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M50/G260 to M50/ZF

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    #16
    Originally posted by LTDScott View Post
    Anyone else have input regarding whether a new shifter carrier and selector rod is needed? I'm giving thought to buying the ZF as a spare and only swapping it in if/when the G260 craps out, but of course I'd want to have all of the parts I'd need on hand.
    its quite possible your 2x broken G260's was due to not perfect angle of the everything when assembled with 24V engine?

    the ZF 5 speed in our car mated up perfect with e36 zf 5 speed shift linkage parts. you only need the selector rod and shift carrier; brand new about $30 each piece from the dealer with 2yr warranty. bushings use some racing ones so they dont move around; the oem ones get pretty soft when hot. Use whatever shift lever you desire; we are using a X5 for super tall effect. z3/z4/e46 are also popular.

    our m20 ate 1 g260 (4th gear) in its racing lifetime; nothing else.

    if you have the 96mm guibo driveshaft in the car already then it will directly pnp with the ZF 5 speed.

    whatever clutch and flywheel can just stay on the engine. we are running a stock m20b25 clutch and flywheel on ours.

    the ZF is a better newer box and takes abuse better; its on needle bearings. the case housing is also stiffer

    it runs cooler and on ATF oil instead of Manual transmission fluid (although you can fill it with 75-90 if you really desire)


    One thing you will find that the 5th gear in the ZF is = 4th in the g260; so you need to watch the top speed on the straights.

    for sears and buttonwillow 4,10 was ok. thats what was in the car from m20+260

    For thunder hill we went to a 3,91 - more overhead for the front straight. Ours is spinning to 7500rpm
    OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

    Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



    Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

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      #17
      The first G260 broke with the stock eta motor. Second one (would not stay in 4th) was behind the M50. I believe both of them probably died due to overly aggressive shifting. We broke a selector rod that way as well (now have the specially bent UUC DSSR for 24V/260 swaps).

      96mm giubo? I think you have that wrong, my car and E36 328i/M3 both have the larger 135mm giubo.

      You ran a ZF trans with 4.10 diff at Buttonwillow? Either your car is slow at the top end or you have taller tires than we do. With our 205/50/15s, ZF, and 3.73 rear, I calculated top speed of approximately 120 in 5th at 6500 RPM (factory redline). Our car can touch 115 at the end of the back straight if we get a good run, and I set the shift light at 6000 for the sake of preserving the engine, plus there's not much power to be had past that anyway.*

      *edit - just saw you're spinning to 7500. We don't have that luxury.
      Last edited by LTDScott; 01-28-2014, 12:49 PM.
      The Homer: Powerful like a gorilla, yet soft and yielding like a Nerf ball.

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by LTDScott View Post
        The first G260 broke with the stock eta motor. Second one (would not stay in 4th) was behind the M50. I believe both of them probably died due to overly aggressive shifting. We broke a selector rod that way as well (now have the specially bent UUC DSSR for 24V/260 swaps).

        96mm giubo? I think you have that wrong, my car and E36 328i/M3 both have the larger 135mm giubo.

        You ran a ZF trans with 4.10 diff at Buttonwillow? Either your car is slow at the top end or you have taller tires than we do. With our 205/50/15s, ZF, and 3.73 rear, I calculated top speed of approximately 120 in 5th at 6500 RPM (factory redline). Our car can touch 115 at the end of the back straight if we get a good run, and I set the shift light at 6000 for the sake of preserving the engine, plus there's not much power to be had past that anyway.*

        *edit - just saw you're spinning to 7500. We don't have that luxury.
        7500 is needed for the short final yes; otherwise its not Enough.

        No problems with stock shifter and selector rods for m20 or m50 setups in our car.

        Its about 170rwhp and 180 torque to the ground.

        The m20b25 dyno'ed 154 at mce thill.

        Someone is abusing these parts.

        The 96mm refers to the guibo bolt pattern; the 325i e30 and 325i e36 both use 84mm.

        We are running 215 45 17 or 215 50 16 or 225 50 15 I think. Forgot will check too many combos
        OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

        Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



        Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

        Comment


          #19
          Yeah, I agree it's probably abuse. I removed one weak link by upgrading the selector rod which likely moved the stress to the tranny.

          When comparing giubos, I was using the sizes listed by my part supplier (Worldpac). They say the 325i (E30 and E36 - 26 11 1 225 624) is 96mm diameter, whereas the 325e/E36 328i (26 11 7 511 454) is 135mm diameter, but apparently that doesn't match the sizes listed by RealOEM, which is 78mm and 96mm bolt patterns, respectively. So I apologize for the confusion. Bottom line, I know my car has the big giubo which matches the ZF trans.

          Your taller tires help your top speed compared to mine.
          The Homer: Powerful like a gorilla, yet soft and yielding like a Nerf ball.

          Comment


            #20
            Time to bring this post back to life. During the car's last race in 2015, I crashed the front end, lost 4th gear in the G260 trans (that makes 3 we've killed), and the engine stopped running, so the car was put in mothballs for the last 4 years. Recently I fixed the front end damage and got the engine running (timing chain tensioner broke which caused the chain to skip teeth and the engine wouldn't run, but thankfully there was no damage) so it's time to address the trans.

            Based on everything I already posted, I need:
            -ZF trans with matching E36 shifter arm and selector rod
            -E36 clutch slave cylinder
            -E36 pilot bearing
            -Throwout bearing?
            -Normal E30 trans crossmember

            I will reuse:
            -E30 single mass flywheel and clutch setup
            -E30 starter
            -E30 driveshaft (already have large giubo version)

            The only thing I'm not really sure on is the throwout bearing. Researching online, lots of people say you need the E21 323i Euro version (21511204525) but nobody has mentioned it here. Is it absolutely necessary?
            The Homer: Powerful like a gorilla, yet soft and yielding like a Nerf ball.

            Comment


              #21
              M50/G260 to M50/ZF

              Originally posted by LTDScott View Post
              Time to bring this post back to life. During the car's last race in 2015, I crashed the front end, lost 4th gear in the G260 trans (that makes 3 we've killed), and the engine stopped running, so the car was put in mothballs for the last 4 years. Recently I fixed the front end damage and got the engine running (timing chain tensioner broke which caused the chain to skip teeth and the engine wouldn't run, but thankfully there was no damage) so it's time to address the trans.

              Based on everything I already posted, I need:
              -ZF trans with matching E36 shifter arm and selector rod
              -E36 clutch slave cylinder
              -E36 pilot bearing
              -Throwout bearing?
              -Normal E30 trans crossmember

              I will reuse:
              -E30 single mass flywheel and clutch setup
              -E30 starter
              -E30 driveshaft (already have large giubo version)

              The only thing I'm not really sure on is the throwout bearing. Researching online, lots of people say you need the E21 323i Euro version (21511204525) but nobody has mentioned it here. Is it absolutely necessary?


              Use throw out that matches transmission; it should come in the new clutch kit.

              If running the zf 5 speed might as well update to the stronger e36m clutch 240mm standard.

              M20 clutch isn’t really designed for twin cam power; change it to avoid failure when you have the chance.


              Plenty of steel lighter aftermarket flywheels avail inexpensive for the e36m; run Oem Sachs s52 clutch for durability

              The m52/s52 starter is inexpensive and a lot easier to remove than the m20 part.

              Suggested for endurance racing
              OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

              Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



              Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

              Comment

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