Half-shafts....new or rebuilt?

[Landrunner]

So I've done a bit of searching and it seems that there are some definite issues with purchasing rebuilt half-shafts, mainly the fact that the splines often get mangled during the process. Can anyone tell me what their experiences are? New half-shafts are crazy expensive and if I can avoid purchasing them without making more work/a huge headache for myself, I'd like to.

[jlevie]

The rebuilt half shafts are a mix bag. The sometimes have damaged splines and I've never seen any that had the correct outboard boots. That isn't a surprise as I've not seen any non-OE boots that were correct either. The problem with the boots is that they have the wrong shape and rub on the shocks.

My preference is to use the OE half shafts, replacing the boots and packing with new grease as necessary. I'll replace bad half shafts with used parts (after installing new boots) before I'll put in a rebuilt.

It isn't difficult to replace the boots and re-pack the CV joints. The OE boot kits come with everything needed except the axel nuts and lock washer.

[Landrunner]

Thanks for your help, since you replied to my other thread, would re-packing the joints solve the god awful noise I'm hearing, if it is in fact related to the half shaft?

[jlevie]

No. If the CV joints are worn to the point that they are the cause of the noise repacking won't help.

Typically, unless the car has extreme mileage or has been run with cracked/torn boots the CV joints aren't likely to be the cause. You can assess the wear by seeing how much you can rotate just the half shaft with the transmission in gear and the parking brake set. If in good condition there will be little rotation.

[SpecM]

It isn't difficult to replace the boots and re-pack the CV joints. The OE boot kits come with everything needed except the axel nuts and lock washer.

where do you get the kits? RealOEM doesn't show a part number

[///M42 sport]

I replaced mine with rebuilt halfshafts from autozone. No issues. You can always visually inspect the splines before you walk out of the store.

Rebuilding the boots yourself is fine, but its rediculously messy and takes hours to clean/repack. Depends on how much you value your time.

[jlevie]

where do you get the kits? RealOEM doesn't show a part number

I only trust a dealer for them. Parts 5 & 6 on http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...70&hg=33&fg=25

[jeffnhiscars]

I just bought a sub frame minus the diff to do a drum>disc swap. The plan is to freshen the new sub frame so all I have to do is drop the old one, swap the diff and reinstall (sounds too easy, I know, but I said "plan":).

The axles that came with it seem tight but the boots are bad and when I priced them (2 per side) it came to about the same $60 that Autozone wants for rebuilt axles. Seems silly cheap but the pic shows GKN Lobro which is OEM although they could still have Chinese parts...but for the price does it really make sense to spend the same money on new boots for a used axle with no known history ?

[jlevie]

If the half shaft CV joints are tight, I'd replace the boots and re-pack the joints.

[KenC]

Thanks for your help, since you replied to my other thread, would re-packing the joints solve the god awful noise I'm hearing, if it is in fact related to the half shaft?

Are you sure the noise isn't your rear wheel bearings?

[jeffnhiscars]

If the half shaft CV joints are tight, I'd replace the boots and re-pack the joints.

I've done u-joints but never a CV joint. Is it as simple as R&R the boot or do you have to take the joint apart and put the bearings back ?

[Landrunner]

Are you sure the noise isn't your rear wheel bearings?

It certainly might be, but it doesn't really seem like the bearings are bad. They don't make much noise in a straight line and the wheel doesn't appear to have much play in it.

The way I see it, this is a 21 year old car with 21 year old mechanicals and now is as good a time as any to refresh the entire rear end. I'm a big fan of preventative maintenance and doing things in one fell swoop as opposed to having the car laid up a few times.

[Chruby99]

I sent my front iX shafts out to a rebuilder on the east coast. 160 Each with a lifetime warranty. CNC rebuild with oversize bearings. Quality and you get your factory shafts back. Shipping is extra, there and back

[E30Gus]

Does anyone have experience with new (not rebuilt) ones from O'Reilly's?
My buddy works there and I can get them cheap.

[barry]

There are several parts that can wear or crack in old shafts, changing the boots and adding new grease is a very small part of a rebuild.The cages wear which causes the bearings to lock up, the star also wears which causes the housing to lockup. I buy all these parts new and they are OE parts. The boots & clamps are also designed for these half Shafts that I use with no shock absorber hitting.. I installed a set on my car 260,000 miles ago and there still running great. About splines, they usually do not go bad, unless your bearings go bad or your hub nut and lock washer are faulty.. Also if you use a hammer etc for disasembly you can damage your splines very easily. The best shafts for your car are OE they are much stronger and way better quality, but then again you get what you pay for. I sell most of my shafts to Europeans and they pay close to $600.00 a set and love them.