Sepang Bronze E30 M3 S52

[reelizmpro]

I think so too. I've passed on many M3's over the years at $10k-13k, making excuses as to why I shouldn't, swapped/salvaged, etc. but in retrospect they were still good cars. This was before prices went up so I was very hesitant at the time. At the end of the day for the price I got it for, it was a no brainer.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

love the color

[itskingsteelo]

That color is super clean!! Your collection is insane.

[AwakenNoMore]

Love the color.

[reelizmpro]

After a year of going through the car and fixing minor issues she is registered! Still chasing some electrical gremlins but the car runs solid and really rips.
Here's how she sits now...


Think these would look sexy on Sepang??? or would it be too much bronze? I'd like to do a bronze / shadow chrome Style 5 for this car.

[2mAn]

Think these would look sexy on Sepang??? or would it be too much bronze? I'd like to do a bronze / shadow chrome Style 5 for this car.

I prefer polished lips, but otherwise those wheels would be great

[reelizmpro]

Okay, I think I fixed all of the electrical gremlins in the car and there were plenty. Whenever I rolled down the windows the instrument cluster fuse would blow. Strange since the cluster has nothing to do with the window circuits. Seems that someone thought it was a good idea to tie the passenger side window switch to the reverse light switch positive. No idea why this was done as it works perfectly as designed after rewiring it the right way.

Then while driving, I noticed the radio would shut off and on while braking and/or using the windows. I checked the radio harness which was good then measured the radio fuse and got 10.2 volts. All hot fuses measured just 10.2 volts. I traced the problem to the battery junction in the engine bay. One side was 12.7 volts and the other was 10.2 volts. I noticed that they installed the two ring connectors together on TOP of the conductor plate to a single bolt. When I removed the bolt, I could see that everything was corroded and pitted so I sanded all the contacts down and removed the pits from the conductor plate with a belt sander. When I reinstalled them I installed 1 wire on the top bolt and the other on the bottom bolt with both underneath the conductor plate instead of on top so they are now sandwiched. Went back to the fuse box and measured...12+v! So if you have a swap car, pay attention to how the harness is connected to the battery junction and make sure each wire has a good clean connection.

For illustration...


On another subject, I noticed the car has new 134A AC lines installed so I filled it up to see if the AC worked and sure enough...cold AC!!! I haven't had cold AC in an E30, in literally 20+ years. I had given up on it as R12 was scarce/expensive and the system was leaking on my old 325. AC really sucks the power out of the S14. So much so, I removed the compressor out of my M3 a long time ago. S52 M3 however, is a different breed as there is plenty of power on tap so the sacrifice is worth the cool air. Even as an M3 purist I must admit the swap really does make it a great all round street car.

[2mAn]

even as an m3 purist i must admit the swap really does make it a great all round street car.

qft

[Jokester]

qft

S14, s52, what’s the difference ;)

[dude8383]

Did you get rid of the condor mounts? Was going to say that if you have the trans mounts too its 100% the culprit. I don't know why people do this to street driven cars. The car just vibrates like mad with them.

[reelizmpro]

Did you get rid of the condor mounts? Was going to say that if you have the trans mounts too its 100% the culprit. I don't know why people do this to street driven cars. The car just vibrates like mad with them.

I still have them installed. That's the next issue I'm going to tackle. I'm going to make sure it's not the exhaust system rubbing against the body (that's what it feels like). Once I verify it's the mounts, I'll swap them. It just bugs the shit out of me.

[dude8383]

I cannot tell you how many times I've installed either poly or rubber mounts on customer cars because the Condor's were just unreasonable on a street car. For a race car I totally get it but we're talking stop and go traffic in NY here!

The product is great so I don't want to sound like I'm knocking their stuff... It fits proper just not meant for a street driven car. Some people may have no issue with it but I'm 32 and I'm over that shit haha!

[jeenyus]

I cannot tell you how many times I've installed either poly or rubber mounts on customer cars because the Condor's were just unreasonable on a street car. For a race car I totally get it but we're talking stop and go traffic in NY here!

The product is great so I don't want to sound like I'm knocking their stuff... It fits proper just not meant for a street driven car. Some people may have no issue with it but I'm 32 and I'm over that shit haha!

I would like to clarify this should be an explanation specific to the transmission mounts. As far as motor mounts go, I didn't notice a significant NVH increase. I was skeptic going into them because of all the horror stories I had hear about the UHMV being hard af, but I was happily surprised when I didn't shake my brain loose. An inline 6 is so balanced UHMV seems to be fine, but for a transmission, I'd never deal with that.

[Motheye99]

I got a set of condor delrin transmission mounts for my m42 and they shifting will the a sloppy old shifter alot better, at the cost of I would assume hearing loss and back problems. For 2 weeks I drove it and it really hurt my ears now I barely notice it. That's probably not good.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[jeenyus]

I got a set of condor delrin transmission mounts for my m42 and they shifting will the a sloppy old shifter alot better, at the cost of I would assume hearing loss and back problems. For 2 weeks I drove it and it really hurt my ears now I barely notice it. That's probably not good.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk