Open heart surgery

[Jshbrwr]

You just did a head gasket job, any oil on the exhaust manifold needs to burn off. If it doesn't go away then start looking at the valve cover gasket, rocker shafts plugs, area around the distro cap.



Did you spill oil when you went to fill it after all the work you did?

No oil spillage...[emoji848]

[zaq123]

that noise doesn't sound good at all, definitely trace it down. I also don't like that bubbling coolant in your video. Could be a sign that HG job didn't go as expected. Definitely do the leak down test

[Jshbrwr]

that noise doesn't sound good at all, definitely trace it down. I also don't like that bubbling coolant in your video. Could be a sign that HG job didn't go as expected. Definitely do the leak down test

Exactly my suspicion. Bubbly coolant was a symptom before I started the job. Hey, can’t expect perfection the first time huh?

After checking the injector connections, I’m gonna adjust valves then do the leak-down. If the HG job was bad, at least I know how to get to it again.

[zaq123]

Exactly my suspicion. Bubbly coolant was a symptom before I started the job. Hey, can’t expect perfection the first time huh?

After checking the injector connections, I’m gonna adjust valves then do the leak-down. If the HG job was bad, at least I know how to get to it again.

maybe nothing to do with HG? Was the car ever overheated? Hopefully it isn't cracked head

[Jshbrwr]

maybe nothing to do with HG? Was the car ever overheated? Hopefully it isn't cracked head

Well, I just had the head re worked and checked for cracks and they found nothing so I think that’s out of the question...and I’m almost positive it had overheated before I bought it. The thermostat was broken when I did the water pump/timing belt the first time

[Jshbrwr]

Just checked all the injectors first by disconnecting while running the engine, then doing the screwdriver to the ear thing (should’ve done them the other way around but whatever)

Injector 2 is not squirting, so I checked the resistance of the electrical connector and am getting 1.9 ohm, with 2-3 being in specification. Is .1 going to make a difference, or is it the injector?

I’m thinking about swapping the injector with one that works to see if the problem follows the injector or if it’s the connection. Hoping it’s just the injector.

Also, I’m seeing some grimy brown crap in my coolant expansion tank. Thinking I goofed the HG as well. So, there’s that. The prospect of re-doing is not as bad as doing it the first time since I’ve been down that road. Just wondering what exactly went wrong.

We’ll see how it runs after the injector thing is cleared up.

[zaq123]

I’d stop screwing around with injectors and fix HG first and ASAP before it creates bigger problems


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[digger]

Also, I’m seeing some grimy brown crap in my coolant expansion tank. Thinking I goofed the HG as well. So, there’s that. The prospect of re-doing is not as bad as doing it the first time since I’ve been down that road. Just wondering what exactly went wrong.

We’ll see how it runs after the injector thing is cleared up.

was the system flushed and cleaned? how does the oil look? and inside the valve cover?

HG its not much more than
- crack free head
- quality gasket (OE or goats)
- flat surfaces in particular the head
- cleanliness and preparation of surfaces
- proper bolts and torque sequence

[Jshbrwr]

was the system flushed and cleaned? how does the oil look? and inside the valve cover?

HG its not much more than
- crack free head
- quality gasket (OE or goats)
- flat surfaces in particular the head
- cleanliness and preparation of surfaces
- proper bolts and torque sequence

Before I started the job, the valve cover inside looked terrible and covered in thick blackness. Now, after the job it is much cleaner and of course since the head was cleaned it looks great. The head was decked but I may have missed something in the reinstall.

Either way, after the valve adjustment and replacing the bad injector I’ll be able to actually drive it and see how the temp does and also be able to gauge the cooling system’s capabilities. If it stays cool, I’ll be happy. If not, it may be a re-do on the HG. Stay tuned

[Jshbrwr]

Wonder if anyone is still watching this thread [emoji848]

Anyways, replaced the bad injector and she runs smooth now. I’m still not great at adjusting valves, since there’s still a good tick to the engine. Any advice on that would be appreciated. I’m using the .10”/ .254mm feeler per “cold engine” in the Bentley manual.

Now I’ve run into another issue - the alternator belt has been squealing like mad since before I started this job, and after getting the adjuster screw replaced (old one had broken teeth), I find that even to the maximum stop on the tension, it is still loose, causing squeal. I’m thinking of buying a slightly shorter belt to put on but wonder what else you guys think, if anyone has experienced this before?

[Jshbrwr]

Dear diary,

So I’m an idiot and a scholar

The loose TB I think is due to the 127 tensioner and a 128 belt. It’s still in time, but I plan on changing the belt back to a 127 tooth.

I also am realizing now that when routing the alt belt I did not route it over the water pump, only the crank pulley. [emoji849]

That explains why it was so loose duh

That probably also explains the cloud of steam/smoke by the exhaust while running last time. No coolant...? I ran it about 2-4 mins twice. Hoping that’s didn’t trash anything, but if it won’t stay cool after I put it all together this time, then at least I’ll know how to get back in there the second time.

[Jshbrwr]

I replaced the 128 tooth belt with a 127 and was much relieved that the tension was just right after reinstalling. Just as a note, it was still lined up perfectly timing-wise, but that slack had me sweating so...

Got it all back together, routed the belts (correctly including the water pump under the alternator belt this time) and cranked up just fine.

2 issues remain:

1. A little fuel leak at the fuel rail/#6 injector

2. Smoke/steam (don’t know which) puffing from the exhaust manifold side while running. This might be a bit of PB blaster that needs to burn off, or something else?

I’m gonna take care of the fuel leak this weekend by taking off the intake man and replacing all the injector o-rings and maybe the main fuel supply hose where it connects to the rear-most section of the fuel rail. I can’t really continue until that’s not a hazard anymore.

After that is good to go, I’m planning on doing a leak-down to see if there’s any gaps in that HG, or the rings or whatever

From there, I’ll be able to really run it for more than just 5 mins, and see how the temp goes. If it’s still running hot, or puffing steam/smoke I’ll likely jump in and re-do the HG job *yay*

[Jshbrwr]

Update # infinity

I re did the HG over 2 days a couple weekends ago (about 10 hours I guess), a much improved timeline over the first time. Started up and ran fine, except flooded out about a mile from the house. I just sat there for a few, then got it going and made it home, smelled awful like gas...

The next day I was pretty defeated as I read over the Bentley manual on fuel, and realized that I’d connected the cold-start and the thermo-time backwards! So it was over-fueling! Swapped me back and was running great - except overheating [emoji3062]

So I pressure tested the system, found some loose hose clamps and leaky hoses, replaced em, then noticed the reservoir cap gasket was busted! A couple days to get the replacement cap delivered, and new coolant, just to fine the radiator was the weakest link! Leaking from the front right. I ordered a replacement radiator for about $100, new coolant (again, this time Dextrol or something blue-colored) filled it up and she finally ran without overheating thank the lord!



Since then, I’ve had to replace a fuel hose that was like a sprinkler under the hood, adjusted the valves a third time (it was the charm this time), put on new rotors and pads for the front, and am waiting on a new in-line pump to arrive today since the one I replaced back when I first revived the car has started to whine and almost stranded me on the interstate.

Brakes/rotors were toast



Also had a hard time getting that rotor screw out on the drivers side. Had to get creative with a T40 torx and a cheater bar to get that crap out



Currently considering how to get some of the junk out of the gas tank WITHOUT removing the tank. My plan is to open the top of the tank under the backseat, and lift the drivers side of the car to get as much stuff to the passengers side, and try to shop-vac or siphon the remaining gas and crud out that way. I know it’s not the best most complete way to do it, but I’ve got to get it back on the road, plus I don’t think I’ve got the nerve to try another big project on it yet. And removing the drive shaft/exhaust/etc sounds pretty involved [emoji51]

If that means I burn another pump between now and then, then I guess that’s the risk.

[zaq123]

I must say that using a shop-vac to empty the gas tank is pretty insane idea. Brushed motor in the vacuum and gas combo has a disaster written all over it.

Stock gas tank should have a drain plug.

[Jshbrwr]

I must say that using a shop-vac to empty the gas tank is pretty insane idea. Brushed motor in the vacuum and gas combo has a disaster written all over it.

Stock gas tank should have a drain plug.

I was planning on smoking a cigar at the same time, while breathing pure oxygen from a tank...lol

Thanks for the sanity check. I’ll just use my rubber hose siphon.


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