Originally posted by Wanganstyle
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E36 M3 brake all around, 25mm BMC, PEDAL STILL SPONGEY!!
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Wanganstyle is spot on and you really should just change your MC. Who gives a shit if he was rude, grow some thicker skin dude.
Soft Pedal = Air in the lines or Bad MC
Hard Pedal = Bad Booster
Also, what is the thickness of your brake rotors?Originally posted by BillBraskyE36's are the Stephen Baldwin of the 3 series family. They barely hold everything together and they only sold a lot because of the popularity of their older sibling.
1989 325i Cirrusblau - Daily
1970 2500 - Malaga over Grey Cloth
2012 F350 6.7PSD
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Only one with a extremely high IQ will defend upside down brake calipers as being "bled right"
I think op is doomed here
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now FreeOBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25
Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30
Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine
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Originally posted by BenM View PostWanganstyle is spot on and you really should just change your MC. Who gives a shit if he was rude, grow some thicker skin dude.
Soft Pedal = Air in the lines or Bad MC
Hard Pedal = Bad Booster
Also, what is the thickness of your brake rotors?
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Originally posted by rkettner View Postthat was not mentioned but yes, they do.
I would like to know how the ti trailing arms were modded maybe there was a slip up there.
Just for future reference, i once had to stop short and activated the abs. Ever since that happened the brakes are back to normal! Seems i had air in the lines going to the abs unit. Now The brakes grab right on top and im able to modulate the pressure fine. I dont even feel the need to change out the proportioning valve just yet.
Thanks for all your inputs gents:)
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So, to my chagrin, i still am working on fine tuning the brakes on the e30.
I installed a brand new ATE brake master cylinder.
I was unsuccessful in swapping the calipers to make the bleeder positioned upwards because when using 318ti trailing arms and e36 m3 rear calipers the brake line is directly in the way of the shock bolt.
A 90 degree elbow of some sort would allow for the brake lines to connect and therefore the bleeders would be pointed upwards, alas i have yet to find such an elbow. Which by the way, would realistically only relocate the bleeder screw about an inch upwards.
Ill have to snap some pictures to show everyone what I'm rambling about:)
Just to recap, i have rebuilt e36 m3 calipers all around.
A Wilwood proportioning valve that allows up to 57% pressure reduction to the rear.
A stock e30 brake booster.
I have even "tickled" the abs unit by grounding the black and black/white wires at the abs unit while key is in ignition, then a rebleed, to no avail.
Just to put it out there, I still feel safe driving the car; by no means would i intentionally put myself or other drivers at risk of not being able to stop in time.
My issue is the feedback from the pedal is less than inspiring. I'm becoming so desperate that i might just bring the car to a place with a GT1 that can properly tickle the abs into bleed mode and pay for a professional power bleeding.
Any thought Gents?
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I'm still confused about what you're actually feeling from the pedal.
Is the throw too long? That is because your master cylinder doesn't move fluid as fast as the one typically used with the calipers you have.
Does it never firm up? Have you tried a pressure bleeder instead of a vacuum bleeder?
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His rear brake calipers are installed upside down. Brake calipers installed upside down with bleed nipples pointing down will never ever bleed properly.
One could try to unbolt caliper and bleed it rightside up with a rotor (out of the car) and then reinstall it....upside down? ???
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using TapatalkOBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25
Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30
Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine
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dude, before you keep speculating, you need to listen to couple folks here: Flip the calipers! (swapping to other side)
Rule #1 with brakes: all bleeders MUST be facing up, or on top to be more clear.
bleed, then you can proceed, but you have a classic case of AIR in the rear lines, no reason to over complicate issue.
factory F/R bias based on the MC piston sizes internally, in the 25mm master with equal pistons (735iL were heavy in the ass) you have much more rear bias than stock MC, therefore if there is air in the rear lines, you get sponge bob
Edit: Also, when bleeding, make sure you close the valve before your friend's foot reaches the full stroke, if his/her foot on pedal bottoms out before you close the bleeder, some air will get in.Last edited by franky2fingaz; 02-26-2014, 06:43 AM.
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