1989 325i Rescue

[Poorhouse]

Started prepping to pull engine. I think I've got most everything on the top side undone except the p.s. lines.


Removed a couple pounds of alarm in the process.
The glovebox was locked with not key. I couldn't get my hand up behind it to release the latch. Ended up destroying it. If anyone has a spare let me know.


Tentative plan.
Engine:
Pull engine/trans. Engine on stand, trans to dump.
Remove all accessories.
Remove head. Check block, assuming no issues head to shop for rebuild.
Clean up, replace gaskets, replace sensors, belts, wear items.
Reassemble.


Trans:
Clean and check.
Replace input and output seals.
New clutch parts.
Refresh shifter, maybe short shift kit.
Replace guibo and CSB.


Car:
Need new exhaust center and rear sections.
Drop subframe, clean and insp.
Replace steering rack - E36/46/Z3 - still researching
New tire rods, ball joints, bushings, etc.
Install used Bilstien/HR set up.
Replace rotors/pads, check calipers, rebuild ebrake drums.
Replace fuel tank and lines.
New tires for the Ronals.


I'm not going to drop the rear subframe at this time.
Any other while I'm in there ideas?














Where things are as of last night.

[Reichart12]

I don't know how far youre taking the engine apart but iirc it's easier to loosen the crank bolt while the transmission is still attach and in gear. Otherwise the crank will just rotate as you try to remove the bolt.

[Poorhouse]

I don't know how far youre taking the engine apart but iirc it's easier to loosen the crank bolt while the transmission is still attach and in gear. Otherwise the crank will just rotate as you try to remove the bolt.

Not that far. I'm pulling the head and the oil pan. If things look bad I'll find a different engine or rebuilt short block.

[Poorhouse]

Made some progress Saturday.

[Poorhouse]

Fire wall insulation is falling apart. Is it necessary?
Are replacements available?

[Jokester]

Replacements are available, and the insulation is needed, block a lot of heat and noise, so unless you're going race car. Keep it.

Part #'s for new insulation are
51481916442 Center
51481962048 Right
51481962045 Left

not cheap, but worth it.

[Poorhouse]

Resized pics, not sure why they default to huge.


Thanks for the info. Now is the time to replace it if I'm going to.
It's not in bad shape cracked on the lower left and upper right.

[Poorhouse]

Got the head off and the block mostly stripped down.

I'm not seeing any oblivious issues with either. Head gasket looked fine.
I can't feel any ring ridge. Cross hatches still visible in cylinders. Still need to pull the oil pan.

Taking the head to the machine shop this week.

[paynemw]

While you have the engine out, you might as well use the opportunity to pull the rear subframe down. You will find that while you have the exhaust off, the drive shaft off and the car on stands, removing the subframe is only 3 more bolts. Replacing subframe to body and other bushings are crucial and worth it.

[Poorhouse]

Good advice. I've been thinking about doing the rear end now.
I'm just not sure there will be time before spring.
If I could just drop it and do the bushings that would be one thing. I know I would want to refresh the whole thing though.

My thinking is if I wait until next winter to do the rear the exhaust and driveshaft should come apart easily as they would have just gone on.

[Poorhouse]

Cleaning up the block. Would be much easier if it was summer and I could roll it outside.

Pulled the oil pan. I think things look pretty good.

Taking a bunch of parts to my buddy's shop next week for a run through the parts washer.

[Poorhouse]

Heard back from the machine shop.
Cam is damaged at the broken rocker lobe.
They recommend replace cam and all rockers.
They are working up pricing for stock parts.

If I wanted to upgrade what would be the recommendation?

[Poorhouse]

Fresh from the parts washer.

[Poorhouse]

Got the fuel tank out and ordered new rubber hoses. May or may not have gotten the correct ones. Real OEM was a bit vague.

Dropped the VC and intake mani for powdercoat.

Took a closer look at the 5 speed I got. It's an E trans with the dual mass flywheel. Did some reading here, appears it should work fine with a Euro 323i bearing. Ordered a fancy RHD flywheel. It was cheaper than OEM.

[Reichart12]

I used the e trans (stock on mine) when I swapped to the RHD flywheel. No problems at all getting it to mate when using the 323i bearing. From what I remember getting a clutch kit from AutohausAZ and the tob separately was the cheapest combo I found.