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OK... New AFM and runs better, but builds up after warm...

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    OK... New AFM and runs better, but builds up after warm...

    So, I was getting this weird bog when taking off in any gear. Sometimes, when warm, it would bog up and you could smell fuel like it was too much.


    I went and got a good used AFM. I installed it and it fired right up and honestly, was MUCH better on acceleration and even showed better MPGs based on the meter on the dash.


    One difference and maybe note worthy was that when I would down shift, blipping the throttle would work when before with the old AFM, it did not.



    Thing runs like a scalded dog at first and down the freeway great!


    Then it warms up a tad and when I get to a light, she starts acting like she is bogging down and loading up. I will accelerate or add RPMs and she is burbing and blowing a lot of black or seems to be really rich. Once she cools down, she is fine again.


    The ICV has been replaced, the new (used off a running car) AFM and only thing not stock is that the canister is vented open from the tank as opposed to the throttle body. The valve cover vent tube is removed and open and the inlet on the throttle body is capped. These last two things done by the previous owner.


    Has new plugs, recent wires.


    The AFM did have the adjustment screw plug off. I turned it in full and was three turns out. I put it back to the same setup and still persists.


    I do not think it is a vacuum leak, but will try that. I would think a vacuum leak would show itself immediately. It wouldn't eventually clean out after throttle input.


    Just trying to track this down because when it is running fine, it is a killer. She runs great!!!


    Maybe I am too far out on the adjustment screw? Maybe it needs that connection to the valve cover? Could the hose to the canister from the tank be clogged or not allowing breathing out? Cap on the tank doesn't have pressure when running...

    #2
    Try checking engine ground and distributer. Sounds like you’re having trouble getting spark. Does it misfire when it bogs?
    _____________________________________________
    1987 325

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Lizard 1 View Post

      The ICV has been replaced, the new (used off a running car) AFM and only thing not stock is that the canister is vented open from the tank as opposed to the throttle body. The valve cover vent tube is removed and open and the inlet on the throttle body is capped. These last two things done by the previous owner.
      Have you ever had it run properly with this setup?

      I don't quite understand what was done here, but i would put everything back to OEM if you have never had it run properly.

      No point chasing your tail when the problem could be due to whatever mess the previous owner has created.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by RoyalW/BlauCheese View Post
        Try checking engine ground and distributer. Sounds like you’re having trouble getting spark. Does it misfire when it bogs?



        When it bogs, it is acting like it is getting too much fuel. Black smoke and dieseling. I checked the grounds and cleaned them when I was working on a few things. I will check the dist cap.

        Comment


          #5
          Check fuel pressure, just to rule it out.
          While mildly unsafe, a gauge you can watch
          while the car is driving is invaluable.

          Then make sure you have the right injectors...

          hth,

          t
          now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by TobyB View Post
            Check fuel pressure, just to rule it out.
            While mildly unsafe, a gauge you can watch
            while the car is driving is invaluable.

            Then make sure you have the right injectors...

            hth,

            t

            The injectors are stock. Now, the fuel pump on the driver's side has been replaced. It whines like crazy, but I would think should it be the fuel pump or pumps, it would be constant and not at lower RPMs and at start up to have to clean itself out.


            Now, I havent rules out the injectors need cleaned, but again, I have had clogged injectors and they act up throughout the rev range.

            Comment


              #7
              Guy on another page suggested the O2 sensor he had replaced and was causing a similar issue. Says he unplugged and it ran fine. Just light on the dash. I am going to try that, but does anyone see value that it could be that?

              Comment


                #8
                Sooooo... The O2 sensor did make a difference. I simply unplugged it and the car started MUCH better and ran great. Until I got off the freeway after maybe 50 miles and once she sat and idled at a few lights and such, she acted like she was loading up again. Once I got out of town and back on the freeway, she cleaned out. Again, until back into town and she started to load up again.

                The way I could tell she was loaded was on downshifts, I blip the throttle to match and if cleared up, she will blip easily. If she is loaded up, she doesn't.

                Doesn't die and I can gently give it gas and she will pull to accelerate. Albeit, she will stumble and burp until higher RPMs.

                This is cold, warm, whatever... Temp doesn't seem to impact it...

                Comment


                  #9
                  Should I try and loop the O2 sensor to trick the system to think it is active or will that cause more issues vs leaving unplugged?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    The O2 sensor is there for a reason. How old is your O2 sensor? If it is old, replace it.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      So, it isn't the O2 sensor. I unplugged it and it is still loading up. I think maybe the TPS or the thermo sensor (Blue two prong) is bad. It idles for any time and it starts to load up. You can stomp the pedal and get it to clear and will run fine for a while, but then loads up once you idle at all... You also smell fuel a lot...

                      Comment


                        #12

                        The ICV has been replaced, the new (used off a running car) AFM and only thing not stock is that the canister is vented open from the tank as opposed to the throttle body. The valve cover vent tube is removed and open and the inlet on the throttle body is capped. These last two things done by the previous owner.
                        Have you ever had it run properly with this setup?

                        I don't quite understand what was done here, but i would put everything back to OEM if you have never had it run properly.

                        No point chasing your tail when the problem could be due to whatever mess the previous owner has created.
                        ??????

                        also STOP BUYING PARTS.

                        get out the Bently manual with a multi meter and check every sensor and see if it is within spec. That is AFM, Air temp, water, temp, o2 sensor and CAS.

                        Make sure the injectors are the right ones for the car. people around here have a habit of putting in large injectors with no tuning for no reason and calling it an upgrade.

                        Comment

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