Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Bottom's up M20B27 e2i Build

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #31
    Another topic: Exhaust manifolds.

    Note this from RealOEM for an 87 528e:



    Maytag came with two of the 11621711711 (up to 3/87; Maytag was built 7/86).

    It appears that a Super Eta (88 528e) and E30 325is had asymetric manifolds. In my engine collections I have one set with embossed part numbers that don't show up in search! (1710824 and 1710836).

    I assume the existing manifolds I have (711) will work fine with the e2i engine?
    Vlad: '87 535isMaytag: '87 528e'88 911Project Minerva - S54 E28

    Comment


      #32
      Son of a &#?!$&@ bitch!

      The water pump I bought, based on the realoem part number for an 88 528e is the wrong one.

      It does not have the second port for the overflow tank.

      Searching shows this is a common problem because the ETK is wrong.

      So much has to come back off again.

      Sure glad I decided to test fit all hoses before installing motor in car.
      Vlad: '87 535isMaytag: '87 528e'88 911Project Minerva - S54 E28

      Comment


        #33
        All done. At least until I get the old motor out of Maytag, and attempt to put this one in only to discovery I forgot something/screwed up.









        Vlad: '87 535isMaytag: '87 528e'88 911Project Minerva - S54 E28

        Comment


          #34
          Now I'm truly committed.



          Part of this effort is to get rid of these awful things. Yes, I had to learn the lesson the hard way. BC Racing coil-overs suck.

          Billie Sports and Spax springs will be going in.



          I have this incredible feeling of deja vu.



          Totally lame the backsides of the new hubs I installed earlier this year are already so rusted they are throwing rust everywhere. Imma going to fix that this time.
          Vlad: '87 535isMaytag: '87 528e'88 911Project Minerva - S54 E28

          Comment


            #35
            This happened. OBX M20 headers. We'll see how they fit in the car, but the quality isn't half bad.





            Then I got everything disconnected and was able to use my lift-cart and amazeballs cradle to drop the old motor out. Easiest engine extraction ever.



            Here's CJ playing with the stick.




            Left a big gaping hole that I now need to clean fastidiously:












            Vlad: '87 535isMaytag: '87 528e'88 911Project Minerva - S54 E28

            Comment


              #36
              This is not the first time I've heard this: "The Super Eta exhaust manifolds are bigger/better than Eta". I don't think they are any bigger. They are certainly shaped differently and may flow differently but the ID of the pipe is exactly the same. Top picture is the flange that connects the 1987 Eta downpipe to the manifold. The bottom picture is the flange for a 1988 SuperEta.

              Eta:


              SuperEta:


              I should use a caliper, but it looks like ~1.75 *ID*.

              I've been working through the design of the exhaust and decided to measure the OBX header down pipes. Internet description says "2.5 OD" but that would be insane for an M20. I measured. 1.75" OD. Actually SMALLER than both the down pipes above:


              Right now I'm thinking I'll return the OBX Headers and just go with the 325i manifolds I have.


              The SuperEta exhaust is in the middle (the exhaust on the right is from the turbo M30 car I parted out; Stromug). Note I'm missing the front down pipe to manifold connector piece. Anyone got a Seta exhaust lying around with this piece on it you'd be willing to give up?


              The thinking is I'll use the Seta downpipe to the cat (where the hanger is) putting in a 45 degree mandrel to a Mangaflow 12268 (5x8x18 24" OAL) or 12368 (5x8x24" 30" OAL) as a 'resonator'. I like the idea of a little more sound suppression from the larger muffler, but not sure of what the cons might be (or if it'll be too long; haven't measured yet).

              Then from there I'll use some 2.5" pipe and 2 45 degree mandrel to a Magnaflow 12866 (5x5x14" 20" OAL) and weld on dual tips (this is what @Joel323 did on @plndr's 533):




              The Super Eta exhaust is dual all the way back.

              The Eta exhaust is dual to just after the cat.

              I think I'm going to just use the downpipe from the Eta and fab up a dual (or single 2.5") from the resonator back.

              (I have not been able to source a Super Eta downpipe that isn't missing a part like mine is).



              Super Eta/Eta manifolds have an inlet ID of 42mm and an outlet ID of 33mm:





              Obx Inlet ID is 37mm.

              Obx Outlet ID is 42mm.






              Initially, so I can get the car off the lift as soon as possible, I'm just going to use the Eta exhaust as-is, as was the original plan.
              Vlad: '87 535isMaytag: '87 528e'88 911Project Minerva - S54 E28

              Comment


                #37
                Blunt sent me the wrong flywheel bolts. Dammit. I was hoping to have this all put together by tomorrow afternoon.



                I did discover my crank has the old school, felt-based pilot bearing. I also discovered that 12 grain bread with little seeds works fine getting pilot bearings out.

                Vlad: '87 535isMaytag: '87 528e'88 911Project Minerva - S54 E28

                Comment


                  #38
                  I am struggling with the fact the clutch pedal disengages clutch too high and how to resolve. I learned a bunch (and discovered there are two variants of getrag 260/5; one with a 5mm deeper bell-housing). But I am still unsure why my engagement point is wrong. I'm moving ahead with what I think will address it: Switching to the shorter variant of the throw out bearing.

                  For future reference (for me when I forget and search this thread to remember), here's the specs on the transmission in this car:

                  Transmission on Maytag
                  PN on Bellhousing: 260.0.1270.90
                  VIN: WBAAB5407H9696074
                  Model: 1986-07-31 US 325E (not a 528e as I had previously thought)
                  Housing PN from RealOEM: 23111222657
                  T/O Bearing PN from RealOEM: 21517521471
                  OAL (output shaft to bell-housing face): 55mm
                  Bell-housing length (rear casing front to bell-housing face): 37.5mm
                  Bell-housing depth (slave face to bell-housing face): 17mm



                  Got the right flywheel bolts from blunt.




                  Hooked transmission up. Used the right greases on the splines and TO bearing.


                  Tried another test-fitting lifting the engine and transmission up through the bottom with the lift table. Realized everything would go much more smoothly if I modified my cradle to mount the assembly further forward; will give more clearance with the front of my 4-post lift.

                  Always love a chance to get the welding table out!


                  A bit of the grinding wheel and some fresh welds and I set the engine/tranny back on. Much better balance too.




                  Got the starter installed and hooked up the PS hoses. Everything that needs to go together before it goes in the car is now done. But before I can put it in I need to do a few more things in the engine bay, including installing a new resistor pack. You'll recall my heater fan "races" to full speed at random times any time it is on. I expected the old resistor pack to look super rusty or destroyed. It actually looks fine. Hopefully this actually fixes the problem.



                  Vlad: '87 535isMaytag: '87 528e'88 911Project Minerva - S54 E28

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Before:


                    After:


                    When I replaced the fuel lines I skipped these two because I was lazy. Always felt bad about that. Fixed.


                    Two buddies came by today and helped me manoeuvre the engine and tranny into place as I used a combination of the lift and lift table. It took a bit of finagling, but in the end went smoothly...

                    Ta-fucking-da!




                    Put oil in and then went to lunch. When I got back there was a big puddle of oil on the floor.

                    I put the wrong o-ring in for the oil level sensor. It was obvious once I pulled it and looked. I *knew* I had bought one, so I poked around and found this little baggie. Whew.



                    Fuel lines, PS lines, and most electrics are connected. Then I ran out of time for the weekend. Glad I kept the fuse box from the Super Eta I parted out so that I could have this bracket.



                    Specs:
                    • M20B27 block bored "40 over" (86mm)
                    • Custom pistons: (9.5:1 compression)
                    • Max-speeding 130mm h-beam rods
                    • 885 head with 3-sided valve grind
                    • Stock camshaft
                    • Cometic C4394-070 0.07" Thick MLS Head Gasket
                    • Arp studs
                    • 325i injectors
                    • 173 ECU (stock for now)
                    • Exhaust: TBD
                    Vlad: '87 535isMaytag: '87 528e'88 911Project Minerva - S54 E28

                    Comment


                      #40
                      I seriously effed up.

                      On the 88 528e Super-Eta harness, there is a ground wire that goes directly to the negative terminal on the battery. G103.

                      I didn't notice this, or think it through, or something, because guess where I hooked it up to?

                      I hooked it up with the positive wires on the positive terminal of the battery.

                      I was going to spin the motor over using Pins 11/14 in the diagnostics port, to ensure the starter was working and verify I was getting oil pressure.

                      I hooked up the battery (with a charger on it...) and I got smoke. Lots of it. Some from what looked like the timing belt area and some from the oil level sensor, where the ground wire melted all the way through. There was a little pop from down there and it was either that wire going, or the oil level sensor going bad.

                      So now I'm wondering just how badly I damaged my wiring harness. I have been tracing through the ETM for an hour trying to see where G103 goes to and where in the harness I should look to see what I fried.

                      I think, to be safe, I'm going to need to completely replace the SuperEta harness... I have another, but it's not in as good of shape.

                      Heavy sigh.





                      In good news, I was able to get the engine to turn over with the starter (after putting G103 on the negative terminal of the battery).
                      Vlad: '87 535isMaytag: '87 528e'88 911Project Minerva - S54 E28

                      Comment


                        #41
                        In studying the ETM I have identified all the components that connect to the BR wire going to G103 that might have been destroyed by having +12V with high amps going through them the wrong way. Many potential components were 'spared' (i think) because the ECU was not connected.

                        This diagram shows some:



                        Not-affected:
                        - ECU (wasn't connected)
                        - O2 sensor (wasn't connected)
                        - Diagnostic connector (cap was off and nothing was connected)

                        Affected:
                        - Oil Level Sensor - for sure affected, as the ground wire completely melted and I heard it pop).
                        - Coolant temp sensor - if it's not fried, then the .5br wire to it probably is. Is the coolant temp sensor normally open? If so it may be ok.

                        More:


                        Affected:
                        - Coil - it's very possible the smoke I saw (lots of it) coming from the timing belt area was the 2.5 BK that goes to the coil, as it runs in front of the timing belt cover. This will be easy to verify. I have another coil so will swap in anyway.
                        - Cylinder Identification Sensor - Like the coil wire, it's entirely possible this wire got fried (it is part of the spark plug wires, meaning I will need to replace them). Also runs in front of the timing belt cover.
                        - Engine Speed Sensor - I bet this is toast for sure (or at least the wires leading to it).

                        All the wires I can find that go to G103 for the 88 MY are BR. But you'll note in the picture I posted above there's both a BR and a BR/Y wire in that bundle. I can't find ANY BR/Y wires in the ETM. Does anyone have any idea where that wire might go?

                        Replacing the harness with the other one I have will be a bear, but mostly time consuming. I'm hoping I can do it without taking the intake manifold off...

                        I also don't think the CTS or loom wire sensor were impacted.

                        Here's the oil level sensor ground wire. It melted pretty far up into the harness; I've now pulled insulation all the way off to where it goes into the big bundle. FWIW, there's oil in there so the static switch (pin 1, BU/VI) is closed and the dynamic switch is open (Pin 2, BU/VI) [Page 6212-2].







                        The visible damage to the BR wire stops about where you see it in my hand.

                        No damage can be seen in any of the wires that go across the timing belt (Oil temp, coil).

                        If that were it, I'd actually think all I need to do was splice in a new ground wire for the oil level sensor...
                        Vlad: '87 535isMaytag: '87 528e'88 911Project Minerva - S54 E28

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Woot! Woot! Woot!

                          After repairing the harness (and testing everything I could... see above), I got it all back together and realized there was nothing left but to try a start. No coolant or exhaust but if it started I'd run it only for a few seconds anyway...

                          Wire repair (snipped connector from spare harness):




                          I tried to start it. It cranked, but seemed like no spark. Tested fuel pump relay (ok), main relay (ok), coil (ok), but got no spark to a spare spark plug... Tried a backup ECU. No joy.

                          Only thing left, really, is the reference sensor. I should have tested it before I put it in the car. Duh. Tested bad.

                          Had a spare. Tested good.

                          Put it in and tried again:

                          First Start Video

                          This makes me soooo happy! I have travel next week and won't be able to wrench again until the week after. If I had to wait all that time not knowing if I had destroyed something with my error, it would have ruined me.

                          Oil pressure light went off almost immediately. Yay.

                          Now all I gotta do is:

                          - Get a 7K tach and get the cluster back in.
                          - Final attach the driveshaft
                          - Install the exhaust
                          - Install coolant hoses
                          - Reinstall radiator
                          - Add coolant
                          - Drive! (?)
                          Vlad: '87 535isMaytag: '87 528e'88 911Project Minerva - S54 E28

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Congrats on the first start. I love seeing a proper m20 build. Keep it up!

                            Originally posted by 2mAn
                            The BMW V6 is the best

                            Comment


                              #44
                              FWIW, here's the 'final' specs:

                              Specs:
                              • M20B27 block bored "40 over" (86mm)
                              • Wisco custom pistons, based on C&D Performance's Pro3 design & tweaked for 9.5:1 compression
                              • Max-speeding 130mm h-beam rods
                              • 885 head with 3-sided valve grind
                              • Stock camshaft
                              • Cometic C4394-070 0.07" Thick MLS Head Gasket
                              • Arp studs
                              • 325i injectors
                              • 380 ECU (stock for now; planning D'syliva tune)
                              • Exhaust: TBD
                              Vlad: '87 535isMaytag: '87 528e'88 911Project Minerva - S54 E28

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Originally posted by cek View Post
                                FWIW, here's the 'final' specs:

                                Specs:
                                • M20B27 block bored "40 over" (86mm)
                                • Wisco custom pistons, based on C&D Performance's Pro3 design & tweaked for 9.5:1 compression
                                • Max-speeding 130mm h-beam rods
                                • 885 head with 3-sided valve grind
                                • Stock camshaft
                                • Cometic C4394-070 0.07" Thick MLS Head Gasket
                                • Arp studs
                                • 325i injectors
                                • 380 ECU (stock for now; planning D'syliva tune)
                                • Exhaust: TBD
                                I might be copying you.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X