Nice work Sean. Makes me wish I did the bottom end this time around - should have, since the head was completely redone, and now there's a slight tick that's got me real nervous. Taking it to Schneller in a day or two to have a look, see if maybe I'm just paranoid.
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I am doing the same thing. I have an i head and super eta bottom end. All my stuff is in the machine shop right now. I am going to put a cam in from top end performance, ie headers, m30 airflow meter 19lb injectors and a chip from dsylva. My goal is 160 whp but from what I hear it may not be realistic.
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Originally posted by evoe46m3I am doing the same thing. I have an i head and super eta bottom end. All my stuff is in the machine shop right now. I am going to put a cam in from top end performance, ie headers, m30 airflow meter 19lb injectors and a chip from dsylva. My goal is 160 whp but from what I hear it may not be realistic.- Sean Hayes
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Originally posted by evoe46m3Ya my dad is a mechanic and I make sure he is supervising so I dont make any expensive mistakes.:D
That, and...breaking a ring isn't exactly expensive ($90 max - possibly only $15) - but it's just a hassle, having to wait another 4 days. :-\- Sean Hayes
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Originally posted by SeanAbout torqueing that crankshaft bolt.
My friends suggested just throwing some red loctite on it, and hittin it with my impact gun until it doesn't budge anymore. Does that sound like a good idea - or no?
I like the idea using a breaker bar with a 4' pipe. it you can even calculate how much force you are putting on it - say you weigh 185lbs, to put 320 ft-lbs (and it's +/- 15 so there's a good range there) you'd need to put all your weight on a ~1.75' pipe. I used this method for my ix front hub nuts, which are supposed to be 240ft-lbs, and it was never an issue - I didn't even have lockplates on them.
just be careful where you brace your crank, you don't want to damage your new bearings.
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Originally posted by nandoif that were good enough, I think BMW would have done it - locktite was around back then too. I wouldn't want to try and get the crank nut off later on, either.
I like the idea using a breaker bar with a 4' pipe. it you can even calculate how much force you are putting on it - say you weigh 185lbs, to put 320 ft-lbs (and it's +/- 15 so there's a good range there) you'd need to put all your weight on a ~1.75' pipe. I used this method for my ix front hub nuts, which are supposed to be 240ft-lbs, and it was never an issue - I didn't even have lockplates on them.
just be careful where you brace your crank, you don't want to damage your new bearings.
I think I'm just going to jam a piece of wood in there or something. I need to figure it out.
Sounds like a good idea, I've been in physics, I can definately figure that out.- Sean Hayes
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Ball peen hammer... wedged bewteen the crank and block works well... u'll just shatter the wood block.
I prefer 2 use a shifting spanner on the rear of the crank, and a pole on the other, and just hold the shifting spanner with all ur weight, while someone else jumps on the pole on the other end :p
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