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    Rally / RallyX Build

    OK, Away I go. After digesting the Pitchblack thread (which is a total god-send of information and gotcha-avoidance), it's time to begin the process. For step one going to do all the bushings, re-enforce subframes, new discs/pads, delete AC, and also needed a new exhaust, so magnaflow cat and IE cat-back package. ( I might also do the z3 steering rack if i get motivated...)

    Got crazy lucky finding the starting point platform. no rust, lovingly maintained.

    Pics:






    #2
    That e30 looks like a good start. Sounds like you're off to a good start. Make sure you remove the IS valence and add a skid plate.
    AWD > RWD

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      #3
      Thx! Skid plate is for sure in phase one. probably pick up one of the HIK Fabrication ones.....

      Comment


        #4
        Wait, you're going to rally-cross a clean 325iS?! 1. Figure out what production month you car is, then commit it to memory - very important for 87 325i cars. 2. Break down your VIN and see what options came with your car. 3. Download the Electrical Diagram and purchase a Bentley manual. 4. Consult others who rally e30s before purchasing parts.

        If you need help with your harness, etc - let me know. I know way too much about the Motronic 1.1 harness vs the Motronic 1.3 that every other person has. I also have an 87 325iS.

        If those are original all black door cards, then sell them to support your build, there's a decent amount of money available, plus why ruin door those door cards. You can also make some money selling that S front valance that you will most likely destroy rally-ing.

        I wouldn't spend the money on an IE catback exhaust if you're going to rally. Just have a local shop do it up for cheap. You can probably make a decent amount of money selling off your interior. I assume you're going to cage? You can make money selling your interior if it's truly black. You can also sell your "sound system" bits (tweeters and rear deck speakers) for some money.

        If you do the Z3 rack, go ahead and pull your subframe out and have it re-enforced while you're doing the swap. DON'T do the manual cop out, bend your stock pressure line to fit the Z3 rack. I used the garagistic kit to do the conversion for the linkage.

        I would also highly recommend poly or derlin engine/trans mounts, and poly bushings all around. Lolipops, swaybars, rear subframe, and shifter linkage. The Z3 or Z4 shifter drastically reduces throw.

        Lastly, before you do any of this, find out what club you're going to run with and then download the appropriate rule book. I run SCCA rules for the local autoX events and I fall into Street Modified. I would suggest figuring out what class you want to build to within the budget you've set, then build to that specific class. One un-educated parts purchase can really put a wrench in your plans, then you would be in a class that you can't really compete in because you're so under prepared.

        Bottlecaps are your best friend for rally wheels - they don't have center caps and they work well with stud conversions. Basketweaves are awesome, but the center caps won't fit over studs... so sell them to get some money back. They are nice and you have the caps, they'll go for $200 with a decent set of tires. Bottlecaps are everywhere, cheap as hell and work.
        Last edited by paynemw; 12-25-2017, 05:58 PM.
        Paynemw
        1986 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - Sold!
        the ebb and flow of 325is ownership - In RVA
        1988 BMW 535is - RIP but my dream BMW

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          #5
          If I found a car in that condition, would leave it as stock as possible. Original cars are getting hard to come by, but it is yours so have fun with it.
          Continuous For Sale Thread
          323i s50

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            #6
            Yeah I'll be honest it's kind of a shame that one that nice is being rallied
            sigpic

            (clicky on piccy to get to thread)

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              #7
              Yeah, that car is too nice for rally-cross.

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                #8
                Man that thing is clean! Hell of a better start than mine, I feel like you could just flip it and make a healthy profit to fund your rally build.

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                  #9
                  What a f**kin sin to turn that car into a rally car. IS cars in that condition are becoming pretty valuable and harder to find. I bought a beat 318i when I wanted to go sideways through the woods.

                  The Build:
                  http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=191125

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thx for input to everyone, and I definitely hear all of you on the topic of whether or not its too nice to convert to race car. Thought long and hard about it. Decided that it's easier/cheaper in a lot of respects to start with something a little nicer. That way i can sell off the nice parts I wont' be using, and start with known good condition drive-train, which is def a time/cost saver.

                    I have however, gone back and forth on whether to go the rally route or the Chump/Champ Car route. There's just something about rally...Since I was a kid, always watched rally when it was on and got into the stuff like Dakar. The early audi quattro's were dope! (one day I will own a rally prepped 911 and maybe even do something stupid like race it at Baja...)

                    But for now, the first step is getting this rig put together!

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                      #11
                      I started off with a really shitty e30 for rallycross. I spent way more time and money on this POS getting it ready than if I had just tripled my initial budget. Picking the nicest car you can afford to start with is definitely the way to go.
                      AWD > RWD

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by atxE30 View Post
                        Flush that green shit out! BMW Coolant and distilled water.
                        Paynemw
                        1986 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - Sold!
                        the ebb and flow of 325is ownership - In RVA
                        1988 BMW 535is - RIP but my dream BMW

                        Comment


                          #13
                          OK, after getting the family off across the pond, finally got this thing up and stands and started down the list today.



                          Fisrt Item on the list, AC delete....phase one done today, phase two tomorrow when i can get a neighbor to help me pull the hood off (yes I know I don't need to for this but have other stuff to do that will be nice to have it out of the way..)



                          I've got to make some changes to garage setup. Can't easily get to bench, tool cabinet. Speaking of which I really need to take advantage of post x-mas sales and grab some organizing stuff.



                          So once i got under the car, it became pretty obvious the steering rack and the return power steering lines were leaking. I was contemplating doing the z3 rack conversion while I have the front subframe off, but this just made it necessary..

                          The other thing I that's nagging at me is the manifolds. The heat shield is gone, and I should pull the manifolds and do gasket and new studs/brass nuts anyway but man, I sure hope the PB Blaster works its magic on the old ones on there now. I live in fear of really old manifold fasteners...

                          Will most likely get the calipers and disks pulled tomorrow as well. New disks and pads on the way, and gonna do the caliper rebuild while I'm at it.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            With respect to brakes, I'm wondering if doing the booster delete is a good idea. Any thoughts on that from folks doing rally thing? from what i've read the on various forums, it seems like a decent way to get to a firmer peddle, which I think I am going to prefer based on how it feels now. that said, I still need to flush/bleed with fresh ate fluid, but if that doesn't firm it up significantly (along with fresh pads) than I might pull that trigger...

                            (side note: I am not going to do PS delete)..

                            Comment


                              #15
                              You should seal off the AC lines going into the car. Latex glove and a zip tie or whatever. But if you leave them open and then do rallyx the lines will become filled with dust and you'll never be able to have a working AC again.

                              Leave as much powered stuff as you can. Brakes, steering, windows...
                              AWD > RWD

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