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Far from it, just got this long awaited package in the mail the other day.
Between school and work all I've really gotten done recently is installing the oil system, bought peak and hold adapters, and am waiting on a set of timing tools to free us so I can rent them.
Awesome build! Subscribed for sure! I have read in Maximum Boost that a split header flange is preferable to a solid piece do to internal stresses when the headers heat up. Just something to think about, don't have any personal turbo experience myself but the theory makes sense to me. Good luck with the build!
Yea I read that as well, I asked about it on bfc and the general consensus was that it wasn't such a good idea.
Originally posted by HiTheNameIsBj
Hey G&T I was thinking of taking a portaband to the header flange, separating each port. What do ya think?
Originally posted by M3 Muscle
DON'T!!! I would imagine that during the welding process some slight distortion took place. When you separate the cylinders they are allowed to move into the distorted position. This would make it very difficult to get in place. Although in most cases having separate cylinders on the flange is optimal, the BMW M50 motors have so many head studs we really don't have problems with studs shearing with thermal expansion.
Good to know! Of course after you run the motor a few times and really lean on it the welding stresses will mostly be worked out. Are those headers coated with anything? It looks like it in the pictures. Maybe you mentioned it and I missed it somewhere.
Nothing fancy, he painted them, I'm going to wrap them, the downpipe, and put gold shielding on the charge piping. I may actually try something different and use copper for the hot side charge pipe. Reason being copper bleeds heat a lot better than aluminum and steel. I've done a ton of research and have a solution to the corrosion issue, also have full access to a hydraulic bender that can make smooth bends without kinking the copper. Pretty much the manifolds will be wrapped to retain heat/velocity, hotside copper to bleed as much heat as possible, and cold side shielded to reject heat.
You and me both, I really can't wait for winter break as I have pretty much a small stockpile of parts to put on this thing so I can make some serious progress. I'm sick of looking at a half assembled block, and an immobilized car in my driveway. That's if I can ever get my hands on these timing tools, I'm about to just buy them, I'll need them again when I build the NA franken motor for the e30. I found out my machinist can have the rod pin location moved outwards on a crank by welding and reshaping, similar to what is done to cams. This of course won't be started for sometime. I need to finish the turbo build up, and let my bank account recuperate.
I just love seeing shiny / clean engines / parts :) Good progress!
Easy Clean (made for ovens) is amazing stuff, spray it on, wait half an hour and rinse it off with water. For corners I agitate it with a plastic brush. Check out the oil pump pick up tube.
Before, caked on oil that just kinda smears when you use purple power
After
Same thing with the baffle
Note: the holes in the baffle are from me clearancing it to work with the crank/rod combo I have. They were smoothed before actual installation.
That's pretty cool! I hate cleaning shit,,, i just dump the pile of parts to a local machine shop as they charge me barely anything for tanking stuff ;) I just had cam trays done and they were only $5 out the door lol
oh wow that's awesome. My machine shop only fires the hot tank on if it's full, or your paying big dollars. He lets me use his safety clean for free, but I'd rather just do this at home. To be honest also I'm not very happy with the results from his hot tank, I was expecting my block to be immaculate, deffinitly not as clean as some I've seen. He says some guys use a type of acid, but it eats up aluminum, so he just uses a detergent.
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