How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap

[ScHpAnKy]

Ya I had an alignment and it deleted the slow return problem I had. But the issue regarding the inline instability feels like its something else. Feels like something is loose but ive been through the setup three times and checked through everything to ensure it was done right.

I'm also getting this, but haven't done a proper alignment yet - although, my iX with 4x4 and no alignment doesn't jerk the steering around like this thing is doing.

Like, seriously, wtf?

Also, what are you guys with this problem running for tie rods? I'm using the E36 ones.

[Landrunner]

what kind of alignment specs are you guys going with to delete this slow (or non existent in some spots) return problem? toe? caster? camber?

[ScHpAnKy]

what kind of alignment specs are you guys going with to delete this slow (or non existent in some spots) return problem? toe? caster? camber?

likely toe, CAB mounts control caster and unless you have camber plates it's non-adjustable on an e30

[Landrunner]

likely toe, CAB mounts control caster and unless you have camber plates it's non-adjustable on an e30

Recommended toe setting?

[Gary Horneck]

Great upgrade! Much more fun Autocross steering. I am using 1/8" toe out, and the E36 tie rod set.

[davem]

here's a pic that a fellow r3ver (nickname: Goose) took that demonstrates how to route a stock e30 HP line with a z3 rack - no bending of the fittings required, just flipped:

[inwoo]

now that i'm all done with this swap...

Steering is much more weighted and stiff compared to the e30 4.0 lock to lock rack.

For those moving from a stock e30 -> z3 2.7 rack, did your steering get stiffer?

[davem]

now that i'm all done with this swap...

Steering is much more weighted and stiff compared to the e30 4.0 lock to lock rack.

For those moving from a stock e30 -> z3 2.7 rack, did your steering get stiffer?

well you have a lot less leverage going from 4.0 turns lock-to-lock to 2.7 so that's why you need to give more effort to turn the wheel. I just did the normal e36 rack (3.2 turns lock-to-lockand it's not stiffer).

[defaultName]

Last Friday I swapped in a Z3 steering rack.

Everything went pretty smoothly and there looked to be barely any binding in the steering knuckle.

The problem's started happening when I drove it. I didn't really have an issue with binding so much as the car pulling violently left and right. It fells as if someone is jerking on the steering wheel. I would turn the steering wheel very slightly and then it would continue to turn on its own until it locks

I put the car back in the garage and tried to grind down the steering knuckle but it didn't feel or look like it was binding very much so I wasn't sure how much to really remove. I drove the car again and it didn't feel much better at all.

I'm really not sure what could be causing this. Would a binding steering knuckle cause the car to pull from side to side, because I thought it would make it harder to turn?

I even tried to check if my tie rods were touching my wheel but there seems to be enough room. Power steering has been deleted as well.

I just wanted to follow up on this.

I had an alignment done on the car and it fixed all of the problems I was having.

[treff-7]

well you have a lot less leverage going from 4.0 turns lock-to-lock to 2.7 so that's why you need to give more effort to turn the wheel. I just did the normal e36 rack (3.2 turns lock-to-lockand it's not stiffer).

it gets stiffer but not only because of the ratio change but also because the e36 power steering works on a higher pressure than the e30 one. it was designed for it so it feels heavier on lower pressure.

[russll5951]

Ok so I searched and could not find the answer. I got the 3.2 e36 rack and it came with the e36 knuckle. Can I use that knuckle or do I need to mod and use the e30 knuckle? Sorry if this has been asked before.

[davem]

Ok so I searched and could not find the answer. I got the 3.2 e36 rack and it came with the e36 knuckle. Can I use that knuckle or do I need to mod and use the e30 knuckle? Sorry if this has been asked before.

read this thread starting from page one, explains everything

you need to modify your e30 knuckle if your e30 is didn't come with a air bag from the factory, throw the e36 knuckle away

[Landrunner]

So I have had a rebuilt ZF E36 M3 rack in my car for a few months now and I have had the car aligned, the knuckle adjusted several times, and I still experience slow or no steering return when moving the wheel 20 to 30 degrees in either direction. Is this normal? Brand new steering pump, all new lines, new tie rods and control arms. The car is a 1990 325i with airbag.

[chrisnxl185]

i'm in the middle of swapping in a regular e36 rack and had a new idea of a way to shorten the steering joint.

Could you remove the steering guibo to shorten the joint. might need some small spacers in there to get the length just right. see pictures



Has anyone tried this before? This method retains the joint's ability to compress and removes any flexibility from the rubber part hence improving steering feel.

My only concerns are:
-can i shorten the joint enough?
-do the u-joints need to be offset 90 degrees from each other?

Any thoughts?

Turns out, for proper u-joint alignment, they do need to be offset 90 degrees. To solve this, I got a beefy washer and put it in the same location as the guibo. I ordered the washer from McMaster
Washer: 98026A039
Bolts: 97135A235
Nuts: 92620A655




I've been driving around with this set up for 7 months now. No problems!

[Karmageddon]

[new guy question ahead]

My car just got checked out by a dealer (ugh) and they have suggested I replace

Right front inner tie rod end (has play) - Price $Arm + tax
Left front outer tie rod end (has play) - Price $Leg + tax
Left front lower ball joint (has play)- Price $First born +tax (its all theirs)

I'm having trouble working out what is going on. If I replace my steering rack with an e36 rack can I use the e36 tie rods that come with it? I'm looking at the picture of the e30 steering rack on Realoem.com but I'm getting confused on what the dealership calls "inner/outer tie rod end" and they mention ball joints, where as realoem call the tie rod a collection of things including the balljoint.

If I was to replace my steering rack, would getting a e36 steering rack with tie rod ends solve the problems my dealer says my car has? If not, why. If I am replacing one tie rod end is it a good idea to replace both sides? Or do I have some terminology wrong and is that confusing the fuck outta me.


[Edit] Questions answered problems solved.

thanks