If your ICV is working just fine stop, return to hot chicks thread.
If you have not already cleaned as per THIS stop and do.
If you like lady gaga you can gtfo
There is the possibly of buggering up your ICV by attempting this. Don't do unless you're competent and can afford the possibility of breaking your ICV.
Directions are for PN 0 280 140 509 from a 1988 325IX.
The objectives here are:
Again, if it already works fine, don't attempt.
You will need:
Start by removing the ICV from the car and removing the little stubby hose.
Next clean the outside of it very good and locate the index marks. There will be 4, 2 on the black body and 2 on the aluminum case each pair will be 180deg off from the other. Mark them with whiteout or something so you can find them again when assembling.
Next pry up the small tabs that hold the top black piece with connector to the bottom aluminum piece. This might be tricky. I used a small flat blade to get them started then a larger flat blade to finish prying up out of the groove.
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Now carefully use a slight twisting motion and pull the halves apart. It shouldn't take much force to separate. Once pulling apart, DO NOT let it pull itself back together.
Once you have the halves apart, remove the black cone shaped spacer. It's probably stuck inside the connector half.
If the shaft does not rotate easily now is the time to use some brake clean and get that valve clean. It's clean when it rotates freely.
Now you can use some scotchbrite to polish up the commutator. Just enough to remove the score marks from the brushes have left. Spray off with electrical contact cleaner. *be careful with this stuff as it might eat plastic
Put the cone shaped spacer together with some lube back onto the end of the commutator shaft.
upload images
To remove the electrical plug and brushes from within the black housing cut the indents with a dremel tool or similar. There's three indents ~33 deg from each other. Be careful to cut only the metal and not into the plastic.
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Once you have those cut, you can push/tap on the connector to free it.
You'll have to pull the magnets out now to remove the connector bit. Use a right angle pick to hook the metal magnet spacers and pull them out. The magnets are not glued in and can just be pulled out with your fingers. Careful not to let them snap together. If you crack/break them your ICV is junk.
Now you can pull the connector and brushes out of the case. You want to carefully clean the brush faces. Use electrical contact cleaner. If they need more than that, use a points file. (or other really small, fine toothed file) You don't want to use sandpaper because that will round the brush heads off.
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Use a rag and some brake clean and clean the inside of the housing good.
Lube up the o-ring and re-install the connector/brushes head the same way it came out. You can push it back in with a flat blade being careful to push lugnut patterns around the edge of it until it's all the way seated
Now install the magnets. This is a little bit of a PITA so have patience. I assembled the magnets and spacers on my counter first, then lifted it all very carefully to the housing and started working it in all as one piece. Push it in till it's roughly 1/4 inch from the outside edge. If it's not in far enough the lower aluminum part will push it in the rest of the way when assembling the halves together so no big deal.
jpeg image hosting
Next lube to bottom o-ring and re-install the lower portion. Be very careful when doing this. The cone shaped spacer pushes the brushes out of the way when you're inserting but you need to take care to keep the motor centered between the magnets when pushing it in. Don't let it snap in or to either side while doing this.
upload images
When both halves are together rotate them till the index marks line up again. This is important. Too far off and it won't work at all and a little bit off will adjust your idle speed.
image upload
Test the resistance between the three connections. As per the manual you should read about 40 Ohms between the two outside connections (1 - 3) and about 20 Ohms a piece between the middle and either outside connection (1 - 2 and 2 - 3). If you don't get this, your ICV is junk or your index marks are not lined up.
jpeg image hosting
jpeg image hosting
With the index marks lined up and good resistance readings gotten, you can press the tabs back into the grove. I used a channel lock pliers to move them part way then finished them with a flat blade. You want them tucked in snug like they were before. If they are loose the housing could rotate and the aluminum part making idle erratic/adjustable.
Use some JB weld and fill in the slots you cut with the dremel tool to remove the brushes head and paint/marker or otherwise cover up the hold together tabs if you're concerned about appearance.
image hosting jpg
If you have not already cleaned as per THIS stop and do.
If you like lady gaga you can gtfo
There is the possibly of buggering up your ICV by attempting this. Don't do unless you're competent and can afford the possibility of breaking your ICV.
Directions are for PN 0 280 140 509 from a 1988 325IX.
The objectives here are:
- Clean the electrical contacts as to not have any electrical interference
- Remove any buildup or corrosion or gunked grease which would cause rotating resistance and/or irregularities
- Not break anything
Again, if it already works fine, don't attempt.
You will need:
- right angle pick or similar
- small screwdrivers to pry tabs up with
- medium screwdriver to push tabs back into place with.
- electrical contact cleaner (not rubbing alcohol)
- brake clean or 'heat' something that evaps fast and cleanly
- green scotchbrite pad for polishing the commutator
- white lithium grease for lubing up the rotating bits
- Multimeter for checking resistance is within spec
- patience
Start by removing the ICV from the car and removing the little stubby hose.
Next clean the outside of it very good and locate the index marks. There will be 4, 2 on the black body and 2 on the aluminum case each pair will be 180deg off from the other. Mark them with whiteout or something so you can find them again when assembling.
Next pry up the small tabs that hold the top black piece with connector to the bottom aluminum piece. This might be tricky. I used a small flat blade to get them started then a larger flat blade to finish prying up out of the groove.
gif image hosting
Now carefully use a slight twisting motion and pull the halves apart. It shouldn't take much force to separate. Once pulling apart, DO NOT let it pull itself back together.
Once you have the halves apart, remove the black cone shaped spacer. It's probably stuck inside the connector half.
If the shaft does not rotate easily now is the time to use some brake clean and get that valve clean. It's clean when it rotates freely.
Now you can use some scotchbrite to polish up the commutator. Just enough to remove the score marks from the brushes have left. Spray off with electrical contact cleaner. *be careful with this stuff as it might eat plastic
Put the cone shaped spacer together with some lube back onto the end of the commutator shaft.
upload images
To remove the electrical plug and brushes from within the black housing cut the indents with a dremel tool or similar. There's three indents ~33 deg from each other. Be careful to cut only the metal and not into the plastic.
image hosting jpg
Once you have those cut, you can push/tap on the connector to free it.
You'll have to pull the magnets out now to remove the connector bit. Use a right angle pick to hook the metal magnet spacers and pull them out. The magnets are not glued in and can just be pulled out with your fingers. Careful not to let them snap together. If you crack/break them your ICV is junk.
Now you can pull the connector and brushes out of the case. You want to carefully clean the brush faces. Use electrical contact cleaner. If they need more than that, use a points file. (or other really small, fine toothed file) You don't want to use sandpaper because that will round the brush heads off.
jpg image hosting
Use a rag and some brake clean and clean the inside of the housing good.
Lube up the o-ring and re-install the connector/brushes head the same way it came out. You can push it back in with a flat blade being careful to push lugnut patterns around the edge of it until it's all the way seated
Now install the magnets. This is a little bit of a PITA so have patience. I assembled the magnets and spacers on my counter first, then lifted it all very carefully to the housing and started working it in all as one piece. Push it in till it's roughly 1/4 inch from the outside edge. If it's not in far enough the lower aluminum part will push it in the rest of the way when assembling the halves together so no big deal.
jpeg image hosting
Next lube to bottom o-ring and re-install the lower portion. Be very careful when doing this. The cone shaped spacer pushes the brushes out of the way when you're inserting but you need to take care to keep the motor centered between the magnets when pushing it in. Don't let it snap in or to either side while doing this.
upload images
When both halves are together rotate them till the index marks line up again. This is important. Too far off and it won't work at all and a little bit off will adjust your idle speed.
image upload
Test the resistance between the three connections. As per the manual you should read about 40 Ohms between the two outside connections (1 - 3) and about 20 Ohms a piece between the middle and either outside connection (1 - 2 and 2 - 3). If you don't get this, your ICV is junk or your index marks are not lined up.
jpeg image hosting
jpeg image hosting
With the index marks lined up and good resistance readings gotten, you can press the tabs back into the grove. I used a channel lock pliers to move them part way then finished them with a flat blade. You want them tucked in snug like they were before. If they are loose the housing could rotate and the aluminum part making idle erratic/adjustable.
Use some JB weld and fill in the slots you cut with the dremel tool to remove the brushes head and paint/marker or otherwise cover up the hold together tabs if you're concerned about appearance.
image hosting jpg