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Is $1900 to do the rear SubFrame bushings a ridiculous amount?

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    #31
    in both cases, it is helpful to use a lot of lube.....also....(no homo)
    sigpic
    Gigitty Gigitty!!!!

    88 cabrio becoming alpina b6 3.5s transplanted s62
    92 Mtech 2 cabrio alpinweiss 770 code
    88 325ix coupe manual lachsilber/cardinal
    88 325ix coupe manual diamondschwartz/natur
    87 e30 m3 for parts lachsilber/cardinal(serial number 7)
    12 135i M sport cabrio grey/black

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      #32
      There's the easy way and the hard way to replace the rear subframe bushings.

      With the correct tool, its not even an hour job, without its a matter of either dropping the whole subframe or fiddling with a makeshift tool.

      Unfortunately the "correct" tool is a Genuine BMW tool. There was a guy in Canada making his own version a few years ago, but he no longer makes them.

      That's why in this case, the dealer might be coming in substantially less expensive.

      If someone who works at BMW could provide an ETK of BMW genuine tools with associated part numbers, they would be the real MVP.
      Attached Files
      Your resource to do-it-yourself and interesting bmw and e30 stuff: www.rtsauto.com

      Your resource to tools and tips: www.rtstools.com

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        #33
        Originally posted by george graves View Post
        I'll just be a jack ass....and say....

        Part of the fun of owning an e30 is working on them. And dropping a subframe, is like getting hazed for a fraternity. It sucks, you might wake up with a sore ass, but at least you know you're in the club. (no homo)


        Doing my first water pump and timing belt had my back hurting but it’s almost done and I’m feel so damn accomplished. Excited to keep learning! Gonna take a look at the walkthrough above.


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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          #34
          Originally posted by CharlieVu View Post
          Doing my first water pump and timing belt had my back hurting
          Pro tip: If you're working from above, in the engine compartment, and find yourself bending over a lot...jack up the front of the car. It'll save your back a bit.
          Originally posted by Matt-B
          hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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            #35
            Originally posted by fiftytakedowns View Post

            Does the IX have the Camber/toe adjustable weld-ins available too?

            Morgan
            The same pieces that work on RWD cars work on AWD cars... the back ends are the same, with the exception of the iX bushings having a longer snout.

            I've been thinking about using a linear bearing in place of the subframe bushings.

            The linear bearing would not deform against fore/aft and left/right loads, resulting in more precise placement of the rear end. The linear bearing would slide up and down on a shaft (still no homo) held in place by the subframe mounting bolt. That means that it would move when axle torque is applied. Above and below the linear bearing, install rubber cushions to absorb the torque load from the axle. Leave the stock differential bushing(s) in place.

            That results in a system that's stiff for handling forces, but cushions the diff so that it doesn't transmit as much gear noise into the cabin.

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