N52 Swap

[nando]

The good news being the crank still has a machined spot for a pilot bearing. Buts its probably easiest to just use a matching trans - its better anyway. The only reason I'm not it I'm using it with an ix.

[ForcedFirebird]

Yes, that's what i'm using...the 6 speed. It requires a custom driveshaft, which is essentially a z4 front, and an e36 M3 automatic rear. Then the shift carrier and selector rod need to be shortened. There are a few threads on the details.

I'm doing a 6 speed e30 swap right now and used the 325i stock manual g260shaft, modified. I turned the three prong yoke off a big giubo shaft, turned a step in it so it would press into the cut off front half of the shaft. TIG welded it matching the orientation of the three prongs before it was cut. This way the stock e30 CSB works.

The e36 shaft works, but the CSB has to go on backwards and is kinda a pain to service later. Modified shafts this way in the past and they never gave an issue.

[wazzu70]

The good news being the crank still has a machined spot for a pilot bearing. Buts its probably easiest to just use a matching trans - its better anyway. The only reason I'm not it I'm using it with an ix.

Yeah, being an ix makes it a lot more difficult for you!

I agree using the 6spd makes a lot more sense. Newer trans, another gear, actually made to work with the flywheel/clutch. Might even have a better shift feel, I haven't driven one!

[hoveringuy]

Nando, I don't want to distract from Chris's swap, but can you post a few pics of the N52 in your IX?

[cwlo]

Firebird, your approach is definitely the better way to go. It also has the u-joint on the front half of the driveshaft, rather than right behind the csb on the 2nd half like mine. Seems like it would be less likely to vibrate.

My driveshaft had a slight vibration in 2nd when I was running the M54, that I hope to fix with the N52 swap by looking carefully over the alignment of the trans to differential. Rebuilding the driveshaft, new csb, guibo all helped, but never eliminated it.

Chris

[nando]

Nando, I don't want to distract from Chris's swap, but can you post a few pics of the N52 in your IX?

haha, sure:


;)

the M20 is still running and driving - so to avoid a fight over the car, I'm keeping it that way until I'm ready to drop it in and start it up. It seems like every 2-3 months we need a 3rd car for whatever reason and the E30 is always there.. :)

[cwlo]

Been working on a bunch of different things. Engine and trans are back in car, and am working on putting it all back together.

Coolant/heating hoses
Trans/Driveshaft re-assembly
Exhaust setup
and other small things.

Was putting stuff back together, and then hit two issues:

1. N52 has two different valve covers over the years. The earlier magnesium, and later plastic. Well, they changed the wiring harness hold down setup with each, so I will need to source a later wiring harness to work properly with the later plastic valve cover I have. Seemed too different to try and make it work.

2. Was putting the steering rack back in, and it hits the oil pan! So, pan needs to come back out, and needs to be clearanced for the steering rack where the round assembly that hooks into the shaft coupler resides.

3. Rad hose setup is tight! The e30 is a bit narrower, and the frame rail resides just adjacent to where the N52 thermostat is. I think I can get it all to work, but I needed to remove the indexing tabs on the newer plastic hose ends so that I can rotate them to the best position for everything to work.

4. Exhaust looks fairly straightforward. I decided to go with an N52 AA header setup, which fits nicely. Then a 135i middle section, which also looks like it will work with minimal adjustments. Finally, will v-band the end of the 135i middle, and fab a pipe to go to a good sized muffler in back.

Well that's it for now. Moving ahead little by little.

[nando]

I'd be interested in seeing the thermostat clearance. Also, what's your clearance to the radiator? Are you using an M20 radiator or something else? I'm thinking Z3 M.

[cwlo]

Pic loses the depth perception, but the lower radiator hose will be tight. I removed the index tabs on the plastic fitting, which will allow me to rotate to the best position. The elbow I am using is actually a 80-85 degree (angle) so it points it a little up and back from the radiator. I will just need a hose with a 90 and slight offset to work. This will not allow me to use the stock lower rad sensor, so I will have to see if I can get something together for that.

Heater/exp tank hose outlet on the thermostat is pointed right at the frame rail. So a 90 pointing up should work, and then I will need to splice a tee into it to branch over to the heating pipe.

I am using an e30 radiator, and so it doesn't have the push on fitting receptacle like the e90 would. Hasn't been a problem yet as far as getting everything to fit, although if present, would probably allow the stock sensor in the lower rad hose, and an easier upper rad hose setup. Just don't think anything more modern than an e36 rad will fit the e30 from what I've seen. Anyway, looks like I can make it all work with what I've got.

Nando, a thicker rad like the Z3M would make that lower rad hose an even tighter bend....would be close.

[nando]

Couldn't you just mount the thermostat differently it's not so close? it's bolted to the pump normally, but I don't see why it necessarily has to be - you'd just need different hoses to connect it to the pump & block. that looks really close to me.

You'd probably want to keep it low (I think it's placed there because it makes bleeding easier), but otherwise I think there's some freedom to mount it differently.

[cwlo]

You can really only go back about a 1/4"; any more and you will hit the water pump outlet. Other close areas are also limited, with the Ac compressor above, and the hose/steel elbow off the engine in back. So either a completely new location with all new hoses, or the approach I'm going. Looking at the front space between the rad and the thermostat with elbow attached like I've got it, there's about 1/2" clearance, so I think it will work fine. Just "modern car" clearances.

[nando]

Yeah it looked closer in the pic - I agree 1/2" should be plenty.

[CobraMarty]

Just found you guys here.
Great site.
Sweet project here. I didn't know. My son wants to do this same thing.

My machinist is very good. If you want more of those flywheels, I am sure he can make them. He is very reasonable.
Is that a stock 'bolt on' ring gear? Off what? Is it welded on?

Interested in the N52 swap DMEs. Are they stock made to 'stand alone'?
Need the harness modified?

I have two N52 swap DME's going out today (thanks for your patience) - can't wait to see some progress!

Also, maybe you can convince RHD to make more of these -


I think he said it's ~7lbs (stock is like 38 or something silly). I actually got it by a total fluke - they don't make a flywheel with a 6 bolt pattern, but their shop accidentally made this one which fits my application exactly (N52 with Getrag 260). Actually without this part, my ix/N52 swap would have been completely impossible - there are light flywheels for the N52, but they only work with the N52 transmission (pilot bearing in the flywheel instead of the crank).

It needs paired with the ATI damper for harmonics reasons, but I can't wait to get this thing in the car..

[nando]

Sweet! Well I can definitely help with the swap tuning stuff. :)

The DME is modified to run standalone yes (just programming, nothing physical). You'd definitely have to do a bit of wiring, but it's really not all that different than a regular E30 swap. I'd use a Z4 harness (the DME is coded based on a Z4) - but any MSV70 based N52 harness should work with modifications.

the ring gear is part of the flywheel - it's machined of one solid piece of steel. It's really impressive work - RHD in Australia made it (or had it made for them in Aus).

[TheAxiom]

Looks like it's a party in here.