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    That damn top transmission bolt

    I made every preparation I could to avoid it, but it still happened.

    The top transmission inverted torx bolt is just rounded enough to where any amount of torque (even when making every effort to keep it square) causes the socket to pop off. It is the last bolt I need to remove to get the trans. off too.

    I have the trans. cross member removed and the engine mounts loosened so that the engine can be tilted up for better clearance.

    Searching around gave me quite a few threads with different recommendations for removing a damaged inverted top torx bolt on an e30 or e36 but a lot of them were inconclusive or plainly stated "okay I got it off" without explaining how.

    I saw this set mentioned in one of the threads: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952166000P I think this is going to be my next step but before I go out and give that a whirl, I'd like to see if any of you smart fellows have experience with this.

    #2
    1: How in the WORLD did you manage to strip that? Out of ALL the bolts I'd want to be VERY careful not to strip, that will be the one I'd be most careful trying to take off

    2: My guess is that it would be cheaper to JB weld the socket to the torx so it won't pop out, replace both bolt and socket of course. I've personally have never had much success with damaged bolt extractors, that included.
    Originally posted by TSI
    ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
    OEM+

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      #3
      The JB weld is a good idea. Make sure you put some of the other bolts back in to take stress off that one. I always remove that bolt last of the 4 big ones.
      CHEAP REBUILT INJECTORS




      Need Quality Brakes? BimmerBrakes has it!
      For anything Else go with BluntTech!

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        #4
        Can you get to it from the top? Vice grips on the torx socket with pressure from a pry bar or similar on the end to keep the socket on the bolt.
        Lorin


        Originally posted by slammin.e28
        The M30 is God's engine.

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          #5
          Originally posted by LJ851 View Post
          Can you get to it from the top?
          Nope, not on an M20, I know the M10 has space for it though, this is about the only time I would rather have an M10 :D

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            #6
            Im going to assume you are using long extensions and a universal joint up at the socket because thats how i do it.

            Try to make the angle on the universal joint as straight as possible and then experiment with different positions of the universal joint (rotationally) because some u-joint angles create a lot more side load than others. You might be able to find a position that has enough bite to remove it.
            Lorin


            Originally posted by slammin.e28
            The M30 is God's engine.

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              #7
              I am actually using just straight extensions with no swivel. I am going to buy a single long extension to prevent the whole chain of them from sagging and shifting the socket off-square under torque.

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                #8
                JB weld d00d ......
                Originally posted by TSI
                ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
                OEM+

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by lolcantturn View Post
                  JB weld d00d ......
                  So far the order of operations will be:

                  1) Put a piece of a plastic bag in the socket, hammer it on then try it (recommendation in another thread, doesn't sound promising but there is no harm in trying this)
                  2) JB
                  3) damaged bolt kit

                  I might not head back out to where my car is located til the weekend but I will hopefully hear some more suggestions and have more ideas to try by then.
                  Last edited by Sagaris; 01-02-2012, 02:20 PM.

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                    #10
                    good luck!
                    Originally posted by TSI
                    ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
                    OEM+

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                      #11
                      I think one key here is stated above: Reinstall a couple of the other bolts down lower on the bellhousing to take some stress off the top bolt when you're breaking it loose.
                      STX e30
                      No. 10/110 STX: 1989 325i
                      DD: 1991 318is slicktop

                      SHAZAM, GOMER, LOOK AHEAD.

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                        #12
                        And fire if you can get access to a torch up there. fire always makes things easier.
                        Originally posted by TSI
                        ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
                        OEM+

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                          #13
                          that is a really tight place to have a fire. slightly darwinian...

                          You could try another inverted torx socket. Some are tigher fit than others and would do the trick, I'd suggest borrowing/buying a high quality american made one if you don't have one in your tool set.

                          did you soak the bolts in PB blaster or similar?
                          OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

                          Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



                          Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

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                            #14
                            i had to do a trans swap on ubernasty's vert, he refused to take the whole motor/trans out. took 3x as long to get the old trans out and new one in.

                            all parties involved agree best way is just pull the motor and trans or if you can drop the subframe with motor trans on it. easies way.

                            so for you, id drop the subframe, then you have all the access to that bolt you need

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by devon.818 View Post
                              i had to do a trans swap on ubernasty's vert, he refused to take the whole motor/trans out. took 3x as long to get the old trans out and new one in.

                              all parties involved agree best way is just pull the motor and trans or if you can drop the subframe with motor trans on it. easies way.
                              This! If you have an engine hoist and load leveler you can pull and replace the engine & transmission faster than you can get the bolts out of the transmission with the engine in the car.
                              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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