Another rear subframe thread.

[Mike325]

mike325, youll have a fun time getting them out of the subframe.

Tell me about it

[Keith M]

I'm still at a loss as to why you have to take the bolts out. I just pulled mine last weekend and it was no big deal. Removed the nuts then the..I'm not sure what you would call it, the re-enforcement plate that goes from the bottom of the subframe mount to the sill (at the jacking point, there are two 6 or 7mm hex screws holding it on).

Keith

[FL318is]

Sorry

Haven't kept up with the post. You don't have to take the bolts out, SOMETIMES. Because of 3 dis-similiar metals there may be corrosion and the subframe/bushing (aluminmum sleeve)/bolt could bond together like mine did.

After I tapped my bolts out I was able to pry the subframe down, BUT, the rubber was stuck to the subframe housing so it tore loose and I was left with part of the bushing complete with sleeve stuck to the body frame.

I have pics somewhere and will post them. It was a freaking PITA. More to follow. PM if you need help.

[Mike325]

Thanks for the help. Right now I have been drilling around the metal sleave into the rubber bushing from under the car in an attempt to just pull the subframe down and try to get the pins out after. So far so good though.

[FredK]

Mike, I just did this a few days ago. I cut the rubber bushings to drop the subframe, then tapped the stumps left in the body back and forth with a mallet. Fortunately they didn't break.

To remove the remains of the rubber bushings in the subframe, I heated the outer metal bushing carrier, but not so that the bushings were on fire, just slightly bubbly and smoky. I then used a pipe wrench to work the bushing back and forth a few times, then used a prybar on the flange side of the bushing. Easy. Didn't piss off the neighbors with thick smoke from burning rubber.

[Jand3rson]

That's what I was just going to suggest, I've heard of/seen a lot of people burn them out or heat them up, like Fred did.

I'm going to be doing mine soon, along with the trailing arm bushings, as soon as I get them ordered, so I'm glad this thread is here.

[mops]

Nice thread guys.
I'm preparing for the same jub aswell. I have to take out rear subframe, and fuel tank, replace all suspension bushings, all rubber fuel lines and fix some minor rust while i'm at it.

two things I cant work out:

1. since rear subframe will be out, how do i support the chais ? with axle stands ? but where do i put them exacly ? without subframe and rear axle/diff there only chasis rails on the very end of the chasis and i would need something like 1.5m lift axle stands ? can you advice guys ?

2. i want to remove whole thing with diff and stuff, to have good access to clean it out and inspect/fix any rust. I'll have to disconnect rear brakes (both handbrake and the rear calipers - whats the best way to do it ?

thanks in advance,
Mops.

[FredK]

1. To support the chassis, you should place the vehicle on the pinch weld right where the rear factory jack point is. In order to prevent the distortion of the pinch weld, you should use a urethane (or similar material) pad between the jackstand and the jackstand. So you can use regular jackstands. Just remember to SLOWLY lower the car back down onto the jackstands.

2. You'll have to remove the pin that secures the handbrake shoe expander to the cable and pull the cable through the rear trailing arm.

To remove the rear brakes, just remove the inner brake line from the hardline on the trailing arm. You can put a rubber glove or something to catch the fluid that will start spilling. A good brake bleed and you'll be all set.

You'll also have to disconnect the rear swaybar.

[Mike325]

Thanks for all the help guys, it really helped a lot. I just got the subframe out about 30 min ago. This is how I did it.

Around the metal sleave in the bushing, I took my drill and drilled out the rubber from the bottom of the car. This got them pretty loose. Then I took my 3-jaw puller, and with a small 14mm bolt put in the hole (threaded end going into the SF aluminum sleave) to ack as the stopper end for the puller, I pulled the subframe down.

As it was coming down, I would spray a shit load of silicone spray lube up on the sleave that was now exposed on the top. With the puller still pulling tight, I would wait and you could actually hear the subframe getting loosened up and pulled down all by itself

I did that a few times and the subframe was at a point to where I could take a pry bar and just give it a little tug to get it out.

Be sure to keep the back end of the diff supported with a jack to keep the SF level and not leaning backwards.
I still need to get the sleaves out, but Fred, I think I will try your way first. Are you going to get yours sandblasted? I am and was wondering if you know of a place around here.

If anyone is about to attempt this, give yourself pleanty of time and patience. It is a bitch but well worth it (well, it will be lol)

[Mike325]

FredK's way to take the bushings out of the body is the ONLY safe way to get these out. Speaking of which, do these look like they broke off at all? I don't think so.



AHHH

Damn it feels good to be a gangster.

[Keith M]

Glad you got them out. In western Oregon they don't use salt on the roads so the corrosion on mine was minimal (hell, if we get 1/16" of snow, everyone panics and the city shuts down).
I took the rear subframe to a machine shop today to have the new bushings pressed in (also the trailing arms and the one on the diff cover). Pick them up tomorrow morning, then start painting.

Keith

[nando]

I'm still at a loss as to why you have to take the bolts out. I just pulled mine last weekend and it was no big deal. Removed the nuts then the..I'm not sure what you would call it, the re-enforcement plate that goes from the bottom of the subframe mount to the sill (at the jacking point, there are two 6 or 7mm hex screws holding it on).

Keith

I think it's because many people have a lot of rust, and it doesn't come apart easily. if you car is not rusty at all (mine isn't) then you shouldn't have to mess with the anchor bolts. my subframe came out as a whole, all I had to do was remove those nuts and tap on it with a rubber mallet.

[Mike325]

Glad you got them out. In western Oregon they don't use salt on the roads so the corrosion on mine was minimal (hell, if we get 1/16" of snow, everyone panics and the city shuts down).
I took the rear subframe to a machine shop today to have the new bushings pressed in (also the trailing arms and the one on the diff cover). Pick them up tomorrow morning, then start painting.

Keith

Mind telling me how much this cost you?

[FredK]

FredK's way to take the bushings out of the body is the ONLY safe way to get these out. Speaking of which, do these look like they broke off at all? I don't think so.

Well, I have heard a few other ways to get the bushing out, but without any extra tools besides a hammer, it's a quick and easy way to go!

You can feel the bore that the bushings were installed in. If it's smooth and round after cleaning the powdery corrosion out, you're all set!

I'm not gonna get my subframe blasted. I'm just going to take care of the slight rust in a few spots with some POR-15 paint. There was plenty of cosmoline protecting the subframe, so it's mostly free of rust.

[Keith M]

FredK - The total was $220 for all the bushings and rear bearings. $ 20 ea for 6 bushings (the one on the diff cover was free I guess), and $ 50 for each bearing with hub removal and install. More than I wanted to spend but it was done in a day and I did have to screw around for a half a day with the press.

Keith