Gas backflow- EVAP probably

[rover215]

I have had my 325e for only two months and have only filled it up with gas one time. A couple days ago while trying to fill it up again, it spat it back out. The attendant (in Oregon you aren't allowed to pump the gas yourself) said it looked full already. EVAP suspected.
I live in a state that tests emissions (DEQ in Oregon), so the charcoal canister must be in service, or at least appear to be. If I bypass the canister, as I've read many ppl have done, will it affect emissions when testing? If it's only to filter the fumes before being released into the atmosphere, I don't see how it would. I'm all for using the thing, but it's something around $250,
Could be just clogged vent lines, so I'm only asking bc I might bypass it for now.

[e30davie]

Im so confused!

so its defiantely empty?

If so sometimes if the nozzles flows too fast too soon it will trigger the automatic shutoff in the nozzle that tells you its full. It is some sort of pressure valve that detects air pressure above the fuel.

My advise is tell the attendant to gently squeeze the trigger to get the fuel flowing, don't go full blast straight away.

I don't understand your "EVAP" comment, unsure what that means. Either way removing your charcoal canister wont achieve anything i don't think.

[rover215]

Im so confused!

so its defiantely empty?

It's almost empty- less than 1/8th of a tank.

so sometimes if the nozzles flows too fast too soon it will trigger the automatic shutoff in the nozzle that tells you its full. It is some sort of pressure valve that detects air pressure above the fuel.

My advise is tell the attendant to gently squeeze the trigger to get the fuel flowing, don't go full blast straight away.

I don't understand your "EVAP" comment, unsure what that means. Either way removing your charcoal canister wont achieve anything i don't think.

I'm suspecting the vent line to the charcoal canister or the breather valve, both are part of the EVAP system. Something's probably clogged it up and I need to push some air through the line(s).

[TobyB]

There is a vent line from the tank back up to the filler neck. It is behind
the metal shield in the right rear wheel well, and then goes through that odd
metal pipe down to the tank.
This is the vent that equalizes pressure between the tank and the filler.
It has a steel Y near the top that usually rusts out in our climate.

Sounds like yours is plugged. Take the right rear wheel off, pull the cover and see.
You're looking for the biggest tube, usually with a cloth- braided cover.

The canister isn't doing anything when the tank's being filled.
The loop is just between the tank and filler neck.

t

[rover215]

Thanks, Toby-
Before reading this (and another member messaging me the same info), I got the car on stands and cleaned everything up really well. Took off the plastic cover to the tank lines, and stopped there. I wasn't sure which line/hose to remove and didn't have any replacement clamps. I'll pick some up and pop that braided hose off and unclog it.
Nice thing was, I found out how clean the body is underneath. Super solid and looks cared for. Thanks for the help-
:up:

[rover215]

I removed the metal cover to the large cloth braided line to the tank (#5 in the diagram) and disconnected it but lots of gas came out so I capped it with my finger and reattached it. Should I have let it flow? I had the rear end on jack stands (changed the shocks, too), so it confused me why it would come out at all since the tube was even higher up than when on level ground.
Either way, the line looked like crap and needs to be changed. I made an appointment with my mechanic since I work 9-5:30 this week. I hate paying him to do stuff I can do, but I can't wait til next Saturday to get it done. Besides, I'm not a mechanic- I just like to do my own work and learn along the way.