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Old 02-04-2017, 06:56 PM   #16
ZEKTI
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Was able to get a new Zender front valance locally. New brakes and suspension bits all around should be arriving later this week. Went with the Bilstein B12 cup kit.


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Old 02-12-2017, 02:34 PM   #17
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Some parts came in from FCP Euro. Very satisfied with how fast all the parts got delivered. Roughly 3 business days for shipping with specialty BMW parts not normally in stock.

Got the front end suspension torn off. Waiting on the Bilstein kit to arrive to reassemble.


Last edited by ZEKTI; 02-20-2017 at 04:32 PM.
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Old 02-12-2017, 05:03 PM   #18
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Try magic eraser on the seats, should take the spots outs easily.
A good tune up and valve adjustment will wake the engine up.
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Old 02-16-2017, 07:35 PM   #19
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The magic eraser trick worked quite well thank you. Will need to go get a few boxes to completely do the interior. Hopefully will be able to work on the suspension and brakes this weekend but the Bilstein Kit and rest of suspension and brake hardware from ECS has yet to arrive and they were ordered same time as FCP. More updates to come.
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Old 02-17-2017, 02:57 AM   #20
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Great garage. Good build. Need a Kamei build, too.
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Old 02-17-2017, 06:38 AM   #21
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looking forward to the progress, keep up the good work
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Old 02-19-2017, 05:14 PM   #22
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Small update from the weekend. Not much actual progress as the both front control arms needed cutout of the subframe. The front strut inserts also needed cutout. Rears were simple. Going to stick with drums for now. Just trying to bring it all mechanically back to stock then work from there. If anyone has any suggestions for a bushing press please leave a comment.

Nut would back off then just spin.
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Old 03-19-2017, 03:57 PM   #23
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Some progress made this weekend. Ordered new halfshafts from ECS Tuning but they have the ABS ring. NAPA has some remans for non ABS that will most likely be used. Going to be using my old open diff from 318ti for now. Potentially make original an LSD but case itself is pretty corroded.


Subframe is dropped and painted. Getting it off was a bit of a pita as the mount had broken inside of the car. There was enough meat left on them to grab with vice grips.




The only poly bushing is the diff currently. Lemforder for the RTAB and subframe. The AKG tool made the trailing arms easy. As for the subframe they needed to be cut in half then hammered out. The new ones slid in very easy. I was worried without a press it was going to fight us but both sides took 15 minutes tops to press in using a vice grip, soap and odd tools. First placed a piece of wood on the top and bottom of subframe and mount. Vice grip to press together. Went with little resistance. To finish pressign as it would hit the wood grabbed an output flange from spare diff. Couldn't have gone in easier.


Front suspension on back together and calipers rebuilt.


Rear put together. Need a few parts for the drums that are coming from Germany
but new lines ran. Wheels bearings in as well.


Put the wheels on to get an idea of the drop with Eibach spings. Not much but looks correct for period imo.



Will be finishing the rear drums shortly and getting a new exhaust system. Driveshaft needs replacements as well. Once completed focus can shift to the trans and engine. Few questions I did have are on tires. Plan is to keep the wheels. 6.5x14. Current tire size is good but 205/60/14 is not available for anything in summer other then Federal 595. Thoughts and thanks!
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Old 04-02-2017, 05:07 PM   #24
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The stock halfshafts were rebuilt this weekend and installed. Brakes completed and lines flushed. Stock Bosal exhaust hung. Trans fluid changed to Redline MTL. Started the car up and drove down the street a few times. None of the instruments read anything. Fuel gauge spikes but that's it. Brakes are very soft and almost nothing until pedal fully compressed. Suspension feels good and tight for the speed which was driven. No clunks/rattles. Motor idles smoothly for only having an oil change since it's been out of storage. Got car back on lift. Noticed diff fluid leaking from both flanges. Not sure what I did wrong. Used the flanges from the stock diff on the car (small case) and used the diff from my 98 318ti (small case). Are the halfshafts shorter on the non ABS cars? I am doubting seals as both sides just started and leak approximately the same rate/amount of fluid. Thanks all!
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Old 04-17-2017, 05:29 PM   #25
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So made small progress on it. Brakes were bled manually and saw an improvement but nothing until pedal is almost fully depressed. Brother figured out the differential issue. The diff from the car has 35MM output shafts while my old one from Ti has 44MM. Potentially going to to using a combination of parts to make a usable diff. The stock ratio is 3.64 while Ti is 3.45. New tires mounted, Falken Azenis RT615K - 195/60/144. Starting to feel like a solid car.
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Old 04-18-2017, 08:16 AM   #26
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I recently made a large improvement in brake pedal feel by getting the drums to adjust. They're supposed to be self adjusting but mine weren't. I took the drum off, applied some penetrating oil to the adjusters, and expanded the shoes. Eventually the adjuster expanded. It made a big difference in the pedal travel.
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Old 04-20-2017, 09:28 AM   #27
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Great progress, I like this thing!
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Old 07-11-2017, 04:47 PM   #28
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Progress has been slower with life and myself finishing up swapped compact. Trying to get all the bits and pieces for the front sorted. In photo below is all that currently have for the front other then Zender valance/bumper.


Is it safe to say I will need most everything in diagram? What can I get away with not replacing?

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Old 12-17-2017, 08:20 AM   #29
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84 318 Zender Rebuild

Started researching M10 na builds and how to pull a few more hp from it. Just want to liven it up. Found a few things that are needed.

Lightweight flywheel/stock clutch
Billet Rockers
Cam
Headers
Port/polish
Remove snorkel
Possible valve spring upgrade

Stock bottom end. Seems overall pretty straightforward. Should I remove the mechanical fan?


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Old 12-17-2017, 01:10 PM   #30
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Oh this brings back memories, I've had my 84 318i for over ten years now. I still remember how it drove with the m10b18 once it was running good. I've driven the piss out of it until the stock m10 1.8l block cracked in many places (it was original), it was a momentum car that's for sure...but throw some good suspension on it and good sticky tires and it was fun...just crappy FI system compared to later Motronic setups you'll find in m20+ cars.

Personally, I would have swapped the rear brakes to disc and upgraded the fronts to late model brakes as you get vented rotors that way too.

Leave the mechanical fan, you have no reason to remove it imho. I'd look for 2.0 block and build that up with a spare M10 head and then swap it it if you ended on sticking with M10 NA way, displacement helps. Who did the floor repair, it looks like it's some serious sheet metal there, with rivets or what are those?

Nice project man!
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