Seta 2.7I build Questions

[Garageaholic]

Question Time
1. If I go bigger with the injectors will I need a stronger pump too?
2. I know for the normal eta replacing the alternator to the 90 A one is a good idea but for us seta guys do we already have one of them and same with the ignition system?
3. Would getting one of those oil cooler housings that goes up in front of the filters be a good idea or is there not much needed for cooling until boosted? And is there another way to add in an oil cooler as I don’t really want cooling lines right next to a hot manifold
4. Due to doing a mega squirt ecu what in this process changes is anything easier or harder? Should I wait on this and just do the 173 motronic 1.3 conversion?
5. Would anyone recommend going with a hotter cam that will work great both while NA and boosted or should I just buy a relatively cheap I cam?

1. Your stock pump should handle it just fine! If you go larger injectors, I would recommend tightening the door on the AFM or you'd flood the engine and carbon out the spark plugs.
2. I'd replace with 90A, P/N 12312287828. Looks like it's NLA, but any equivalent 90A alternator will do
3. Simplify the swap and go without the oil cooler for now. You can always add it later. I don't have oil cooler lines on the S62 E30 and that was designed without them. For the seta, i would say it's not necessary unless you're a tough driver and/or in exorbitantly hot weather, or of course tracking the car.
4. The motronic 1.3 has shown to be reliable, robust, and produce adequate power with a simple chip swap. I would recommend you do that, but again the MS route has been very well documented as well. I've never done MS before so can't speak to that.
5. no comment on the cam.

[Evan’s E30]

1. Your stock pump should handle it just fine! If you go larger injectors, I would recommend tightening the door on the AFM or you'd flood the engine and carbon out the spark plugs.
2. I'd replace with 90A, P/N 12312287828. Looks like it's NLA, but any equivalent 90A alternator will do
3. Simplify the swap and go without the oil cooler for now. You can always add it later. I don't have oil cooler lines on the S62 E30 and that was designed without them. For the seta, i would say it's not necessary unless you're a tough driver and/or in exorbitantly hot weather, or of course tracking the car.
4. The motronic 1.3 has shown to be reliable, robust, and produce adequate power with a simple chip swap. I would recommend you do that, but again the MS route has been very well documented as well. I've never done MS before so can't speak to that.
5. no comment on the cam.

1. Well that’s really good to know I definitely would’ve just flooded it right after building.
2. I’ll do a little more digging to see what’s in place currently but thanks for the part number now I won’t have to search for the right one
3. Yeah that’s probably a good idea as it stays pretty cool here in Washington and the car is mostly just a fun daily (not in the winter too snowy and really slidey)
4. I checked my DME and I’ve got a 15X (forget the exact number) so I’ve got a 1.1, I know that 1.1 to 1.3 is literally just swapping the DME but I just really like the ease of MS once it’s all Setup and I’d just have to buy it anyway when/if I go the turbo route.

Thanks so much for the information it really helps with the process. I’ve started ordering parts with certainty now thanks to the thread and everyone contributing. After I hear back about the hot cam I plan on starting the build as the cam and springs are now just about the only things I have left to get. The only other thing is the actual MS2 PNP System so if anyone knows how to get one for cheaper than the $800 that’s posted everywhere I’d appreciate it if you could let me know. Thank you all again and as soon as I start working on the build I’ll post a link to the thread for anyone who’s interested.

[Evan’s E30]

Car is having some issues with erratic, surging idle and bucking ride that I think is a bad TPS. When I get that sorted out, I can tell you if that cam is something you can live with. Don't know what springs are in there; they are double. Runs really well at full throttle, especially above 3K RPM. I'll get it to the dyno when it's sorted.

I agree that 4.10 in a turbo car would be a bad idea.

thank you very much and please let me know once you have everything running well how the car acts with that hot cam. Also is that one of those reground cams? If so does it still seem high quality or would you recommend going billet?

[Nader393]

thank you very much and please let me know once you have everything running well how the car acts with that hot cam. Also is that one of those reground cams? If so does it still seem high quality or would you recommend going billet?

Okay, car is running well with the new TPS. In fact, it's great. Feels really strong, but I won't know for sure until I take it to the dyno soon. The Schrick 284 cam is not a regrind. It's high quality. I don't know if it's billet, I'm not sure it matters.

It idles kind of lumpy at about 900 RPM, but I think it's fine. Never feels like it will stall. Car is well mannered at low speeds, and really comes alive over 3500 RPM. Hope that helps.

[Evan’s E30]

Okay, car is running well with the new TPS. In fact, it's great. Feels really strong, but I won't know for sure until I take it to the dyno soon. The Schrick 284 cam is not a regrind. It's high quality. I don't know if it's billet, I'm not sure it matters.

It idles kind of lumpy at about 900 RPM, but I think it's fine. Never feels like it will stall. Car is well mannered at low speeds, and really comes alive over 3500 RPM. Hope that helps.

Thank you so much, that sounds about perfect for what I want to do and I'm happy to hear that everything is running smooth for you. I'd really like to hear what power you're putting down once you take it to the dyno too.