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    #16
    The chart here http://www.rtsauto.com/ecu-pinout-an...cal-tests-e30/ shows pin 28 is a different input from 1.1 to 1.3. I heard 1.3 DME's are interchangeable with 1.1 DME's a lot of times. But one time I heard it only applies if the car was made in 9/87+. Of course mine is 4/87...

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      #17
      Probably the VSS signal just isn't wired up on your car. Would be an easy fix, although it will enable the 125mph limiter. I'm not sure it's worth worrying about.
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      Bimmerlabs

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        #18
        Thanks for the quick reply! I do like an adequate chip in my brain though. One that will un-limit it. So I'm already worried about something else which is I can't seem to get my hands on a 0 261 200 153 DME that does not have a random, once in awhile, 1-second (give or take) loss of spark (possibly fuel injection pulse too). You know, the jerk? I even had Programa send me a fresh rebuild and it has the same issue. I have been on this problem for quite some time and I'm 99% certain it's the fault of the DME. I wish I had a 9/87- 325i/is/ix to test the DME on besides mine. Also wish I had a good DME.

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          #19
          Stupid me, I misread the chart. So pin 28 is the same between DME's. Only pin 29 has the vehicle speed signal from the instrument cluster on the 1.3's and it is blank on the 1.1's. So if I wanted to rig that up I guess I could hit up the junkyard with some terminal tools. Now that I study it I would have to do something similar for pin 38, 40, 41, 50, 51, and 54. So yes, looks like a large hassle to make my Bimmer Motronic 1.3 ready. Unless someone can tell me if just getting the DME harness for one would solve that problem??

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            #20
            The pin isn't different on the DME. it's just not wired on your car. The DME doesn't really need it.

            What do you need the other pins for? They aren't used for anything. I think you're way overcomplicating this.
            Build thread

            Bimmerlabs

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              #21
              If I want to use a 1.3 DME in my car, which was made in 4/87, from what I gather, I would have to give the DME those extra inputs in order for it to work correctly. Because if I just plug that type of DME into my stock connector, what happens at 5500 RPM is a very dramatic sort of rev-limiting that kills the performance.

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                #22
                No. Those pins are not used - they don't do anything. There's no pins there on your harness because they aren't even connected inside the DME. The DME pinout between 1.1 and 1.3 is the same.

                The only pin you've listed so far that actually does do something (VSS) is the for the speed limiter, and it's really not even required.

                If you're getting a phantom rev limiter, I'd be looking at your CPS, not the DME.
                Build thread

                Bimmerlabs

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                  #23
                  CPS is new and from the dealer. Not just OE, but from the dealer. And it works just fine on the 153 DME. Except occasionally, the car will lose spark and jerk for about a second.

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                    #24
                    Check the gap between the crank wheel and the sensor. Sounds like you're having the same symptoms with both DMEs. IIRC the 153 is more tolerant of a bad CPS signal than the 1.3 DMEs. It has nothing to do with the pinout of your harness.
                    Build thread

                    Bimmerlabs

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                      #25
                      Thank you. This is a good piece of advice. I have checked it before but it won't hurt to do it again.

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                        #26
                        I am sad/happy to report at least some tech. error in this story. Something I obviously neglected to do was follow the rules when installing a CPS. Once upon a time, I had to replace my CPS because its wires were getting worn by a pulley. I was not careful to not over-tighten its mounting bolt. I tightened it so much that after a few R&R's it stripped. So I take it that was enough to bend the mounting bracket, decreasing the gap. So I pried it back a little, just enough to put it back in spec. (1mm). Time to go for a ride.

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                          #27
                          I'm pretty sure at least one bolt goes through and uses a nut. So it should be easy to fix.

                          A tighter gap is better than a bigger one (as long as it's not rubbing).
                          Build thread

                          Bimmerlabs

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                            #28
                            Well the CPS bolts to the bracket with no nut and the bracket bolts to the block with no nuts. However, since I stripped both the bolt head and the threads for it in the bracket, I am now using a bolt and nut to secure the CPS.

                            The problem persists. CPS gap is in spec, toothed wheel shows no signs of deviation with engine running. Anyway I sent my fresh 153 back to have it looked at. Of course they say they don't have many problems or something of the sort. Either way, I am going to feel better after they check it out a second time.

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                              #29
                              Perhaps your harmonic balancer is starting to come apart? Not usually a problem on 6-cylinder cars, but it does happen.

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                                #30
                                Perhaps it does wobble at high RPM, like jlevie's did. However it's not enough to scratch the CPS. I'd have to have a buddy redline it while I check it out. He used a light and a camera but I am less high tech. It's looking more and more like the CPS wire in the main harness is losing its shielding, also like what happened to his car. He tried used ones but only a new one was a permanent fix...

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