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    Engine install - top or bottom

    Random engine install question...


    I see most folks using an engine hoist and stabbing it in from the top, often without the intake manifold in place to better clear the booster. Obviously most folks don't have access to a lift - so this makes this method the most common approach.


    Given access to a 2 post lift, is it possible to install a fully assembled M5x/S5x from the bottom using a lift to lower the car over the engine/trans/subframe assembly? Any particular clearance issues? Can the heater hoses still be connected with the manifold installed?


    I dropped my M20/G260/subframe out from the bottom using a lift and would like to install my M52/ZF320/subframe in the same way...but would prefer to know what I'm up against before committing.


    Thanks!


    MJ

    #2
    I’ve done it both ways. Honestly I would leave the intake manifold off either way to avoid any potential damage. Intake manifold is seven bolts and not hard to install in the car.

    Neither way is very difficult. I prefer yanking it out of the top with the trans attached since I’m in my garage but if I had a lift I would do it from the bottom.

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      #3
      I don't see the need to remove the intake manifold, we mounted the subframe to the engine/tranmission combination and lowered the car onto it, went quiet smoothly. It's true that you've to be carefull not to bump your intake into your booster.
      M54B30 E30 build:
      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=426585

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        #4
        Thanks for the replies.

        Danny - While I do agree that installing the intake is not too hard - 7 nuts as mentioned - it does get a little more complicated with a M50 manifold on an OBD2 engine that retains the CCV and associated hardware. Space it tight and it is much easier to route all the lines while on the stand.

        maxpostma - I was planning to install the engine onto the subframe as well as the steering rack and possibly even the front swaybar. So far I have pulled/re-installed 4 engines in various 3 series successfully with this method. My biggest concern is the booster clearance but I think with some care this won't be a problem.


        MJ

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          #5
          If you have access to a lift I would drop it out along with the subframe. If I could have done it this way I would have.

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            #6
            Here is how I do it. It really depends on the car and how far you are going with it, etc.

            Option one - engine fully dressed, clutch and flywheel installed, sans trans, drop it right in, from the top. Makes for an easy install, and putting the trans on in the car, isn't all that bad.

            Option two - remove the subframe, install the fully dressed engine/trans on the subframe and lift the engine up/lower the car down onto the subframe. A little more time consuming, but definitely a much cleaner install, especially if you really care about the car. Make sure to shave the manifold fins to clear whatever booster you are working with.

            Option three - fully dressed engine (sans front balancer/PS pump and belt) and trans attached, shove it right in the car - my preferred method for a car I don't really care about (my red car)
            '72 2002 pickup | '88 M5 | '89 330is | '89 M3 | '01 Z3M | '11 328xi-t

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              #7
              Thanks again - the plan is to try from the bottom and see what happens.

              I will be using a rolling cart to help alignment and can also shim the DS engine mount or remove the intake if it comes to it. Will report back once I get to that point - lot's of prep still to do.

              MJ

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                #8
                Depends on the oil pan, too.

                Now that I have an ArcAsyslum subframe and rear oil pan I have little choice. Out the bottom...

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