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APEX | 17" 4-Lug ARC-8 Pre Group-Buy Discussion Thread

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    Originally posted by ian e30 318is View Post
    My vote for 17x9 would be et10 since you need at least et12 to clear the front strut per KA Motors. I would love to run these with some flares and no spacers. :devil:
    Also agree
    Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

    Daily: 06 Chevy Colorado (wannabe racetruck)
    Drift/Track Car: 91 Bmw 318i 4dr

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      Would Apex just take my money already.


      Originally posted by blunttech
      Dude this is r3v. 20 bucks gets you a used timing belt or a low mileage head gasket

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        As much as I love not needing spacers, et10 would really limit the use of that wheel. It wouldn't fit under rolled rear arches, so flares and hacking quarter panels would be required. With et20-25ish, you could use it in the rear, and you could still use it in the front with 5-10mm spacers. Just my 2 cents...
        85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
        e30 restoration and V8 swap
        24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

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          Originally posted by PaintPro21 View Post
          I will have BBK clearance tested at ET10. It's possible at that offset that they will fit, as that's like adding a spacer to the more typical offsets we expected.

          I'll report back next week with details.
          Awesome! Very excited to hear back.


          Originally posted by mrcheezle19 View Post
          Would Apex just take my money already.
          I would buy these tomorrow if they were made tonight.

          1991 LS1 Swapped 318is
          Instagram:
          https://instagram.com/saltybeast/
          LS Build Thread:
          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...s-e30-ls1-swap

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            I would use my coilover money for these wheels......
            Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

            Daily: 06 Chevy Colorado (wannabe racetruck)
            Drift/Track Car: 91 Bmw 318i 4dr

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              Originally posted by JGood View Post
              As much as I love not needing spacers, et10 would really limit the use of that wheel. It wouldn't fit under rolled rear arches, so flares and hacking quarter panels would be required. With et20-25ish, you could use it in the rear, and you could still use it in the front with 5-10mm spacers. Just my 2 cents...

              I agree with this.


              Originally posted by blunttech
              Dude this is r3v. 20 bucks gets you a used timing belt or a low mileage head gasket

              Comment


                Originally posted by JGood View Post
                As much as I love not needing spacers, et10 would really limit the use of that wheel. It wouldn't fit under rolled rear arches, so flares and hacking quarter panels would be required. With et20-25ish, you could use it in the rear, and you could still use it in the front with 5-10mm spacers. Just my 2 cents...
                Spacers add another $100-150 per pair of wheels. Paint Pro, would it be possible (or even make sense) to flow form an et10 17x9 and machine the offset to et20-25 for customers that want higher offset? Not sure what this does to cost on the Apex end. Just thinking out loud.

                1991 LS1 Swapped 318is
                Instagram:
                https://instagram.com/saltybeast/
                LS Build Thread:
                https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...s-e30-ls1-swap

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                  Also after looking up possible sizes to run I'm really feeling 255/40/17 tires because the offer good Street and track tires! And should fit well on a 17x9 with flares. maybe over kill for my m42.......... till it gets boosted
                  Last edited by Reub_e30; 05-20-2016, 09:34 AM.
                  Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                  Daily: 06 Chevy Colorado (wannabe racetruck)
                  Drift/Track Car: 91 Bmw 318i 4dr

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by JGood View Post
                    As much as I love not needing spacers, et10 would really limit the use of that wheel. It wouldn't fit under rolled rear arches, so flares and hacking quarter panels would be required. With et20-25ish, you could use it in the rear, and you could still use it in the front with 5-10mm spacers. Just my 2 cents...
                    I am 100% out on these wheels if I have to use spacers to clear a BBK. As previously mentioned in this thread--all four arches on my car have been cut off. The fronts are very difficult to screw up. The rears require a bit more finesse, but it is not hard to cleanly reweld and reseal the inner and outer fender with a bit of patience. There is always the 17x8 option for those who don't want to do more than a mild roll.
                    '91 318is M52 Turbo (in pieces)

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                      Why? I mean nothing unsafe with proper spacers/studs. Been running Motorsport Hardware stuff on my drift car for years now. Never a problem.

                      Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
                      -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

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                        I agree that there's nothing unsafe--assuming you're running hubcentric. My issue is really more of an annoyance: it's a track car with brakes that get really hot--as the hub, spacer, and wheel all expand at slightly different rates they tend to seize together. While this isn't the end of the world, I have grown tired of beating the hell out of my hubs/wheels with a dead blow to get everything apart.

                        I would be entertaining two sets of these wheels for easy change outs, I don't want spacers stuck inside the hubs of my wheels. That, coupled with none of my current wheels needing spacers to work, not really needing another set of wheels, and not wanting to pay for spacers I don't already have, I would be out. I have motorsports hardware studs and have been happy with them.


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                        '91 318is M52 Turbo (in pieces)

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                          I know the feeling, especially with drifting and changing wheels. Just figured sometimes people feel it's a safety issue. Ryan now makes some track lite spacers which might alleviate the issue, Might try em out.

                          Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
                          -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

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                            While I haven't tried Ryan's, I'm assuming they have milled pockets to kill surface area? Been there, did that haha. Thanks for the suggestion, though!

                            So, Apex, please build us wheels we don't need spacers for?
                            Last edited by chondamx; 05-20-2016, 09:02 PM. Reason: Booze
                            '91 318is M52 Turbo (in pieces)

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                              Yeah, Ryan (Motorsport Hardware) exactaly. Do they also stick? I assume it's more of a hub issue that makes em stick more then anything else?

                              Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
                              -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

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                                They do still stick, but to be fair, it's usually the hub side like you're thinking. Steel and aluminum always get finicky when exposed to heat together.
                                '91 318is M52 Turbo (in pieces)

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