"Big Three"

[Jand3rson]

Those are garbage?

Andy doesn't use/buy/reccomend a product that is garbage. I know him better than anyone here, he doesn't settle for cheap shit.

They could just be talking about different things.

[808BMW]

I have a bunch of these:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-644

I haven't done my big 3 yet, but I will... someday.

[Jordan]

No. I know what he is talking about.

Those are not suitable for a application like this.

It would be like building a badass e30, then putting a eta motor in it.

[KenC]

Those crimp on ones are cheap. I was talking about nice set-screw ones.

[808BMW]

Those crimp on ones are cheap. I was talking about nice set-screw ones.

solder + blowtorch is teh r0x0rz for us po folk :P

[92 mtechnic cabrio]

No. I know what he is talking about.

Those are not suitable for a application like this.

It would be like building a badass e30, then putting a eta motor in it.

Don't they have some kind of term for this by now?

Andre'in it up?

[!RocknE30!]

Only 325's. 318's are in front. All convertibles are in front. At least this is what I think is true ;)

Will

Wrong.

318i(s) = rear.

[AndrewBird]

solder + blowtorch is teh r0x0rz for us po folk :P

The ones I am talking about that I can get are solder only. IMO, the best and only way to go. I would never crimp ground wires, let alone use a screw terminal to hold them in place. Just too many ways for it to go wrong.

Edit: Links were removed since they were not working.

[StereoInstaller1]

Personally, in regards to the whole "quality" of the connector...

IME, crimp style brass connectors are the BEST type of connector there is. Period. (assuming proper crimp, BTW).

I will explain.

1. Solder is a terrible idea in an automotive environment on stranded wire. Flux will "wick" up under the insulation, causing corrosion and oxidization. Ever see a soldered connection that has been in a car 10 years? 'nuff said.
2. The really pretty (can we say rice?) set screw type connectors are all CRAP! I haven't seen one in 10 years that wasn't made out of "trophy metal" just like that trophy I got in 3rd grade for "Best Attitude".
3. The gold plating on the cheap pretty connectors hides the fact that they are made of tin, with a coating of cheapo goldish alloy about 2 microns thick.

Gimme old school nasty ass all brass crimp connectors (NAPA, $1.00 each) and a "Hammer Crimp" tool with a sledge, anyday.

I still use the other stuff, becasue it sells best. I have bitchin battery terminals waiting for the BMW, already have them on my Astro, and have a small pile of them for sale. Yes, they are pretty. Wish they worked better. Wish they didn't strip at 2 ftlbs...wish they didn't corrode like a bitch. Wish they didn't shatter so easily, but WTF...life goes on.

Luke

[808BMW]

Haha, stripping bolts (or losing those little f*ckers) sucks, simple and solid.

[netcsk]

Personally, in regards to the whole "quality" of the connector...

IME, crimp style brass connectors are the BEST type of connector there is. Period. (assuming proper crimp, BTW).

I will explain.

1. Solder is a terrible idea in an automotive environment on stranded wire. Flux will "wick" up under the insulation, causing corrosion and oxidization. Ever see a soldered connection that has been in a car 10 years? 'nuff said.
2. The really pretty (can we say rice?) set screw type connectors are all CRAP! I haven't seen one in 10 years that wasn't made out of "trophy metal" just like that trophy I got in 3rd grade for "Best Attitude".
3. The gold plating on the cheap pretty connectors hides the fact that they are made of tin, with a coating of cheapo goldish alloy about 2 microns thick.

Gimme old school nasty ass all brass crimp connectors (NAPA, $1.00 each) and a "Hammer Crimp" tool with a sledge, anyday.

I still use the other stuff, becasue it sells best. I have bitchin battery terminals waiting for the BMW, already have them on my Astro, and have a small pile of them for sale. Yes, they are pretty. Wish they worked better. Wish they didn't strip at 2 ftlbs...wish they didn't corrode like a bitch. Wish they didn't shatter so easily, but WTF...life goes on.

Luke

I just wanted to say that your are absolutely correct in that solder is not as good as people make it out to be.

Also, this wiring 'upgrade' should only be considered to those that use massive amounts of power. If you don't have the need for a 1 farad cap. in your trunk, I can't imagine this making any kind of difference (other than forcing people to clean up connections).

[StereoInstaller1]

Also, this wiring 'upgrade' should only be considered to those that use massive amounts of power. If you don't have the need for a 1 farad cap. in your trunk, I can't imagine this making any kind of difference (other than forcing people to clean up connections).

Chris, you got it right. I have 3 goals...one, nice stable power for my 3 Harmon Kardon CA260 amps. As a whole, they are the least efficient amps ever. They draw a measured 120 amps for about 400 watts of actual power, between all 3. Second, I want my headlights to never flicker, thus a .5 F cap on the headlight power lead, plus 8 gauge wiring to the relay. Third, since this shit is what I do and have done for the past 25 years for my living...I need to show off to sell more shit. I just tell people the truth, it is just for the bling.

Luke