M62B44,M60B40 heads & cams, Eaton M112 (now with NOS)

[The Dark Side of Will]

Just don't ever get rear-ended.

[Mykk540i/6]

With how little of a car there is on this car, any wreck of any nature will be bad news. I will be doing a roll bar however, which will act more as something to grab onto getting in and out :-P

[Mykk540i/6]

Playing with the pedal assembly this weekend. The assembly is meant for a sandrail, and you can see the provided masters have some interference with the exhaust manifolds. The front of the tape line is where the front of the body sits:





Found a set of bolt in masters with smaller reservoirs, I like that the lines point to the rear away from the heat source:





Clearanced the body for the pedal assembly & masters, could have been done cleaner but I want the ability to easily remove the body and keep the mechanicals on the frame:





Put the engine on it's mounting pucks to get a clearer picture of drivetrain height, which increased exhaust to masters clearance:



You can see a bit of drivetrain lean back, the goal will be to have parallel drivetrain to frame, this will not only look cleaner it will give equal U joint angles at trans output and differential.



Parallel drivetrain will also further increase exhaust to master cylinders clearance and I may be able to move pedal assembly forward a bit giving some more leg stretch room. As is it's not terrible.

6'1" size 13 shoes:

[Mykk540i/6]

More cutting away of the body to make room for things, got the driveshaft & diff location cut out. Looks funny being offset from center, but the differential input is offset.







Also cut a bit more of that corner out and pulled the pedal assembly forward a bit more after tweaking the pedal arms for clearance, of course all of is subject to change once it gets to final bolt down time.





I picked up these brackets for headlight pedestals, and thing they work quite well for the tails:




I'll be losing the use of this shop space at the end of the month, the car will be in storage in pieces for a month or two until I can acquire another work space to continue. I have gotten a bit scatter brained starting so many parts of the build that once I get going again I plan on tackling one bit of the puzzle at a time until that piece is finished and then moving on to the next. It was good to get this kind of 'mock up' and parts together to get a clearer understanding of how it'll fit together and what it'll look like once it's together, but I'm looking forward to getting more long term work accomplished and I will not let this project get back burnered. It's important to me to reach a goal for this vehicle in the up coming year.

[Mykk540i/6]

[slum dog]

Levelz.........
Just curious what's the total expenditure so far. Every time I pop in, the whole T bucket thing Wow this is coming together nice.

[Mykk540i/6]

....Just curious what's the total expenditure so far...

I haven't tallied it all up yet, but a quick assessment I'd say I'm around $7k including the engine build.

[Gtem2017]

I would really like some more info on this build. I joined this site specifically for this build. I have super stalked this particular engine for the last few days and have finally stumbled upon what I have been searching for. I have an m62b44 non vanos and also an m62b44tu. I'm building this. I havhave found other threads and forums but people seam very reluctant to get into deatails about which years and which models, which combination. They speakbriefly. Everytime I have asked for more info, I've been directed to VF. I'm not sure why VF calls what they have a supercharger. When infact it's a procharger. Regardless I want to build a blower motor out of an m62. Maybe add a procharger to top it off like you did withnitrous. Lol anyways I'm down Tucson. Unfortunately I'm moving to Washington work. I would be very humbled if you would share some of your Discovery's and dead ends with me.

[Mykk540i/6]

... I would be very humbled if you would share some of your Discovery's and dead ends with me.

I'm happy to share any information I've got, I think most of it is already out here in this thread. What other information are you looking for?

[TimeMachinE30]

Impressive.

Hate the T buckets.. but very impressive.

[Mykk540i/6]

After reviewing this thread from page 1 I'd like to make a cliffs notes post, I see where I've gotten scatter brained, off topic, jumped around and how following the build could be confusing: So here is just the engine build for people looking for specific information. I'll also include my costs (U.S.) for parts, machine work and misc to give you a ball park idea of investment, of course that dollar amount will vary greatly depending on way to many variables.


Started with an late 90's M62B44 non-TU short block (Ebay local pickup, $250.00). The M62 is shown here with Raceware headstuds ($400.00, vacmotorsports).



Also a complete dismantler take out M60B40 from an early 90's E32 or E38. The M60 will supply the cylinder heads, timing covers, valve covers & misc hardware for the build (Ebay delivered, $400.00) The E34 version of the M60 has the oil filter cansiter that bolts directly to the timing cover, the 7 series version of the M60 has the oil filter canister remote mount on the body and there aren't provisions to mount canister on the timing cover.







The supercharger, intercoolers, injection manifolds inlet & outlet ducts are from a late 90's Jaguar xj8 4.0L V8 (Ebay delivered, $500.00). The only similarities the Jag v8 and BMW V8's share is cylinder spacing, supercharger and manifolds must be from a Jag 4.0L. The 4.2L has different cylinder spacing and will not work.



Measuring piston height on the non-tu M62B44. We can see the pistons sit +.025" above deck and have a slight dish to them. Measured roughly 5cc of volume in piston crowns:







M60B40 cylinder heads back from machine shop after rebuild, (Machine shop cost $500.00)





Measured roughly 52cc of volume in each combustion chamber:



The #1 asked question that I get; Where to get the supercharger adapters. They are made and sold by a fellow BMW enthusiast who is on various BMW forums under the name Toolman, he sells the adapters as a kit with various connectors, fittings, plugs and detailed instructions on how to install on an E38 M62. Sent a PM via forums, then Emailed back and forth, then committed to purchasing them. (Cost $1,200.00)



In the M62/M60 hybrid build you use the M62 head gaskets to match the bore size. The M62 head gasket does not have the timing cover seals built in like the M60 head gaskets.

(Pictured are the used head gaskets off each engine, not new replacements)



I used Victor MLS head gaskets that came in at 1.74mm compressed thickness. By my calc; Using piston height, piston dish, combustion chamber volume and head gasket thickness I put static compression at roughly 9.6:1 (Victor MLS gaskets, $110)



New timing guides, timing chain, timing gears and misc behind timing cover components: (vacmotorsports, $600)



Aftermarket M60 cam timing blocks (Amazon, $50)



It was advised that I open up the bank2 coolant port in the block to closer match bank1 size, they are unusually mismatched in size from factory:





Home made timing cover seals to compensate for lack of timing cover seals in headgasket:



Dialing in cam timings:









Using the aftermarket cam alignment tools the valve timing events landed at:

@.1mm lift:
Intake opens 12° BTDC / Intake closes 48° ABDC
Exhaust opens 48° ABDC / Exhaust closes 12° ATDC

240°/240° duration -108° intake centerline / 108° lobe separation

@1mm lift:
Intake opens 2° ATDC / Intake closes 33° ABDC
Exhaust opens 33° BBDC / Exhaust closes 7° BTDC

211°/206° Duration - 107.5° Intake centerline / 108.75° lobe separation

When it was all said and done I set up the cams for a 112° ICL and a 110° LSA, retarding the intake cams a bit to lower dynamic compression and aid in keeping the charge in the cylinder by reducing overlap.

It's important to note that using the inexpensive aftermarket M60 cam timing blocks I found that bank1 cam timings and bank2 cam timings were exactly 2° different from each other and there would have been no way to know without the degree wheel and dial indicator.

Modifying the supercharger to bolt down to it's new home:







The supercharger pulley also needs to get pulled, flipped and pressed back on in order to line up with the BMW belt drive & accessories. You could use the opportunity to change the pulley size, I didn't and used the OE pulley. The ZZP supercharger pulley puller tool costs $120.00









And of course, the Nitrous...







Total cost till this point, not including tools or nitrous. Roughly $4,000.00 U.S.

[Mykk540i/6]

I'd also like to make a note about the M62/M60 hybrid compression ratios and my theory on why they are different.

Taking a look at the M60B40 piston height @ TDC, +.035" above deck, flat top (no dish):



M62B44 non-tu, +.025" above deck with dished piston crown:





M60B40: 89mm bore x 80mm stroke, +.035" piston height, 50cc combustion chambers (before machining), 1.74mm head gasket thickness = 9.95:1 static compression. For conversation & marketing it's 10:1

M62B40 non-tu with M60 heads: 92mm bore x 82.7mm stroke, +.025" piston height, 5cc dish, 50cc combustion chamber, 1.74mm head gasket thickness = 9.78:1 static compression

In order for the M60 piston to sit .010" higher above the deck @ TDC compared to the M62 that has a longer stroke either the piston pin height must be different, the rod length is different or the block deck height is different.

I personally believe that the block deck height of the M62 is taller then the M60 because the M60 double roller timing set up barely fits on the M62/M60 hybrid. It's super tight, much tighter then the same components when mounted on the M60B40.

This also busts the myth that M60B40 heads on an M62 makes 11:1 compression.

[The Dark Side of Will]

There was some discussion about this on page 7, but this routing may cause you some problems.

You have the tensioner on the "tension" side of the belt, when it should be on the "slack" side. In this case, that would be on the left side between the supercharger pulley and the crank pulley.

As shown, when supercharger drive power is high, the tension on the belt will be high. The high belt tension will fully compress the tensioner and allow the slack side of the belt to become loose. That will cause belt slip on the crank pulley limiting your boost and accessory drive RPM, as well as chewing up your (expensive looking) belt.

[Mykk540i/6]

...As shown, when supercharger drive power is high, the tension on the belt will be high. The high belt tension will fully compress the tensioner and allow the slack side of the belt to become loose. That will cause belt slip on the crank pulley limiting your boost and accessory drive RPM, as well as chewing up your (expensive looking) belt.

I hear that and I do see what you're referring to. If it gives me trouble once running I'll address it then.. like many other things when they come up along the way

[dmjensen]

In order for the M60 piston to sit .010" higher above the deck @ TDC compared to the M62 that has a longer stroke either the piston pin height must be different, the rod length is different or the block deck height is different.

I personally believe that the block deck height of the M62 is taller then the M60 because the M60 double roller timing set up barely fits on the M62/M60 hybrid. It's super tight, much tighter then the same components when mounted on the M60B40.

I know for a fact that the rod lengths are the same. Part numbers are shared and the BMW training material on the M62 says it’s a shared part. If you still have the M60 short block and want to measure the pin location on the piston and the deck height, I can do the same with M62 that is torn down still.

I’d really like to know this information for my build. :D