School me on upgrading cams.

[Wasefi]

Alright guys, I have a completely stock s52 thats waiting for me to swap into my car but wanted to know a little more about swapping the cams for SunBelt Stage 2 cams. One of the forum members can re-grind the stock set of cams to sunbelt stage 2 cams.

These are the specs for the cams via bimmerworld

INTAKE
Gross Lift .422 inch
Dur @ .004 (Hyd Lash) 280 deg.
Dur @ .050 Lift 236.6 deg.
EXHAUST
Gross Lift .420 inch
Dur @ .004 (Hyd Lash) 272 deg.
Dur @ .050 Lift 227.4 deg.


My question is, is it possible to retain all stock parts on the s52 and slap these on?

Sorry for being a noob, but I tried looking up already and couldn't find my answer.

[Bimmerman325i]

No. You need to do valve springs, bigger injectors, tune, and limit vanos travel to prevent piston contact due to the higher lift. If limiting vanos rubs you the wrong way (i.e. losing all your low end torque), then the other option is high-relief pistons.

That's not even mentioning that this is pointless unless you have LTW flywheel, fully decorked intake (incl. M50 manifold and a real ~75mm BBTB), good headers, and full 3" exhaust. Nearly all tunes you can buy will also require 3.5" MAF. Then, once you get all that stuff bolted on, you will make 270-280whp depending on header choice. It's a great setup, but it won't idle for shit nor pass emissions.

Unless you're willing to drop the serious cash required, and don't need to worry about emissions compliance, just run Shricks and call it a day.

[Bmjpv]

Cam upgrade ?

What shrick is a good upgrade from the s52 ob 1 ?

[berlow94]

I recommend Schrick 256/264. im running them on my high comp. S52 build. Wiseco high comp. pistons, Supertech valve springs and Ti retainer's, oversized valves, 5 angle valve grind, fancy headers, 3 inch track exhaust to a borla xr-1 muff. m50 intake manifold, #24 (soon to be #30) injectors, VAC 75mm TB, 12lb flywheel, all being run by a Vipec standalone ECU. If these cams are good enough for me to reliably put 285 to the ground then they should be good enough for you ;) Honestly i have no interest in putting in crazy hot cams or deleting/limiting vanos. If i wanted crazy hot cams i would have built a M50NV or something that didnt have it from factory. IMO vanos is part of what gives this motor its personality. Taking it away is like asking your gf to get a boob reduction... Again thats me personally. BTW this is a full built track car.

[berlow94]

And just common sense with engines in general. Any cam replacement thats hotter then factory, you should be checking the wear on your valve springs at the very least.

[Wasefi]

No. You need to do valve springs, bigger injectors, tune, and limit vanos travel to prevent piston contact due to the higher lift. If limiting vanos rubs you the wrong way (i.e. losing all your low end torque), then the other option is high-relief pistons.

That's not even mentioning that this is pointless unless you have LTW flywheel, fully decorked intake (incl. M50 manifold and a real ~75mm BBTB), good headers, and full 3" exhaust. Nearly all tunes you can buy will also require 3.5" MAF. Then, once you get all that stuff bolted on, you will make 270-280whp depending on header choice. It's a great setup, but it won't idle for shit nor pass emissions.

Unless you're willing to drop the serious cash required, and don't need to worry about emissions compliance, just run Shricks and call it a day.

Ok, I was under the impression that with this cam set up (Sunbelt S2) that you can get a away with stock vanos and stock valvetrain. Although, I do have:

Light weight flywheel
21.5 injectors
M50 manifold
Dr.Vanos stage 1
TRM chip(will send out to re flash to support the mods)
Raceland long tube headers
Walbro 288 lph fuel pump

Just discovered last night that I need to replace my hydraulic valves.

But I really want to avoid spending money on the valves itself.

[mitchlevy7]

you mean hydraulic lifters? Yea there really not cheap, especially when you need 24 of them. i think there like 25 each from turner. Theres also different size lifters across the 24v motors.

those specs are gonna kill your bottom end and limiting your vanos travel will hurt it more. I would go with a more mild cam unless you are doing a full motor build.

[Wasefi]

Ok, I was under the impression that with this cam set up (Sunbelt S2) that you can get a away with stock vanos and stock valvetrain. Although, I do have:

Light weight flywheel
21.5 injectors
M50 manifold
Dr.Vanos stage 1
TRM chip(will send out to re flash to support the mods)
Raceland long tube headers
Walbro 288 lph fuel pump

Just discovered last night that I need to replace my hydraulic valves.

But I really want to avoid spending money on the valves itself.

** lifters.

[Wasefi]

Just contacted Bimmerworld since they were one of the places that sold the Sunbelt Stage 2 sport cams and they said that stock pistons/valves/lifters are retained with the cam. But if one were get the stage 3 RACE cams then upgraded valvetrain are needed without a doubt.

[Wasefi]

http://store.bimmerworld.com/mobile/sunbelt-e36-m3-stage-2-sport-cams-p604.aspx

[matthugie]

I'm not sure if the 21.5# injectors would be up to the task. M y guess is that you would need to jump to 24#, and to get the full gains you probably would need a 3.5" intake setup as well. Whether this is worth it you should probably state what your plans for the car are. Trust me, the car will be plenty quick even without cams.

[Wasefi]

Anyone else have any input on this?

[Bimmerman325i]

It really depends WHICH sunbelt 'stage 2' you're talking about. The Sunbelts sold in the Bimmerworld OBD2 kit do not require different valvetrain (but unless timing is spot on, vanos should be shimmed) but the other Sunbelt Stg2 cams definitely should have the upgraded valvetrain even though they are not the RACE cams. They make meaty power when you are able to run them with vanos, but it's hard to get them timed right so that they don't contact pistons.

Remember though, the valvetrain mods I'm talking about are retainers and springs, all the above setups use factory pistons/valves/lifters. If you're replacing the lifters anyway it's not a bad time to go ahead and do the springs/retainers as well since you've done nearly all the work required to access them.

your supporting mods are good, and I have no doubt TRM can tune it, but you NEED the 24lb injectors at a minimum, and nearly all tunes will require a 3.5" maf unless you're doing custom. With cams, the 3.5" does make more power in the last 1000rpms than the 3" (hell, it does on stock cams to a lesser degree). Headers are good for power, but you will want a large exhaust after them for sure. Fuel pump is irrelevant, stock will work just fine.

[rneedham1979]

I ran a stock intake cam with a schrick exhaust with good success. Both of which are currently for sale.

[Wasefi]

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I am getting ready to pull the trigger and wanted to check from the last time I posted on here if anyone has ran these cams yet.