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Old 09-04-2007, 08:56 PM   #16
rThor432
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I just use penetrating oil and a hammer. Replaced a bent tie rod the other day no problem. The hammer wasnt really necessary, but I dont care.

What day at the shop would be complete without the hammer making at least one appearance?
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Old 09-06-2007, 09:08 AM   #17
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Quote:
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word. you have to whack the strut housing a couple of times before hitting the tie rod.
Instead, not before.
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Old 09-07-2007, 11:26 AM   #18
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The only thing that I don't like about hammering it out is that I can't get enough of a backswing to really hit that thing like I want to. Turning the wheel all the way to one side helps but it does not really give me enough comfortable clearence without the fear of hitting the body.
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Old 09-08-2007, 02:22 AM   #19
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but it does not really give me enough comfortable clearence without the fear of hitting the body.
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Originally Posted by mikeedler View Post
or your hitting the wrong place.
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Old 09-08-2007, 10:07 AM   #20
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Another thing is the style of whacking. You are better off hitting with a "pop" rather than a "thunk"...so not follow through, see?

It is also easier if you start off with a pry bar (and someone else prying) between the ball joint and the subframe/control arm to apply some tension on it before you hit it. If you do this, PUT THE NUT BACK ON a few threads, otherwise, that sucker is gonna fly.

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Old 09-13-2007, 02:19 AM   #21
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Pry bar applying pressure + sharp hammer blows work great as luke said.

I just bought this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=250134853213

works perfect on tie rods and outer ball joints are a bit of a squeeze but it works.
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Old 04-05-2011, 09:52 AM   #22
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I'll be doing this soon, so just to be clear:

I'm going to be hitting whatever the tie-rod is connected to outward, or perpendicular to the direction the car is facing if the wheels are straight?
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Old 04-05-2011, 11:30 AM   #23
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Holy necrothread batman.
When you see it, You'll understand. All you need to do is go down with the tie rod. regardless of wheel direction. I prefer pickle forks. As I'd just rather replace the tie rod if I'm taking it off, and it's stuck on there.
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Old 04-05-2011, 11:43 AM   #24
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I've used pickle forks for years, even got a pickle fork attachment for my air hammer.

But the ONE TIME I didn't want to jack something up, I bought the tool pictured in previous posts. It WORKS. It's WORTH the $$.
Cuts the time, not the boot.
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:03 PM   #25
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I can both respect the tool, and the owner, for increased laziness and ease.
Might have to get one eventually
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Old 04-05-2011, 02:29 PM   #26
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ive not had a problem with the hammer method.
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Old 04-05-2011, 06:25 PM   #27
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Old 04-05-2011, 07:46 PM   #28
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That tool looks ideal.


I've had the best luck whacking the strut housing just forward of where the tie rod inserts. Spray the area area with a rust-busting solvent first and don't mash the threads... Use a brass mallet.
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Old 04-05-2011, 08:58 PM   #29
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I use the hammer method. I've gone at it for a while before, but it always comes through in the end. Suppose it's not a bit deal b/c I'm only down there a couple times a year.
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Old 04-05-2011, 09:39 PM   #30
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anti-sieze things upon installation.

(make it easier for yourself or future owner down the road)
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