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    Tips on making my car ride smooth

    So pretty quick noob question. Super long story short I rushed into buying my E30 and didn't do my HW. Since it was the only E30 and BMW in general I've ever driven, I'm not sure how it's "supposed" to feel.

    The car has just under 170 on the clock before the gears went out. Had a shitty idle, incredibly loose shifter to list a few.

    I found a local BMW shop who's been in the business for 30 years. He fixed the idle, adjusted the head and other things.

    Ive thrown on new rotors and brakes, new engine oil/filter (which def made a difference in how the engine sounded) but I still feel like I'm "missing" something. I understand the car is just about 30yrs old and will never run like new but I just want it to feel good.

    It's a 1990 325ix, the PO "modded" the car with the following:
    Supersprint exhaust
    Bilstein suspwnsion
    Finland fix front axles w/ extended splines

    I plan on having the shifter fixed soon, What should I look into next?

    Sorry if I'm rambling


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    #2
    More info:

    PO said the following was all "new"
    Timing belt
    water pump
    Alternator
    starter
    BMW motor mounts
    BMW transmission mount

    Not sure how to verify that.

    As far as rust, there's some surface rust under the doors, bad spot under the battery.

    My windshield wiper only works on the fastest setting but it moves slow.

    I've replaced a dead battery and all of the fuses, might be excessive but I had incorrect fuses and some blown ones. This actually helped bring the interior lights back to life.




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      #3
      Since you didn't do a pre-purchase inspection, invest in a post-purchase one. Find a mechanic who knows these cars to drive it, look under the hood and check the suspension, drivetrain, hydraulics, etc. from under a lift. He can give you a good sense of your priorities for the price of 1-1.5 hours of labor.
      ainadude
      Indian Wells, CA


      sigpic




      1991 325i 2dr. 5sp, delphin, w/freshly re-skinned IS sport seats/15" Ronal cross-spokes

      1976 Triumph Spitfire w/1.8-liter Miata engine/transmission, koa dash with TR6 oil/volt gauges, lowered suspension, 14" Minilite replicas and more

      2004 Kawasaki ZZR600

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        #4
        Originally posted by ainadude View Post
        Since you didn't do a pre-purchase inspection, invest in a post-purchase one. Find a mechanic who knows these cars to drive it, look under the hood and check the suspension, drivetrain, hydraulics, etc. from under a lift. He can give you a good sense of your priorities for the price of 1-1.5 hours of labor.


        Back when I had some work done the mechanic didn't seem to tell me anything was wrong, or that I should be worried except for brakes and rotors which I've knocked out.


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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          #5
          A few things I've found in my experience with e30s...

          Bilstein sport shocks can be pretty stiff, and take bumps pretty hard.

          Also, I'd advise chasing down as many squeaks and rattles as you can. Having noise happen every time you hit a bump can make it seem like the car is riding a lot rougher than it actually is.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Victell View Post
            A few things I've found in my experience with e30s...

            Bilstein sport shocks can be pretty stiff, and take bumps pretty hard.

            Also, I'd advise chasing down as many squeaks and rattles as you can. Having noise happen every time you hit a bump can make it seem like the car is riding a lot rougher than it actually is.


            You know what.. sometimes going over bumps sounds like a little explosion.. almost like the rear end or the tires are going to come blowing out. While I was under the car I noticed the rear sway bar links on one side had destroyed rubber.. I'm ordering a new pair.

            Thanks for the tip!


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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              #7
              Might also be rear sub-frame bushings, and trailing arm bushings, or top shock mounts. Try the sway bar link and if it persist swap the rear shock mounts(add the cheap reinforcements) and then if its still there buy new bushings.


              Originally posted by Anthead View Post
              You know what.. sometimes going over bumps sounds like a little explosion.. almost like the rear end or the tires are going to come blowing out. While I was under the car I noticed the rear sway bar links on one side had destroyed rubber.. I'm ordering a new pair.

              Thanks for the tip!


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
              91' 318is 90' 325is

              Originally posted by Sonny
              Buy the E30s, they ain't gonna last long
              E30 can make you, E30 can break you
              "He who controls the Nova's, controls the Boomers"

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Motheye99 View Post
                Might also be rear sub-frame bushings, and trailing arm bushings, or top shock mounts. Try the sway bar link and if it persist swap the rear shock mounts(add the cheap reinforcements) and then if its still there buy new bushings.
                Yup, all those.
                Also, make sure to get smaller wheels (not sure what you have on there now) with FRESH rubber. You have no idea how much shock is absorbed by the tires.
                (easiest, cheapest and safest maintenance item on the list).
                If it's got tits or tires, it's gonna cost ya!

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Stanley Rockafella View Post
                  You have no idea how much shock is absorbed by the tires.

                  As someone that's running 205-40-17, I fully agree. About to switch to a set of 16" and looking forward to having some decent meat between me and the road.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Stanley Rockafella View Post
                    Yup, all those.
                    Also, make sure to get smaller wheels (not sure what you have on there now) with FRESH rubber. You have no idea how much shock is absorbed by the tires.
                    (easiest, cheapest and safest maintenance item on the list).


                    My tires look to have decent thread left and they're on 15' basket weaves in a few weeks I'll switch over to new winter tires


                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                      #11
                      enter your vin number on realoem. learn about your car from inside out. study.
                      buy the bently manual and read it cover to cover.
                      watch every single e30 youtube video.
                      educate yourself about your remarkable car.
                      post recent pictures of your girlfriend here on r3v.
                      change the timing belt.
                      drive the car.



                      Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
                      ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                      '90 325i sedan daily driven
                      '85 325e coupe also a daily

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                        #12
                        If you can't verify that the transmission mount and engine mount are new, you might want to start familiarizing yourself with the car. The IX is completely different than the RWD version of the e30, especially with suspension components all the way to the grounding cable. Quite a bit of resources for you though.

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