I had a similar leak on the front of my engine. It wasn't the head gasket that was leaking, it was leaking from above. Either the cam seal or those little rubber U shaped inserts. It was really hard to see exactly where it was coming from too, but it look almost exactly like that.
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Hmm, yeah. Could be those. However I did replace the little bungs & cam seal when I did the cylinder head not that long ago. I've ordered some new ones at the local dealer.
I also got myself an oil temp sensor which is cased in an original button so it looks pretty OEM. Still waiting for it to arrive. Along with the little U bungs, I also ordered a new hollow bolt that mounts the oil filter housing to the block. I've read on here that it's possible to drill and tap a hole for the sensor. So there is no need for a sandwich plate between the filter and the original housing.
When I put the sensor in I'll also replace the oil with some high zinc content oil. I've reached out to Mobil1 and they told me that the Mobil Super 2000 x1 10w40 has a content of 1900ppm zddp.
(This is for the European market as it might differ from region to region).
Couple of pictures from the seller.
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Those red cable clips are horrible, i once bought a car that was full of these and was so much work to clean up, because they start to get faulty quick.Comment
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Yeah, I know. I'm planning on soldering the connections instead of using those :)Originally posted by Ludwig View PostComment
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This week I received the oil temp sensor. I had also ordered a few parts at my local dealer which showed up just in time.
On Saturday, I went back to work so I could use one of the manual milling machines to drill and tap the hollow oil filter housing bolt.
I then went ahead and disassembled the console. I noticed the previous owner spliced power from the radio for the Mtech map light rear view mirror with some cheap clamps.
I decied to clean up his wiring and add the wires for the display.
Didn't have shrink tube at the workshop so some electrical tape will do for now.
Also checked and turned the key to test the wiring before fitting it back together.
When the car is off it's barely noticable that there is a oil temp sensor there. I still need to find a nice console frame as mine is cracked in the left upper corner
And with the power on. While I had the console apart, I also replaced the bulb for the OBC buttons.
I routed the wires for the sensor itself over the steering column and through an existing hole in the wiring harness grommet.
And that's where I pretty much had to quit.. Turns out the cable it way too long. Although I contacted the seller and asked it it was long enough.
This is when I route it against the firewall. Although I would like to route it under the intake manifold and then via the crank position sensor
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Also.
Obligatory Winter picture.
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Thanks man!
I haven't received the longer cable for the temp sensor so I got started with trail fitting the E36 m3 front swaybar I got a while ago for cheap.
After jacking up the car and removing the wheels, I glanced over the suspension to check the overall condition and noticed quite a bit of water in the spring perch. There was a little stone and a ton of dirt blocking the little drain hole. Guess I have to check them more regularly.
I then removed the original swaybar and fitted the E36 one without bushings, just to get an idea.
First pretty good at first sight.
This with the wheel turned to the left, suspension under load.
Wheels straight
And to the right
I enlarged some old swabar bushins I had laying around from the suspension refresh from my uncles Touring.
Definitly no perfect though will need to figure something out as the E36 bushings are way to big to fit the swabar bushing clamps.
Feeling pretty confident, I decided to lower the car back onto its wheels.
Well turns out the suspension drops a lot more, causing the saybar to turn a whole lot more and hitting the subframe. I guess some longer links are in order.
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great info. so does that bar get pulled back like that because the end links are too short? So if you just get some adjustable end links, you're probably be just fine huh?Comment
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Yes, the end links are too short so it gets pulled back and swings against the subframe.Originally posted by jeenyus View PostComment
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Awesome! Great work putting in the effort and showing us. Thank youOriginally posted by D.Martijn View Post
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Yeah man, no problem :)Originally posted by jeenyus View Post
I ordered some regular rwd e30 front bushings with a 23mm hole. Test fitted onto the swaybar and fit it pretty good. Still need to cut and thread some old end links I have laying around.Comment
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Finally got the temp sensor installed and working. Took some time to get it all working though.. Since I received the longer wire harness for the sensor, I first removed the one that was too short and routed the new one from under the fusebox to the underside of the intake manifold and in front of the engine block.
I then moved on to removing the old oil filter housing bolt and installing the new modified one. While I was there I of course replaced both orings. One on the bolt and one that sits against the block.
While I was at it I also replaced the oil (yet again)
And a picture of it working while driving home.
Later that evening I made an hour long highway drive to get most of the condensation out of the block. After coming home I couldn't see any residue on the oil filler cap. Oil temp stayed on 90°C while the coolant sensor never went a lot futher than the 1/4 mark.Comment
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That oil temp thing is very good idea, also i was send PM for youComment
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