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91 318is suspension upgrade advice

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    91 318is suspension upgrade advice

    I have a 1991 318is with 103k miles. Say with a budget of $1500ish, what are some suspension upgrades I should do to improve handling, yet still maintain a reasonably decent ride?

    I do not want to lower the car. I use it for delivery driving so I'm not willing to give up any ground clearance.

    #2
    - H&R OE Sport Springs w/ Bilstein Sport shocks (1"-1.3" drop, you will never have problems with this drop)
    - M3 offset control arm bushings & new control arms
    - new tierods
    - IE subframe and trailing arm urethane bushings (not harsh at all)
    - new swaybar bushings and links
    - E46 rear shock mounts
    ~ Go Canucks Go! ~

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      #3
      Ive got a '91 318is as well, not too much done to the suspension and i drive it daily, including snow, and it handels great!

      To make it better:
      H&R Sport Springs
      Bilstein Sport Shocks
      OE M3 Offset contol arm bushings [dont buy this stupid eyeball arms]
      M3 Rear sway bar [made a huge difference! HUGE]
      Hartge Front Strurt brace [didnt notice much, but it made it understeer in slow speed corners

      While your at it id suggest a few more things to be replaced.
      Control arms
      Strut bearings [front]
      Shock mounts[rear]
      Brake lines[SS lines are nice]
      Swaybar links[tighten up everything, replace with OE]
      Subframe bushings [nice to do while your at it, takes a bit of work]


      Originally posted by vlad
      Do you know anybody else who built that many bad ass E30s?

      Comment


        #4
        Sway bars-yeah.

        The best thing you can do for an E30 that is mainly driven on the street is better bars and mounts. It rides just as good when you're cruising, turns in better, and loses some of that god awful body roll without going to buckboard city.

        Comment


          #5
          well my 318is is a dd and its lowered....you should really consider it. The Korman Clubman suspension Kit is about $1500 and it comes w/ shocks, springs, sways, bushings and some other things....BTW when I get some more cash thats the kit I'm going w/.
          ///Alpinweiß II 24v 91' 318is, Alpinweiß III 99' 323i, 04' Yamaha R6 SE for sale, 00' VW GTi, 83' El Camino BURNED, 01' P71sold, 92' Miatasold

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            #6
            if underneath your car your bushings and what not are still in tact....with that kind of cash you could pick up a set of coilovers with still enough to pick up bars and sorts......that way....adjustability is at you convenience....

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Joe318is
              To make it better:
              H&R Sport Springs
              Bilstein Sport Shocks
              OE M3 Offset contol arm bushings [dont buy this stupid eyeball arms]

              While your at it id suggest a few more things to be replaced.
              Control arms
              - tie rod assemblies -
              Strut bearings [front]
              Shock mounts[rear]
              Brake lines[SS lines are nice]
              Swaybar links[tighten up everything, replace with OE]
              - sway bar bushings -
              - trailing arm bushings -
              - IE Subframe bushings
              <- soon to install everything on the above [edited]* list.

              Concerned about need for camber plates and/or other alignment corrective kits.

              Will/would such modifications require them ?

              I’m under the impression that many 'get away' with it while mildly compromising tire wear.
              True?

              If true, what are recommended cost-effective corrective measures?

              Notes: considering using thicker rear spring pads to offset lack of rear adjustability. / I’ve noticed that ~90% of vehicles I see on road have visible rear negative camber. Assume that such ‘visible’ negative camber on front wheels is less desirable on a street-driven car. Is there allowable OE adjustment for front camber?

              I’d rather ask dumb questions and know better, than not know better and do something dumb.. so any input is really appreciated.


              *(excluded M3 rear sway bar & front strut brace) (added: tie rods, OE sway bar & trailing arm bushings) (also going with IE urethane subframe bushings)
              -----Zen and the Art of e30 Maintenance - / - Zen TOC - / - Zen Summary

              Comment


                #8
                If you're sticking with OE sway bar, why would you need to replace the bar with a new one? (Is that what you were going to do? Didnt' quite understand your last sentence).
                Vancouver Portrait Photographer

                E30 M3 Wallpapers

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by MikesJo
                  If you're sticking with OE sway bar, why would you need to replace the bar with a new one? (Is that what you were going to do? Didnt' quite understand your last sentence).
                  “(added: tie rods, OE sway bar & trailing arm bushings)”

                  - replacing all sway bar bushings & trailing arm bushings – my bad
                  -----Zen and the Art of e30 Maintenance - / - Zen TOC - / - Zen Summary

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I just added a IC front sway bar, something like 22mm. 15 bucks from a yard near have to get used to it and adjust tire pressures, but as of now the turn in feels a bit better and the body roll is reduced enough that i can tell


                    Originally posted by vlad
                    Do you know anybody else who built that many bad ass E30s?

                    Comment

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