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Old 06-01-2019, 07:28 AM   #61
bmwman91
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The cam gears' bolts should be centered in the slots when the cams are in their TDC position. That can only be accomplished with the chain on the exact right link. Now, with that said, you'll still likely need to do some tweaking after the initial alignment. Get everything as TDC-looking as possible, and then turn the engine 2 revolutions by hand/wrench, and re-check. Adjust the cams as needed and repeat once more. It is possible to get all of the slack out of the sections on the first try, but I have always found that doing at least one turn-and-repeat has allowed me to correct 0.5-1 degree of error that appears after cycling it.
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Old 06-01-2019, 04:28 PM   #62
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The cam gears' bolts should be centered in the slots when the cams are in their TDC position. That can only be accomplished with the chain on the exact right link. Now, with that said, you'll still likely need to do some tweaking after the initial alignment. Get everything as TDC-looking as possible, and then turn the engine 2 revolutions by hand/wrench, and re-check. Adjust the cams as needed and repeat once more. It is possible to get all of the slack out of the sections on the first try, but I have always found that doing at least one turn-and-repeat has allowed me to correct 0.5-1 degree of error that appears after cycling it.
That is super helpful, thank you! Should I torque the cams down while the head is off, or bolt the head on then cams? TIS says the valves need about 15 min after torqueing the cams down so the lifters retract.
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Old 06-01-2019, 04:50 PM   #63
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I would do it with the head off, but it probably doesn't matter.
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Old 06-01-2019, 09:34 PM   #64
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I would do it with the head off, but it probably doesn't matter.
I just didn't know if torquing them with the head off would mess with the straightness of the head. but it seems like the best option for guaranteeing that the crank is at TDC before dropping the head on with the cams at TDC.
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Old 06-02-2019, 07:49 AM   #65
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Any shop that resurfaces an assembled head will dis/reassemble it on a bench, so no worries there.

If you have a stock flywheel you can lock it at TDC with an 8mm pin or bolt through a port in the block under the starter. I don't have a stock one, so I use a rod through a spark plug hole and some calipers to set the position at TDC based on the stroke length.
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Old 06-02-2019, 01:27 PM   #66
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Any shop that resurfaces an assembled head will dis/reassemble it on a bench, so no worries there.

If you have a stock flywheel you can lock it at TDC with an 8mm pin or bolt through a port in the block under the starter. I don't have a stock one, so I use a rod through a spark plug hole and some calipers to set the position at TDC based on the stroke length.
I have the pin, but the flywheel will be off when it's on the engine stand
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Old 06-02-2019, 03:19 PM   #67
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Got it. You could use the alignment marks on the oil filter housing (a big arrow in the casting) and the 60-2 toothed damper wheel. There is a notch in one of the teeth that the arrow points at. It is, IMO, useless with the engine in the car since you can't look straight at it, but on a stand it should be handy.
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Old 06-03-2019, 12:50 PM   #68
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Got it. You could use the alignment marks on the oil filter housing (a big arrow in the casting) and the 60-2 toothed damper wheel. There is a notch in one of the teeth that the arrow points at. It is, IMO, useless with the engine in the car since you can't look straight at it, but on a stand it should be handy.
Thanks, I saw the notch on the tooth of the 2nd gen motor I have, and I agree it's hard to tell if it's lined up, in or out of the car. I'll be starting to pull the engine out of the car next Monday. I hope to share some pictures!
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Old 06-17-2019, 08:52 PM   #69
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Project was put on hold for some work on the Z4 I have, it desperately needed strut top mounts and the short springs made it a pain to do. Just started preparations for pulling the engine and trans today. Head came out great, passed pressure test, and was machined flat.


First, some more of the cylinder 1 carnage now that I got the crank and pistons out on the E36 block:


Freshly machined head from the E36 block. It is now fully assembled and cams locked for when I put everything back together.


ZERO pitting on the profile gasket area, much better than the head that's in the car:


Valves look really good, three of the four look like this, but cylinder one has a little more carbon build up. Not sure why


Cylinder 1


Intakes out:


Exhaust out:


I decided to pull the intakes and set the wiring up on the windshield, for anyone digging through this thread, I find this easier than pulling the wiring through the firewall, and allows easier access to the lift points on the engine, especially in the rear. This also allows you to put the throttle body off to the side instead of disconnecting the throttle cable. I recommend labeling the two coolant temp senders and the oil pressure sensor wiring, they are relatively in the same location, and use similar connectors.


Mostly there in the engine bay.



Turns out I was wearing my favorite shirt when I started taking stuff apart!
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Old 06-17-2019, 09:17 PM   #70
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Also, these are the timing marks at TDC. You can see them clearly without the alternator in the way, basically, you want to look at it from such an angle that the arrow appears straight.

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Old 06-18-2019, 12:02 AM   #71
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I need that shirt in my life. Where did you get it?
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Old 06-18-2019, 12:17 PM   #72
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I need that shirt in my life. Where did you get it?
blipshift.com they only sell a design for 48 hrs though. I bought two last time it was available. Sometimes they bring back designs.

Found it! https://www.blipshift.com/products/l...-to-temptation
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Old 06-18-2019, 12:53 PM   #73
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Ha, thanks! If it ever comes back, I am all over it.
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Old 06-18-2019, 04:17 PM   #74
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Ha, thanks! If it ever comes back, I am all over it.
Be careful with that website, I have probably 40-50 of their shirts. What size do you wear? I have a bunch I don't wear anymore because they're too big, since you're local I'd be happy to give a few to you for all the help!

Motor's out, now it's just a waiting game on parts from Pelican.


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Old 06-20-2019, 11:33 PM   #75
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I'm going to remove the A/C compressor and power steering. Any idea what length bolt to replace the one going through the lower timing cover that doubles for the A/C bracket?
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