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    Mechanic/Shop Recommendation: Seattle

    R3V Homies -

    I'm hoping to get a recommendation from you guys for a shop in the Puget Sound region to diagnose a long, ongoing (odd) issue my car has.

    The issue: at moderate/heavy to wide open throttle my car will often choke, cut out, and then come back to life after a split second or two above 4k RPM's. The revs completely die off, and then it jolts back to life pretty hard. I've had several, (what I deem to be) knowledgable M20 folks drive and diagnose the issue and no on has been able to figure it out. The CEL does come on when it cuts for that split second or two, then vanishes. Some time ago we tried doing a stomp test which came back as a fuel pump issue IIRC. We swapped a different fuel pump with no change.


    Some quick details on what I'm working with:
    • Super ETA "Stroker" M20 with a refreshed "i" cylinder head and all suppoting components (intake manifold, AFM, throttle body, ICV, 173 SSSQuid chipped Bosch 173 DME)
    • The car had the same, unique issue before the "i" cylinder head upgrade
    • Bosch 1.3 Motronic engine management (even replaced the engine wiring harness)
    • 19# 4 pintle injectors
    • All new ignition components (Ignition coil, plugs, wires, distributor cap, spark plugs etc.)
    • New fuel pressure regulator
    • New throttle position sensor
    • New crankshaft position sensor
    • I've tested four different AFM's, and three different 173 ECU's, all have zero effect on this issue




    I've heard good things about Accuracty Automotive in Gig Harbor, however it is really tough for me to get down there with a newborn at home.

    As mentioned, this has been a tough issue to diagnose, with several local folks giving it their best effort. Does anyone have a recommendation?
    1988 325 Lachs Sedan SOLD

    1989 325i Bronzit Beige 2 Door
    SOLD

    2018 Volkswagen Alltrack SE DSG
    Past:1988 325iS Lachs 5 Speed

    #2
    Don Jerko’s Repair and Performance if you want to travel to Anacortes, I will get you sorted out.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by e30josh View Post
      Don Jerko’s Repair and Performance if you want to travel to Anacortes, I will get you sorted out.
      Just checked out your guys FaceBook page. I'm impressed! I'll call later today to schedule something. Looks like I can take an Uber from your shop to the Mount Vernon Amtrak station to get back to Seattle.
      1988 325 Lachs Sedan SOLD

      1989 325i Bronzit Beige 2 Door
      SOLD

      2018 Volkswagen Alltrack SE DSG
      Past:1988 325iS Lachs 5 Speed

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks man! I look forward to working with you on your car, we don’t advertise much but your situation sounds right up our alley.

        Comment


          #5
          random old thread bump, but did this issue ever get resolved? having the exact same issue with a car in for service. every single issue is the same, and the list of parts replaced is exactly the same, with no change.
          '72 2002 pickup | '88 M5 | '89 330is | '89 M3 | '01 Z3M | '11 328xi-t

          Comment


            #6
            I had a similar, maybe even the same problem.

            I refreshed an m20 and this bucking/cutting out under heavy load, especially at highway speeds was due to a fouled plug. I had just changed the plugs, so I overlooked it, but an injector was leaking and caused it to foul up in a few hundred miles.

            Also, I've dealt with similar symptoms with the obvious CPS, but a wire has hanging on by one single strand of copper inside the insulation and when the engine would jiggle under load, it would cause it to buck.

            With that being said, I would also check out the harness side of the CPS, sometimes those fuckers are routed incorrectly and they become so tight.

            IDK what you've done diagnostic wise, but you probably already know, but maybe it was overlooked.. do your AFM resistor sweeps and make sure the signal doesn't drop off across certain parts, c101 and blah blah..



            I remember kershaw had a thread where he was dealing with this for ever and I think he remedied it by going standalone LOL
            Originally posted by wholepailofwater
            Q
            :devil:


            WTB: Dove Grey e36 Front Door Panels (2 door)

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by MrBurgundy View Post
              I had a similar, maybe even the same problem.

              I refreshed an m20 and this bucking/cutting out under heavy load, especially at highway speeds was due to a fouled plug. I had just changed the plugs, so I overlooked it, but an injector was leaking and caused it to foul up in a few hundred miles.

              Also, I've dealt with similar symptoms with the obvious CPS, but a wire has hanging on by one single strand of copper inside the insulation and when the engine would jiggle under load, it would cause it to buck.

              With that being said, I would also check out the harness side of the CPS, sometimes those fuckers are routed incorrectly and they become so tight.

              IDK what you've done diagnostic wise, but you probably already know, but maybe it was overlooked.. do your AFM resistor sweeps and make sure the signal doesn't drop off across certain parts, c101 and blah blah..



              I remember kershaw had a thread where he was dealing with this for ever and I think he remedied it by going standalone LOL
              this one cuts out at exactly 4k RPM, only at WOT, and only every two out of ten times. it's a hard electrical cut, the tach stays solid, so i don't necessarily think it's losing crank signal, but maybe like injectors are losing signal. it's definitely electrical and not fuel starvation. everyone that's looked at the car is baffled. myself included.

              new OE coolant temp sensor
              new OE crank position sensor
              new Bosch WR8DC plugs
              new Bremi cap/rotor
              new Mahle fuel filter
              new Mahle air filter
              new Tyco main power relay
              new Tyco fuel pump relay
              adjusted AFM
              swapped DME
              swapped AFM
              swapped ignition coil and gave a jumper wire to the hot side in case it was somehow losing 12v signal
              swapped unloader relays and confirmed all fuses were good
              unhooked TPS
              unhooked oxygen sensor
              cleaned c191 thoroughly, applied dielectric grease, inspected for broken wires or wear
              cleaned TPS connector thoroughly as it was full of oil

              rapidly running out of options. i am planning to try a new fuel pump and TPS next.
              '72 2002 pickup | '88 M5 | '89 330is | '89 M3 | '01 Z3M | '11 328xi-t

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by e30austin View Post

                this one cuts out at exactly 4k RPM, only at WOT, and only every two out of ten times. it's a hard electrical cut, the tach stays solid, so i don't necessarily think it's losing crank signal, but maybe like injectors are losing signal. it's definitely electrical and not fuel starvation. everyone that's looked at the car is baffled. myself included.

                new OE coolant temp sensor
                new OE crank position sensor
                new Bosch WR8DC plugs
                new Bremi cap/rotor
                new Mahle fuel filter
                new Mahle air filter
                new Tyco main power relay
                new Tyco fuel pump relay
                adjusted AFM
                swapped DME
                swapped AFM
                swapped ignition coil and gave a jumper wire to the hot side in case it was somehow losing 12v signal
                swapped unloader relays and confirmed all fuses were good
                unhooked TPS
                unhooked oxygen sensor
                cleaned c191 thoroughly, applied dielectric grease, inspected for broken wires or wear
                cleaned TPS connector thoroughly as it was full of oil

                rapidly running out of options. i am planning to try a new fuel pump and TPS next.
                Hey Austin,
                I took the car up to Don Jerkos (e30josh). He replaced a main fuse and some other odds and ends. It rectified the issue for a short amount of time. I also replaced the wiring harness from a known good car. I got frustrated with it after dumping endless amounts of money at the issue. The car now lives in Indiana.
                1988 325 Lachs Sedan SOLD

                1989 325i Bronzit Beige 2 Door
                SOLD

                2018 Volkswagen Alltrack SE DSG
                Past:1988 325iS Lachs 5 Speed

                Comment


                  #9
                  A Chinese idle air control valve caused this problem on my 1987 325i. A new German Bosch solved it. It did not set the check engine light but one day I checked for codes anyway. Sure enough, the codes pointed to a bad ICV. Well a year and 5 months later, the car started doing it again. I started inspecting resistance and voltage associated with the ICV. Turns out I have some wires rubbing somewhere as now it cranks and does not start. Harness looks real twisted under the intake by the firewall. Going to check that out. Just my 2 cents.

                  Comment

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