagaris; 01-14-2012, 04:00 PM.

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