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Old 10-21-2018, 03:13 AM   #1
george graves
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What color primer did BMW use?

TLDR: What's under my paint? Did BMW use a dark primer under my zinno paint?

Why I'm asking: I'm well on the way to doing/learning some "paint correction" skills - and using the factory paint on my e30 to learn on. (yes, it needs a respray, but before it does, this will let me get a few more years out of it, it's a learning experience, and it's kinda fun!) I have no intention on doing it as a side jig. I just like learning stuff.

More info: I tried to color sand out a well etched into the paint bird drop poop spot with 3200 grit 3m paper, assuming it would be about 2x aggressive as a cutting compound like 205, but I think I almost burned through the paint. Did bmw use a black-ish primer on cars (This car is a 89' 325is zinno.)
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Old 10-21-2018, 11:49 AM   #2
earthwormjim
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Primer was light grey on my Imolarot E36 and Hellrot E36.

It also looks like it is light grey under my zinno E30 wagon, but the car was resprayed, so I can't be sure what is and isn't original..

Light primer was helpful on the bumpers I've painted. Helps you ensure you really have full coverage.
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Old 10-21-2018, 12:47 PM   #3
jeffnhiscars
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To really remove imperfections you'd want to start with 12-1500, then take it up in stages but you might find it stands out if you don't do the entire panel.

3000 is what I use right before I pull out the polisher (did an entire replacement fender that way). It looks better than the rest of the zinno panels so I feel like I need to wet sand the whole car now. Talk about mission creep
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Old 10-22-2018, 03:41 AM   #4
george graves
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To really remove imperfections....
Yea know - I think my paint is way too thin to be even thinking about 1200 grit. That's why I started at 3200. You can always step down, if it's not doing the job - but can't undo 1200 when you get to primer. Am I right or am I right?!?!?

So yea....I was starting to expose something even with 3200 and less then a 5 seconds lightly rubbing with Optimum No rinse as water/lube. And I had one or two spots using Meguiars 105 that I got the same thing. So - for now, I think I'm going to stop chasing scratches and bird dripping, and what 105 can get out will be what it can get out. Ultimate polish/205 and then jescar powerlock+, and some 845 wax.

It's a learning experience for sure. Not something you can be perfect at the first time out.

Now if I could just figure out how to buff to the last millimeter against window rubber seals. Even with masking, I can't get that last mm of paint polished. And when I'm done, the crack is full of polishing oils and product that I assume I'll have to take a tooth brush too to get it out. Any hints?
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Old 10-22-2018, 01:08 PM   #5
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My lachs cars primer is grey

In terms of getting to hard to reach places use a hand applicator

In terms of getting compund out of crevices, don't use so much compound that it gets caked anywhere. Use enough to create a light film while buffing over the paint. If you already have buffing compund in the crevices and on your seals, use mineral oil to wipe it away, with a micro fiber towel. I've personally never tried it but I know it's a useful trick to get compund off seals and other plastic pieces. Worth a shot i guess.

Also since your paint seems to be thin, after your done cutting the paint i wouldnt use a buff on wax because you might risk further cutting into primer. I'd suggest using a spray on wax. F11 is a great product i use and it does a great job at repelling dirt, shining up the paint, and protecting the paint.

Also, also, paint correction is a fun thing to learn so take your time. I like to go panel by panel when i'm not at work because then you can really make sure each panel looks as good as it can get. Have fun!
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Old 10-23-2018, 05:16 AM   #6
george graves
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Thanks for the tips. M105 really dries out fast - so a that's one of the issues of the build up. So far I've been taping and and hopes that works. I'll try the mineral oil trick.

I was going to go with m205 for the final, but the "you can get it at walmart" "Ultimate Polish" is more noob friendly it seems, it doesn't dry out as fast.

And no, I'm I'm hand applying the sealant and wax with one of those new fangled "hex" applicators. Foam material on a non-absorbent foam handel.

It's quite the rabbit hole to figure all this stuff out, and that's coming from a guy that deals with complex stuff for a living. But these new products are amazing compared to anything even 10 years ago.
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Old 10-23-2018, 11:01 PM   #7
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Yea the detailing products they have today are insane. I work at a dealership detailing shop and the commercial-use products we get to use are borderline magical lol.

If you find the time post before and after pics, transformation pics never cease to satisfy.
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VTEC gerade in Yo getreten!!
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1987 325iS Brilliantrot (kinda running)
1992 Civic Hatch Milano "Le Hoonda" (dearly missed)
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Old 10-24-2018, 05:07 AM   #8
george graves
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I might save a fender for a DIY post - I'm sure I'm not the only one that doesn't know all the new and crazy (and affordable stuff) now-a-days.
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