New codes after car sitting for months

[diesekte]

Just bench tested AFAIK (hence all the codes that appeared in their run in post #9) - but a lot of the ones they got I don't show while in the car like the throttle body and vanos codes etc.
This is before and after trying to clear my codes and unplugging the CAN controller (made no difference, codes immediately back)

[DesertBMW]

When I flash these I test them on my E36 swapped S54(start and run), so customer is getting fully tested product.

[diesekte]

I don't think there is any issue with the ECU. I think I have a grounding issue or short somewhere - just wondering what would be the best place to start looking. Obviously I am very much dreading looking at every single wire but... :'(

[328ijunkie]

Engine harness ground? I would remove it and clean then re install.

[diesekte]

Yeah that may explain the issue with the jumpy pedal etc...will plan to do that in the coming days.

Issue with turn signals resolved and it was unrelated. Hazard button connection was a bit loose behind dash. One problem down lol

[diesekte]

I got the pinouts and diagrams and started going through every wire.

For some reason, my X6002 pin 5, which should be a ground, wasn't even there.
I added the X6002 pin 5 ground wire, and fixed the super frayed ground (only about 2 strands of wire intact) coming from X6005 in the engine bay. I still had the same issues.

I didn't start the car to pull codes (intake manifold still off), but when I pushed the gas pedal, the throttle actuator moves all jumpy, tach goes haywire, and fuel pump primes....same symptoms as before
I do it again and it sounds like something is shorting in the injector harness. Pulled the cover off, all wires and connections are fine.

I disconnected the exhaust camshaft sensor plug, and that seemed to fix the issue. When I push the gas pedal with that disconnected, the throttle actuator opens smoothly, tach stays at 0, and fuel pump doesn't do anything.

At one point I had a leaky valve cover gasket. I'm just now seeing it leaked a TON of oil all into the exhaust cam sensor and the plug. I disconnected and cleaned both with MAF cleaner to no avail. If I pull the exhaust cam sensor out of the head and have it connected I still have the same problems. I have cut open the factory sheath around the 3 wires that make up this plug but I don't see anything strange at all. Not sure if the plug itself is toast or the sensor is somehow shorting out. I have ordered a new sensor and hopefully can find a new plug, cut mine out, and solder the new one in.

Any idea if the M54 exhaust cam sensor plug is the same as the 3 wire (brown, yellow, red/wht wire) S54 plug? I don't want to buy an entirely new E46 M3 engine harness, and there are a few M54 cars in the junkyard here.

Just an FYI in case this ever happens to anyone, as it was an extremely frustrating problem where I tore the entire car apart to expose all the wiring, and traced all the circuits, and luckily finally found this. All the wiring except the 2 ground issues seemed to be fine so I definitely was getting pretty frustrated.

Will update once the new sensor shows up and/or I find anything wrong with the wiring. I am concerned either the plug is toast from being soaked in oil, or the sensor is. I haven't cut open the large sheath going into the box that mounts on the side of the engine to expose every single inch of these wires, but I know they are ok from the plug to the junction of the 3 wire sheath to the injector harness sheath that sits behind the fuel rail. These 3 wires are also fine for the distance they traverse inside the plastic box on the driver's side, as I did open and look through that.

Edit: found 2 wires (one green one brown) from the injector harness that had exposed copper and were in proximity to each other. They were housed inside the factory thick rubber sheath that looked totally 100% fine externally so I'm not sure how these wires got injured. I have never even been in that area or messed with that particular wiring either. I repaired them and now I have the same issues I started with ALL THE TIME...even with the exhaust cam sensor unplugged. If I unplug the exhaust cam AND intake cam sensor, the jumpy issue goes away. I re-examined all the ground points and ground wires and everything seems totally fine. I have no GD clue what is going on now. I'd really like to avoid it but it looks like I am going to have to just order a brand new z3m harness and hope that fixes it.

[diesekte]

So after repairing those two wires, I had the jumpy issue even with exhaust cam sensor unplugged. If I unplug both the intake and exhaust cam sensor, I don't have the jumpy issue anymore.

I have looked through all the wiring circumferentially along it's entire course. All grounds are good, no broken/exposed wiring.

Seriously what the fuck. Why does either of the cam sensors being plugged in make my tach jump and fuel pump prime when I push the gas pedal? This makes no fucking sense and there doesn't appear to be ANYTHING wrong.

If anyone is following along, you'll remember these issues started after the car was just sitting for a few months. I hadn't messed with or modified anything, and wasn't even driving it so there is absolutely no gd reason for this to all have started in the first place.

[DesertBMW]

If wiring all looks good then you got the bad MSS54. I got a good tested MSS54HP if you want to buy a spare.

[diesekte]

Is that even a thing? To have the swap running no problem for almost 2 years and then the ECU just craps out? I mean I guess you could say the same thing about the wiring but the ECU shitting the bed just seems less likely.
I did open the ECU to look for any burnt spots, loose things, broken connections...and it looks totally ok

[diesekte]

I got and installed a brand new z3m harness and it didn't help AT ALL.
I have no idea wtf is going on here. I have tried replacing the cam sensors, the pedal, and the entire engine harness. I cleaned and made sure all grounds are good. I even installed a second engine ground strap to no avail. The only things that could be wrong IMO at this point, in order of likelihood:

1. ECU. looks fine inside and out and nothing was done to it so it has no reason to have an issue. Also was tested and reflashed by markert and it seemed to be working fine. But I just don't see how I can have issues in such varied electrical systems with no clear wiring issue.
2. Andrews harness. Again, nothing has been done to it and it hasn't been modified in any way and looks totally ok, but its the only thing besides the ECU (since main harness has been eliminated) that ties together the gas pedal, tachometer, and fuel pump via the relay. It is a very self explanatory harness though and I took it all down and reconnected it all and it made no difference.
3. Throttle body actuator. When it self tests when the car first starts, that makes the tach move for some reason. Seems fine internally and externally though I couldn't see the actual motor since I couldn't remove the semicircular plastic gear inside
4. Starter. Not sure if somehow the solenoid melted or something crazy and somehow there is an issue with the trigger wire? Again...seems to look fine externally.

Another thing I have noticed is after shutting the car off, maybe 10 or 15 seconds later there seems to be kind of a "surge" when power is released by/through something that sometimes makes the tach jump, but sounds like clicking and possible throttle body actuator movement

Suggestions welcome. Going to try replacing the ECU as my next step.

[diesekte]

I think we have a winner (DesertBMW) suggesting bad ECU.

I spent probably 50 hours going through my entire engine wiring harness and tracing all the wires that go to and come from the ECU - no big issues, all grounds ok, no shorts or broken wires I could find, etc.

Replaced the ECU and now when I push the gas pedal, the tach doesn't move, and the fuel pump doesn't prime - just the way god intended. I took a short 10 mile drive today and it seemed like the power level was where it should be, not like the last few months where it was a total dog. Admittedly I didn't floor it bc its 25 degrees outside and I'm on summer tires, but it feels better. Will check if there are any codes tomorrow.

The car did stall twice when I was slowing down, which has always happened occasionally. When I was having major issues it was happening almost every time I slowed down, now it just happened 2 times - maybe its learning the fuel curves again since the battery has been disconnected for months?

[DesertBMW]

Well, I got the ECU back from Markert. They didn't see anything wrong with the ECU or the tune but reflashed it to humor me.

It is really a shame for BMW community to charge for a service and not fully test it.

I think we have a winner (DesertBMW) suggesting bad ECU.

That is why I am the best

[nando]

It is really a shame for BMW community to charge for a service and not fully test it.

That is why I am the best

Omg. Are you serious?

You're the most notorious, hack job, thieving POS "tuner" in the whole BMW community. I gave up on banning you here because you kept coming back like a cockroach.

It's amazing how far and wide your reputation precedes you. How many forums have you been banned from now? All of them? You might change your name HakkenTT, but we know who you are.

Anyone who buys from you is just getting scammed. The only "tuning" you know is what you've stolen from others, and you don't even get that right.

[diesekte]

Alright guys...had it running with the replacement ECU, also from markert. I am still getting 4 codes. This time I am using INPA. For codes: 2 for throttle position (looks like the one on the pedal and one of the other ones) and two I am concerned about bc I was under the impression these should not be able to exist with a working swap tune. Looks like 1 for EWS and 1 for coolant outlet temp - E30 S54 swaps (and S54 Z3M) don't even have this sensor. See attached...what gives? The only reason I could see the EWS and temp sensor codes showing up is if something is wrong with the tune/coding, or if it always shows up in INPA and it's NBD as long as the car drives fine?

[nando]

has the car been started/driven yet?