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    #46
    I drove 84-85 M10 318i cars for about a decade and found that 1) exhaust guide wallowing, 2) oil pump, and 3) rod bearings all needed a refresh at about 175-200K.

    The early (1984) M10 318i had a problem whereby the idle shot up on start-up and trashed the rod bearings over time. Your E21 had CIS on it so maybe that was not a problem.

    I would check the oil pump (just need feeler gauges) and have the machinist look for ova-led/wallowed exhaust guides.

    The engines are very durable - I would call these items maintenance. I have seen engines well past 225K with no ridge on the cylinders come back to life after a head refresh. Many engines will blow the bottom end out upon a head refresh (the tight new head can stress the bottom end beyond it's higher mileage limits).
    Last edited by packratbimmer; 02-14-2016, 09:04 AM. Reason: perfection

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      #47
      Looks like this is going to get involved. I started to really look at the head I have to make sure it's good. There is definitely some rust on one of the exhaust valves. Don't trust it. Plan now is to pull the cam out and get a valve job done.

      When I drained the oil in the new to me motor the first thing that came out was a bunch of water. Probably going to end up disassembling that too and put new rings and bearings. Still hoping I can be into it less than $500 in parts.

      I was looking at rock auto for everything. Any brands to avoid for rings and bearings? What about a head gasket? Anyone know of a decent gasket set to get or just piece one together?

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        #48
        Goetze gaskets

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          #49
          Having trouble finding Goetze gaskets. They are listed on rockauto but you can't add it to the cart. Any links if it isn't too much trouble?

          What about Elring? Or Fel-Pro? I found upper and lower gasket sets for under $100.

          As far as bearings go I was looking at ITM on rockauto. Anyone have experience with those?

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            #50
            I got a Goetze M44 valve cover gasket in a FelPro box once.. Honestly, I've had a good experience with Felpro. There is a lot of negative press on Victor Reinz and Elring head gaskets, but I have used both with success. I'm pretty strict about clean flat surfaces though! I also do a light coat of copper spray on both sides of the head gasket (not too much). The Goetze M20 head gasket is clearly higher quality upon inspection, but I'm not sure about differences in the M10.

            Try RM European - I like them because they offer the different manufacturers and have good prices. You will get specifically what you order, not what is convenient for them. Some vendors can send any brand.

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              #51
              ITM= junk, for the most part.

              t
              now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

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                #52
                Originally posted by packratbimmer View Post
                I got a Goetze M44 valve cover gasket in a FelPro box once.. Honestly, I've had a good experience with Felpro. There is a lot of negative press on Victor Reinz and Elring head gaskets, but I have used both with success. I'm pretty strict about clean flat surfaces though! I also do a light coat of copper spray on both sides of the head gasket (not too much). The Goetze M20 head gasket is clearly higher quality upon inspection, but I'm not sure about differences in the M10.

                Try RM European - I like them because they offer the different manufacturers and have good prices. You will get specifically what you order, not what is convenient for them. Some vendors can send any brand.
                Thanks for the tip. I took a look at RM European, but they didn't have much.

                Originally posted by TobyB View Post
                ITM= junk, for the most part.

                t
                Any suggestions to a better manufacturer? The thought has also crossed my mind to just check the bearings that are in there now and if they're in spec to just reuse them.

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                  #53

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                    #54
                    Welp, now I feel dumb haha Thanks for the link!!!

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                      #55
                      No such thing as a dumb question!!!

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                        #56
                        Time for an update I suppose. Fixing this got put on the back burner when I had to move. Never got around to talking to the machine shop about going through my head and it turns out I'm glad I didn't.

                        Was browsing the local craigslist and ended up finding a E30 parts car. Picked it up for $400. Same year and everything. Got t-boned on the passenger side. Still ran great. There are a lot of decent parts on the car and I am swapping the motor over to my car. Should be able to make most of my money back parting it out. Going to have plenty of spare parts now too :)

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                          #57
                          Score!!!!

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                            #58
                            Time for an update. I have the "new" motor all in. Everything is hooked up but when I try to crank it over I get nothing. Doesn't even try to crank. All the lights on the dash are on the whole time. I'm going to charge up the battery, but does anyone have an idea what else could cause something like this?

                            Could it be this wire? I can't remember where it goes.




                            Any input is appreciated!!

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                              #59
                              That goes to the bottom rear rocker cover stud, the one in the upper right of that picture. It's one of the engine grounds. You should have more than that single one.

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                                #60
                                Originally posted by hornhospital View Post
                                That goes to the bottom rear rocker cover stud, the one in the upper right of that picture. It's one of the engine grounds. You should have more than that single one.
                                Cool, that's what I thought but wasn't sure. There is another ground cable on the other side, from the corner of the oil pan to the inner fender. I'll take a look at that one again. Seemed fine when I installed it but could be dirty.

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