Advice on IE trailing arm mounts?

[LateFan]

We're pulling the subframe again tomorrow to deal with the huge tire wear issue with only H&R Sport springs. We did all new bushings two years ago, so it should slide out easily I think. We'll also check for a bent arm / cracks / hole alignment.

Any advice on slotting the TA bracket holes, and locating the new slotted mounts accurately? Correct tool to cut with? Should I follow IE written directions and locate / mark the mounts for a welder, or just give him the info and hope it's accurate? I'd like to take it in to a nice historic restoration and race shop here, but I think they're weeks out with backlog.

Thanks -

[dynoclimb]

I just did this a few weeks ago with IE's new slotted mounts.

After pulling everything apart(Sub Frame out, Trailing arms off)
I tried to center the brackets over the existing hole. This is easy done for the outboard toe adjusters, I marked the openings and used a die grinder to add the slots to the Subframe side brackets.
I would suggest marking the center line of the hole vertically on the inside of the the Subframe side (where the TA goes) so you know where the original hole center goes, this will also help align the weld on brackets after you've cut the slots.
Also when cutting the slots in the subframe brackets make sure you keep it as close to the stock hole width as possible, the metal sleeve needs to maintain contact with the Subframe side brackets to work correctly.

For the Camber adjusters (inboard) you don't really get to "center" the slotted IE part to the Subframe hole as the IE slotted part is just to big. but follow the same process as above, however mark the hole center horizontally on the inside of the Subframe bracket.

Once you've slotted everything using the bolts provided and ensure that everything fits up. I would then center or align the IE brackets as you want the and tighten everything up to hold the bracket position while welding.
If you're having someone else weld this for you make sure they keep them where you've placed them. I just tacked the edges while everything was bolted up, recheck placement, pulled the hardware, and finished welded it. After its welded make sure you clean up the internal areas of the brackets from spatter and weld.
Test fit the Subframe back into the car before you reassemble it. I had some interference between the Chassis side and the Toe Adjusters. I needed the grind a 3/16" chamfer on the top side to the Toe brackets.

Test fit the TA's if you're installing them after the Subframe has been reinstalled.

Also If you're doing Subframe bushings, pay attention to which way and when you install the hardware for the TA's the Toe Adjuster fitment is really tight on the outsides next to the Subframe bushings. I also had trouble tightening the jam nuts on the Toe Adjusters because of the lack to space.

Good luck.

[LateFan]

Very useful info, thank you!

In the IE directions, early on they say to center the adjustable tab opening on the existing hole CL. Later down the page they say to put all of the adjustment hole towards the direction you want to correct, i.e. less negative camber, increase toe-IN. That gives you the entire 2.5 degrees of correction available, rather than half. What did you do there?

Are you saying the inboard / camber tabs sat too high and you couldn't center it on the existing hole? Although, if it's higher, that gives you more negative camber reduction as the trailing arm slides up.

Good heads up on checking fit against the chassis - things are tight in there where you're wrestling that mess around balanced on the jack, trying to get the big subframe mounts past the fenderwell and the front end over the driveshaft!

No new bushings, just did that. No corrosion, all came apart fairly easily with two people. (Unless you undo the side sill allen bolts before you tap out the big subframe studs and they bind up!)

Then somebody...not naming names... put the brake line fittings together with gorilla torks, and I trashed the right one getting it loose, even with the right brake line wrench. I'll replace the hard pipe - hope they're available.

[dynoclimb]

Very useful info, thank you!

In the IE directions, early on they say to center the adjustable tab opening on the existing hole CL. Later down the page they say to put all of the adjustment hole towards the direction you want to correct, i.e. less negative camber, increase toe-IN. That gives you the entire 2.5 degrees of correction available, rather than half. What did you do there?

I centered the Toe adjuster and set the camber adjuster as close to center as possible. I got the Posi-loc style and with the weld on bracket as close to the subframe tube the slot was longer than the height of the bracket. I actual back chamfered the weld on part to get it to sit further down. (Not sure if this makes sense)

Are you saying the inboard / camber tabs sat too high and you couldn't center it on the existing hole? Although, if it's higher, that gives you more negative camber reduction as the trailing arm slides up.

As far as the slot location on the camber adjuster relative to the factory hole. I would say that the factory hole was biased to the bottom 3rd. So I had adjustment for more negative camber(not needed) and plenty in the positive direction.

Good heads up on checking fit against the chassis - things are tight in there where you're wrestling that mess around balanced on the jack, trying to get the big subframe mounts past the fenderwell and the front end over the driveshaft!

I pulled the driveshaft to save that headache... I also used 3 jacks to get everything squared up on the reinstall as I had no help...
One at each attach point.

[LateFan]

Ooo, the Three Jack Method, nice!

Thanks for the help!

[LateFan]

Another question on layout before we mock this up -

How do you determine what is level, where your X & Y axes are? I'm assuming the big forward subframe studs up into the chassis floor are "vertical." That makes the bolt sleeve your Y and the round flange around that bushing should be your level, or X.

Correct?

Thanks -

[dynoclimb]

Yeah, that's right. the Outer Subframe bushings would be a good reference as they are (Should be parallel). and sit vertical.

[LateFan]

Thank you. Monday it's in to a good repair and restoration shop that knows how to do things right.

[hoveringuy]

I'm confused about one aspect of these. The IE page on these says they're adjustable with one wrench, but the photo doesn't show that the nut is welded to the serrated plate.

It looks like it still requires two wrenches, or does it?

[dynoclimb]

One plate is a thru hole, the other is tapped. The the nut is a lock nut, and you can't really get to the outboard ones...

[hoveringuy]

So why is there a lock nut if there's a tapped plate? Seems like it would be one or the other.

[dynoclimb]

Poor mans safety wire. It s a jam nut, not a lock nut per say. I could see the confusion.

[LateFan]

Yep - the "nut" is actually a threaded square plate with the serrated teeth on the back face. The teeth fit into the teeth of the u-channel shape of the new tab. The bolt threads into that flat plate and holds it in the teeth. Then there's a skinny lock nut / jamb nut on the outside of that to keep it from loosening with movement or vibration.

[LateFan]

Here's how mine turned out so far....

[dynoclimb]

Looks good. the one thing we learned when aligning it was that .070 limit of the groove interval obviously limited our increment of adjustment and then the pivoting ratios of the mounts... So you get really fine adjustments in Camber and the opposite in Toe...
Although we're talking small amounts. We got it all close enough that I can't tell...