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S52 OBD1 Flooding Running Very Rich - SOLVED

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    S52 OBD1 Flooding Running Very Rich - SOLVED

    Car: 1987 325is "C104 plug"
    Engine: 1998 M3 S52B32 with OBD1 conversion
    ECU: M50 Red Label 413 - 1994 325i auto
    Transmission: Getrag G260
    Harness: 1994 325i auto

    Mods:
    SSSquid Stg-2 Chip for 413 Red Label
    Sunbelt Stg-2 Cams
    Ford Bluetop 24# Injectors
    M50 Manifold
    3.5" HFM
    eBay Longtubes with single o2 at X-pipe

    ------------------------

    Car will turn over and run if accelerator is pressed, but dumps an absurd amount of fuel regardless of throttle position and will flood out and die if you try to let it idle. This is regardless of using the stock ECU chip and/or the stock small E36 injectors. I'm stuck between the fuel pressure regulator having gone bad "worked great in 94 325i donor car", or maybe temp sensor is bad. We installed the brown temp sensor in one of the two ports on the head, but I keep hearing mixed signals on whether the blue one stays, or the black one stays, or if the brown sensor is even necessary.
    Last edited by Torquenstein; 09-19-2017, 09:29 AM. Reason: Fixed issue

    #2
    The brown/black 1 pin sensor is for the gauge cluster.

    The blue sensor is necessary to send temp information to the DME.

    Originally posted by whysimon
    WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by FredK View Post
      The brown/black 1 pin sensor is for the gauge cluster.

      The blue sensor is necessary to send temp information to the DME.
      Yep, that's what we originally assumed as well and the way its currently setup. However, it still dumps fuel like there's no tomorrow.

      Are there vacuum lines removed that could cause a state like this?

      Comment


        #4
        I don't think a vacuum leak would cause the engine to dump an insane amount of fuel in, although a vac leak would make idling very difficult.

        I'd recheck the temperature sensor wiring to ensure the correct plugs were mated to the correct sensors. I think it's possible to plug in the evap valve, IAT, DME temperature sensor, and gauge temperature sensor, and oil pressure sender all into the same 2 pin connector.

        What you can do is to pry the rubber boot back on the plugs and look at the wire color. The wire colors may be slightly different than the ones listed below, but they should be close:

        oil pressure sensor BRN/GRN or BRN/GRY
        front coolant temperature sensor (ECU) BRN/RED BRN
        rear coolant temperature sensor (Gauge Sensor) BRN/YEL BRN/VIO
        crank position sensor YEL
        cam position sensor YEL RED/WHT BRN/ORG
        VANOS solenoid RED/WHT GRN/BLU
        knock sensor, 1-3 BLK NCA DME PIN 70
        knock sensor, 4-6 BLK NCA DME PIN 69
        throttle position sensor (TPS) BRN BRN/BLK RED/YEL
        intake air temperature (IAT) sensor BRN GRY
        idle control valve (ICV) WHT/YEL RED/WHT WHT/GRN
        Evaporative emissions valve BRN RED/WHT

        Originally posted by whysimon
        WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by FredK View Post
          I don't think a vacuum leak would cause the engine to dump an insane amount of fuel in, although a vac leak would make idling very difficult.

          I'd recheck the temperature sensor wiring to ensure the correct plugs were mated to the correct sensors. I think it's possible to plug in the evap valve, IAT, DME temperature sensor, and gauge temperature sensor, and oil pressure sender all into the same 2 pin connector.

          What you can do is to pry the rubber boot back on the plugs and look at the wire color. The wire colors may be slightly different than the ones listed below, but they should be close:

          oil pressure sensor BRN/GRN or BRN/GRY
          front coolant temperature sensor (ECU) BRN/RED BRN
          rear coolant temperature sensor (Gauge Sensor) BRN/YEL BRN/VIO
          crank position sensor YEL
          cam position sensor YEL RED/WHT BRN/ORG
          VANOS solenoid RED/WHT GRN/BLU
          knock sensor, 1-3 BLK NCA DME PIN 70
          knock sensor, 4-6 BLK NCA DME PIN 69
          throttle position sensor (TPS) BRN BRN/BLK RED/YEL
          intake air temperature (IAT) sensor BRN GRY
          idle control valve (ICV) WHT/YEL RED/WHT WHT/GRN
          Evaporative emissions valve BRN RED/WHT
          This was right on the money. I had the IAT sensor plugged into the wrong port. Immediately started running right once plugged into the right place.

          Thank you!

          Comment


            #6
            Sweet dude, now do some burnouts!

            Originally posted by whysimon
            WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

            Comment

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