R3VLimited Forums

Go Back   R3VLimited Forums > E30 Technical Forums > Appearance & Cosmetic > Body & Paint

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-10-2008, 11:11 AM   #31
naika
E30 Addict
 
naika's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Paris, France
Posts: 459
I'm getting my car painted next week, what should I do to it when i get it back from the shop. I assume it wouldn't be as intensive as the waxing job described here.
I though of waxing it and using some sealant as well, but to be honest, I'm pretty much clueless.

Thanks
__________________
344is! Obd1 conversion

naika is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2009, 10:39 PM   #32
red325
E30 Modder
 
red325's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: seattle
Posts: 961
Bringing this thread back to life

I realize this thread is in the body/paint section, but, seeing as many of you are detailers, I was wondering if you could make some suggestions on steam cleaners.

In the next month or two I'm planning on purchasing and wanted to hear if you had any suggestions or opinions. Are they worth it?

Budget is probably 800, but I'd still like to hear your recommendations if it's over that.

Thanks
Thomas
red325 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2010, 10:50 PM   #33
Be30mer
E30 Enthusiast
 
Be30mer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,121
Quote:
Originally Posted by adept View Post


I had that nasty brown stripe on the side and it was a pain in the ass to remove from my car, but it looks much better without it.
Be30mer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2010, 10:30 AM   #34
E30_(1st Musk)_
R3VLimited
 
E30_(1st Musk)_'s Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: San Fernando Valley, CA
Posts: 2,008
Am i getting this correct.

1. wash car
2. clay car
3.polish
4.wax.... but when do we put on the sealer ?
__________________
]
E30_(1st Musk)_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2010, 08:56 PM   #35
NbAmTwE
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 148
^^
yeah you wash the car as mentioned, clay the car, polish the car, and then seal the paint with a layer of wax/sealant. Wax and sealant do the same thing, they are both sealers.
NbAmTwE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2010, 10:18 PM   #36
jrobie79
R3VLimited
 
jrobie79's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: NH
Posts: 2,420
Send a message via AIM to jrobie79
anyone have any current autogeek coupon codes? everything ive tried from google comes back expired....thanks
__________________
1991 318is ---230K - DD
1991 318i ---- 308K - retired

Quote:
Originally Posted by RickSloan View Post
so if you didnt get it like that did you glue fuzzy oil to the entire thing?
jrobie79 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2010, 05:00 PM   #37
txtorquemade
E30 Mastermind
 
txtorquemade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 1,758
Send a message via Yahoo to txtorquemade
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turf1600 View Post
wow - reading this made me realize i have no idea how to detail a car. Still don't.


LOLZ.... Thinking the same thing.
__________________
1987 325is
txtorquemade is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2011, 11:58 PM   #38
Massimo
No R3VLimiter
 
Massimo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Upside down land
Posts: 3,207
Quote:
Originally Posted by whakiewes View Post
I will give a quick rundown of what I do for most details that come into my shop with a few pictures.

~ Hose off entire car well. I prefer to use a pre-soap to loosen dirt and grime. Adams makes a great pre-wash. Using two buckets, I use ClearKote car wash in a 1oz:1 gallon configuration. I prefer to use a clean lambs wool mitt. I have had so-so results using boars hair. Starting from the top of rinsed and wet car, I work my way down. You want the last part you wash to be the dirtiest (front bumper, behind wheels, rocker panels). Hose after each panel to keep soap from drying into the paint. I prefer to use a an airgun when possible followed by a microfiber drying towel, but the two towel rule works well.
~ ONLY claybar a well-cleaned car. Very dirty cars may require multiple cleanings before suitable to claybar, otherwise you will ruin your clay quickly. Again, I start on the top of the car working my way down, doing the dirtiest parts last. Once I am done claybaring, I rewash the car and do an entire coat of ClearKote Quik Shine. This helps me to analyze any serious problem areas as well as give me a nice surface to work on. Always remove excess lube with a clean microfiber towel.
~ Starting with a dual action and a cutting pad (I prefer Lake Country, but I have used Meguiars and 3M, all work well), I work my cutting polish at speed 5 or 6 depending on the product. If starting with Poorboys SSR, I use speed 5. If using ClearKote Compound Creme or Blue Moose Cutting Creme, I use speed 6. I start on the top doing about 2'X2' sections. The biggest key here is to take your time. Almost every DIY detailer I have helped goes way to fast and the results are marginal. Products have to be broken down and without a rotary buffer, you need to work the product a lot. Polish each section until there is literally just a haze of polish left. If there is visible polish on the panel, you have not worked the product through. Remove left over residue with a clean microfiber towel. Wipe down car with Quik Shine to verify there is no left over cutting that needs to be done.
~ Next I move to my polishing stage. Depending on color and application I prefer to use Red Moose Machine Polish, Poorboys Professional Polish, or Meguiars Machine Polish. If cutting was not required, Poorboys SSR2.5 or 2 can be used. Using a polishing pad, I work all my products at speed 5 using the same method as above. Again polish should work to haze with no left over build up. Remove with clean microfiber towel.
~ This is the point where you shift from ailment removal to paint depth and shine. Determining what is left in the paint plays a roll in what can be used here. If the paint is very clean, I really enjoy doing a coat of ClearKote Vanilla Moose with a finishing pad. If another polish is needed, I may work SSR1 or another coat of Red Moose Machine Glaze. I prefer to use Vanilla Moose Wax because it acts as a cleaner and filler, as well as a moulding and glass treatment. I essentially apply it with a finishing pad on speed 4 to the entire car. It goes on wet and comes off wet, leaving a super-deep shine. It brings life back to mouldings and rubber surrounds as well as cleaning glass very well. Remove with clean microfiber towel after application.
~ At this point I either apply a sealant or a wax depending on customer preferences and the paint of the car. On single stage paints, I typically skip the sealant and move straight to a wax. If I am applying just a sealant, I prefer to use Optimum Opti-Seal. If I am applying a sealant and coating it with wax, I prefer to use Poorboys EX-P. Either way, I apply the sealant by hand using a quality foam pad. I let the sealant sit a minimum of 20 minutes before removal. I remove with a clean microfiber towel being very gentle. It does not take a lot of sealant for it to be effective, so be very conservative with your application.
~ There are so many waxes on the market that I am always trying something new. My products of choice are ClearKote Carnauba Moose Wax, Pinnacle Souveren, or occasionally Poorboys Natty's paste wax. Pinnacle is the most expensive but the results are always outstanding. ClearKotes and Poorboys have very similar results, difference is one is a liquid and one is a paste. ClearKote I can apply faster, Poorboys I can apply more generously without negative results. Regardless I always use a quality foam pad and apply by hand. I let the results set up until the wax is dried and dusty. Using a clean microfiber towel (usually several) I buff the car to liquid glass smoothness.
~ While the wax or sealant is setting up, I clean the wheels. I prefer to use non-acidic wheel cleaners, although on occasions there is so much brake dust build up that I have to be more aggressive. Keep in mind that wheel paint takes some serious abuse, and the last thing you want to do is aid in its corrosion. I use a sheeps wool mitt or brush to clean the wheel. At the same time I also wash the wheel wells. If cleaning for a car show, it is very important that you remove the wheels and clean the backsides as well as all suspension and brake components. For wheel cleaner I usually use Adams Wheel Cleaner or a home made secret creation .

Also keep in mind that not all 'terry' cloth is terry cloth. Genuine terry cloth is expensive and the softest to use. The bag of terry cloths you can purchase from Wal-Mart and auto parts stores will do more to damage your paint then help it. Genuine terry cloth you could use for bed sheets and pillow covers...that generic stuff I wouldn't even want to dry off from the shower with.








First I would like to thanks you guys for writing this. I have google detailing many time only to be disapointed buy the lack of detail.

whakiewes in your detailing method you do not mask the car up like the OP did why is this?

Is this because you use Vanilla Moose Wax? Do you literally apply this wax over the whole car?

thanks again guys fantastic write up can't wait to do my car. So many things I was doing wrong! LOL
__________________

Last edited by Massimo; 01-11-2012 at 07:15 PM.
Massimo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2011, 07:52 PM   #39
herbivor
E30 Fanatic
 
herbivor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,420
It sounds like this can easily take an entire weekend just for the exterior. How in the hell do detailers make money if they are doing this much work? Can you guys chime in on a procedure for the interior?
herbivor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2011, 07:01 PM   #40
ill4noreason
R3VLimited
 
ill4noreason's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Baltimore MD
Posts: 2,710
thanks for all the info here gonna be doing a much needed thorough detail of my car. I will post pics before and after as i have 24 year old factory paint in pretty good shape but there are swirls and a few scratches. Do you guys pre treat carpet with hot water ammonia mix? A friend of mine in the carpet cleaning biz swears its really good. I have pretreated with 25% ammonia and 75% h20 works pretty good if you let it sit for 15 minutes scrub then put down carpet cleaner of choice. I use his machine to pull up all moisture and looks good. Any better way? Thanks
__________________
My Multi car part out. Need a part? Pm me...
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=193051

Need 24v swap parts? How about a LSD? Plastic Bumpers? Or anything else click here...
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=215044

Have you done business with me? If so leave me feedback here...
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=188307

ill4noreason is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2011, 04:04 PM   #41
Mr. Tasty
No R3VLimiter
 
Mr. Tasty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Mesa
Posts: 3,419
I have been detailing my cars since I was 16 and owned my first car (2003 EP3). I have been doing a lot of research on detailing. Here is a good diagram (very vague, I know).


complementary of Autogeek.net


Check out that forum and you will learn worlds amount of detailing skills.



Edit: Oh and I just got a 1987 eta that I will be detailing this week end. I will take before and after of the paint. Stay tuned
Mr. Tasty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2011, 11:27 PM   #42
Mr. Tasty
No R3VLimiter
 
Mr. Tasty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Mesa
Posts: 3,419
they should be fine. imo
Mr. Tasty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2011, 05:58 PM   #43
bmwstudent
E30 Fanatic
 
bmwstudent's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: not minsk
Posts: 1,363
euroshark where can i find a set of euro bumpers for my e24?
bmwstudent is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2011, 05:27 PM   #44
Simon S
No R3VLimiter
 
Simon S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 3,758
Any tips regarding polish/wax application around sun roof gasket, rubber side trim, or window/bumper trim?

Is it worth taping off?
Does wax do anything to the 'blackness' of trim?
__________________
-----Zen and the Art of e30 Maintenance - / - Zen TOC - / - Zen Summary
Simon S is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2012, 05:30 PM   #45
adept
E30 Addict
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 425
Send a message via AIM to adept
Everyone, I have been off of this forum for a very long time. Every day I have owned my e46, I have wished that I never sold my e30. Now that I'm looking into getting another e30, I'm back looking at r3vlimited of course.

Anyways, I am happy to answer anyone's questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon S View Post
Any tips regarding polish/wax application around sun roof gasket, rubber side trim, or window/bumper trim?

Is it worth taping off?
Does wax do anything to the 'blackness' of trim?
If you are talented enough with your orbital polisher, you can angle the pad just right to have the pad only contacting the paint and not any of the trim. However, this can get difficult, even for experienced people.

Polish should never stain any of the rubber or plastic trim. At least with the polishes that I have ever used, the polish should only ever clean dirt off of the trim. The downside of this is that your polishing pad/towel will get dirty very quickly. Then, you will just be scratching the paint with the dirt that was picked up.

The problem lies with wax. Wax will stain the black trim white. You can find certain waxes out there that specifically cater to making it easier on you so you don't have to avoid the trim. But, I don't like to use any of these products.

One solution is to tape off the car before you start polishing and waxing. If you are planning on spending 4+ hours detailing, it's definitely worth spending the 20 minutes on taping off the trim. Another solution is to carry a damp towel with you and be able to wipe off the wax ASAP, before it hazes or dries. Or, the last solution is to not care, wax your trim and paint with reckless abandon, and re-dye your trim when you are done with everything else.


Quote:
Originally Posted by DriverD View Post
Hey great post, I never heard of the claying product but plan to give it a try. I never really thought about it this in depth so I think I will use your model from now on. I also have a cracked windshield do have any tricks for repairing that or should I just find a indianapolis glass repair shop?
I don't have any experience with this. Every time my windshield has had a significant crack, I have had the whole windshield replaced. I have been under the impression that windshield cracks can never be fixed. Also, my insurance covers windshield replacement with no cost to me, so I have no reason not to do that.
__________________
adept is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:18 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.10
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2004 - 2020 R3VLimited LLC