Best Oil to run

[Spec_E30]

our cars were designed before synthetic was invented.
go fossil. i like rotella, castroil.
2c

Humans existed before antibiotics. Don't take antibiotics!

[ForcedFirebird]

our cars were designed before synthetic was invented.
go fossil. i like rotella, castroil.
2c

Humans existed before antibiotics. Don't take antibiotics!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHmMlU8Q-V8

[hasa]

High Zinc might be good idea when running M20 having bad reputation to wear out valvetrain due friction. That's why I've used 10w-40 meant for big diesels. But this is just a religion, based on rumours.

[Zeemz]

I use Brad Penn Penn Grade 1 20W50 Partially Synthetic "The Green Oil"

https://www.penngrade.com/penngrade-1/

Has a high zinc content as well.

[cheffy30]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHmMlU8Q-V8

i saw that video long ago and dig it... to be honest i have used all kinds of different oils... i have 270k on the clock... still purrs. from what i can tell, everyone uses a different oil in their cars.
i would say the argument is sorta mute.

[MrBurgundy]

Threads like this will keep popping up until the day we all die.

[Andre3127]

A friend of mine turned me onto Shell Rotella T5 15w40 at $18 a gallon. Seems to run great.

[LowR3V'in]

i wonder if 0w20 walmart oil seems to run great aswell and how long will it seem to run great for.

[ForcedFirebird]

High Zinc might be good idea when running M20 having bad reputation to wear out valvetrain due friction. That's why I've used 10w-40 meant for big diesels. But this is just a religion, based on rumours.

i saw that video long ago and dig it... to be honest i have used all kinds of different oils... i have 270k on the clock... still purrs. from what i can tell, everyone uses a different oil in their cars.
i would say the argument is sorta mute.

I have taken apart hundreds and hundreds of m20's. In fact there's at least a dozen here at the shop right now (and just as many e30's lol). I can tell you 100% for sure that the rocker system does in fact wipe lobes, just like my Firebird and Camaro would, just like my neighbor's vintage F250 did (which I repaired). It's not a myth about ZDDP folks. Just browse bobistheoilguy.com ;)

Threads like this will keep popping up until the day we all die.

On every auto-enthusiast forum, not just here.

i wonder if 0w20 walmart oil seems to run great aswell and how long will it seem to run great for.

It works fine. There's 1000-1100ppm ZDDP IIRC, but it's rather thin for the m20 (M1 15w50 has over 1200). We saw ~8psi oil pressure on hot summer days in the endurance car with M1 15w50 at ~290°, which put's it < 20w at that temp. Seeing you would be starting with 20w, couldn't imagine what it would be at full operating temp in an m20 :/


We switched to LiquiMoly RaceTech 10w60 and instantly saw a ~8psi increase in summer racing temps. It's been tested to keep 30w or more at 300°, and based on real world experience, I concur.

[LowR3V'in]

^ do u like the vr1 stuff?
i have to change my shit every month because it turns black.
the stuff you use is pricey and i only see it on amazon.

[e30davie]

The oil I use is the best oil because of my single anectodal point of data of my engine not exploding.

[noid]

Use 15w-40 diesel oil.

Its a matter of regulated limits and taking advantage of the differences between gas and diesel regulations.

Note there are two types of ZDDP, primary and secondary, the former being more thermally stable.

I wrote about it here for those who want to know more:

http://www.rtsauto.com/diesel-oil-vs-gasoline-oil-what-oil-to-run-in-old-cars/

[ForcedFirebird]

^ do u like the vr1 stuff?
i have to change my shit every month because it turns black.
the stuff you use is pricey and i only see it on amazon.

Try it and see ;) It's still nice a gold color after 24hrs of racing in an e30. It's not overly expensive from a supplier, it's the shipping from Amazon etc that kills it for a consumer. Ask around your local Euro independent shops, I am sure they can get it, even WorldPac carries it.

Use 15w-40 diesel oil.

Its a matter of regulated limits and taking advantage of the differences between gas and diesel regulations.

Note there are two types of ZDDP, primary and secondary, the former being more thermally stable.

I wrote about it here for those who want to know more:

http://www.rtsauto.com/diesel-oil-vs...n-in-old-cars/

Conventional oils suck for racing or high temps. They break down so fast with heat and turn black, no doubt. Delvac is also great conventional/diesel (for street cars), has all the right ingredients, great sheer properties etc, but we can't use it in the track cars as we see 270° or more for hours on end - it turns to black and thin as water in less than 2hr.

The oil I use is the best oil because of my single anectodal point of data of my engine not exploding.

This. Even if your oil change is $20 more, what's $20 every 5k miles? (Specially when Mr. Hellaflush Lowr3v'in has turbo :p).


Couple videos (212°f for just a few seconds):


Liqui Moly

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-T6PTZai5s4

VR-1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJ417eIkf3Y

[LowR3V'in]

i can't tell what those videos show exactly but i think i'll switch to liqui moly
there's a bmw place that stocks it.
better pay alittle extra then blowing because the oil got too thin.
That happened to my m20. spun a bearing because it had vr1 that was acouple months old.
super black.

i put a heat reader on the turbo drain, off the oil pan, after just driving to a friends house it was coming out like 215f, the pan was 150f btw.

[noid]

Try it and see ;) It's still nice a gold color after 24hrs of racing in an e30. It's not overly expensive from a supplier, it's the shipping from Amazon etc that kills it for a consumer. Ask around your local Euro independent shops, I am sure they can get it, even WorldPac carries it.





Conventional oils suck for racing or high temps. They break down so fast with heat and turn black, no doubt. Delvac is also great conventional/diesel (for street cars), has all the right ingredients, great sheer properties etc, but we can't use it in the track cars as we see 270° or more for hours on end - it turns to black and thin as water in less than 2hr.






This. Even if your oil change is $20 more, what's $20 every 5k miles? (Specially when Mr. Hellaflush Lowr3v'in has turbo :p).


Couple videos (212°f for just a few seconds):


Liqui Moly

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-T6PTZai5s4

VR-1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJ417eIkf3Y

Try the new CK-4 rated diesel oils like Rotella T4, the new rating requires high shear stability.

The oil being black is actually a good thing. A primary reason for the detergents in diesel oils is to remove carbon, not because its dirty, but because it decreases the effectiveness of the ZDDP and increases wear:

https://www.jstor.org/stable/44644592?seq=1#page_scan_tab_contents

In racing applications, you'll benefit from the higher ratio of primary ZDDP, as it is much more stable at high temperatures. Primary ZDDP is favored in diesel oils, because the expectation is that trucks will run for countless hours at high temperatures. In gasoline engines, they aim for more secondary ZDDP, for cold starts and short trips.

Oils specially designated for racing may use a higher ratio of primary to secondary, but I cant say for sure, as that would be a question for the oil maker.

Before assuming that racing oils will have more primary ZDDP, consider that it depends on what they aim to prove. Secondary ZDDP will show better protection on a graph, but in high temp situations it does not have the thermal stability to provide that protection. Primary ZDDP will provide less protection, but it will be consistent even at high temp's.