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    Well I did a stupid.

    Just so mad that I need to share my idiotic move yesterday.

    On a Volvo 5 cyl twin cam, you install a cam locking tool at the back of the cams to keep everything from rotating while you take off the 88 ft-lb cam wheel bolts at the VVT front end of the engine. All guides say to bolt it in really tight.

    Well, I sheared off a bolt deep INSIDE the camshaft. Didn't think to question the quality of this tool and that maybe I should have bought hardened bolts.

    Now I'm stuck. Pull the top of the head and hope to get an easy out in there....??

    #2
    pics

    Turbo M42 Build Thread :Here
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    Originally posted by lambo
    Buttchug. The official poster child of r3v.

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      #3
      ^ Its hard to advice without a picture.

      Generally, never use a easy out, that too will break too and you'll be in an even worse position.

      Depending where/how it broke your options:

      1. weld a nut on to the stub
      2. Left handed drill bit (quality bit from fastenal)

      Any threads you mess up can be time-serted.
      Your resource to do-it-yourself and interesting bmw and e30 stuff: www.rtsauto.com

      Your resource to tools and tips: www.rtstools.com

      Comment


        #4
        Here is the situation.....

        This is the back of a Volvo head. I bought this car used recently with 125,000 mi and it's dirty. The front cam seals are leaking very badly. It has dual VVT. The upper motor mount, both cam position sensors, their covers, and the tone rings have been removed here.
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        This is the exhaust cam - the bolt end is inside that hole. Nothing to grab.
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        This is the tool. The teeth lock into the slots in the backs of the cams to hold them while you mark your VVT travel.
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        18-19mm of bolt is missing. I'm curious about the markings on the bolt that didn't shear - was it starting to spin? Is it bottoming in the hole? Is the bolt too short and those are the only threads engaged? If only two or three threads, how was there enough torque to shear it off?
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        This is a guide recommended by Volvo guys - says right in there, make these bolts tight, the VVT cam bolts are on with 88 ft-lbs.
        CVVT Hub Setting Guide - Rev2.pdf

        This recommended video, by a Volvo specialty shop, clearly shows the guy snugging them up pretty tight with two hands. I used one hand on a 3/8 ratchet and it turned and snapped. Just watch from 2:00 to 2:38.


        I was mostly ranting because I feel so stupid, but if you all have some ideas, I'm all ears. The top half of the head separates and holds the cams - there are no bearing caps. No gasket, it's a roll-on sealant layer between. I assume you have to start over with cam timing and VVT set-up if you take it apart.

        This was a relatively easy seal replacement job.........ugh.

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          #5
          Never had these problems on Redblock engines...


          ...ijs
          If it's got tits or tires, it's gonna cost ya!

          Comment


            #6
            Exactly.

            Days like this make me want to move towards restoring a 122 wagon.

            Comment


              #7
              WOW..... Depends on 1 thing, is the bolt thats left in the cam bottomed out or not.

              If not, then you stand a good chance of getting it out with a left hand drill, or at worst an easy out since the head is snapped off there should not be any pressure on the threads and should turn back out easily if you can get a bite on it. A very small yet powerful magnet on a rod might even do it if you can make something.

              If its bottomed out in the hole and there for pressure on the threads you might still be able to get it with an easy out..... Though be careful to not snap your drill or easy out off
              these assume your not cross threaded, which I doubt you are I would bet you get it this way hopefully with the left hand drill right off the bat, with the cam still installed in the head Vs the other option below.

              If thats not going to get it, your going to have to pull the cam and do some fancy clamping and securing in your drill press ( I assume you dont have access to a lathe) and progressively drill out the offending bolt stub until you can chase the last bits out with the correct tap, and restore the threads. Or take it to a machine shop and have them do it.. or just getting a new cam might be cheaper and easier


              edit : the non sheared bolt looks like it hit the end of the threads in the hole, does that mean bottomed out???? likely
              Last edited by mrsleeve; 02-18-2018, 02:27 PM.
              Originally posted by Fusion
              If a car is the epitome of freedom, than an electric car is house arrest with your wife titty fucking your next door neighbor.
              The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money. -Alexis de Tocqueville


              The Desire to Save Humanity is Always a False Front for the Urge to Rule it- H. L. Mencken

              Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants.
              William Pitt-

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                #8
                Something has flattened the last two rows of threads. The rest of it looks unmarked, like it wasn't even engaged. Could these bolts be way too short?

                So is there any way a hand-held drill could align with the shaft and not totally chew the threads of the cam?

                Does a reverse bit just drill a hole, or does it grab the bolt end (low speed I assume) and back it out?
                Last edited by LateFan; 02-18-2018, 02:44 PM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  The end does't seem to be marked. Does that mean it's not bottomed, or that the threads are what bottoms?

                  Or....that's as far as it reached.

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                  Last edited by LateFan; 02-18-2018, 02:50 PM.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Well when you went to install them did they "thread in" or were they out of space in the tool it self as you attempted to install it?? that will tell you how much thread engagement there was

                    Looks to me like you ran out of thread, not necessarily out of hole with out looking down the end it hard to say which of the 3 situations is whats going on here..
                    Originally posted by Fusion
                    If a car is the epitome of freedom, than an electric car is house arrest with your wife titty fucking your next door neighbor.
                    The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money. -Alexis de Tocqueville


                    The Desire to Save Humanity is Always a False Front for the Urge to Rule it- H. L. Mencken

                    Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants.
                    William Pitt-

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I had to deal with a snapped subframe bolt yesterday on a buddy's e30 I was doing a oil pan gasket on. Imagine a snapped subframe bolt stuck inside your cars frame, not a nice situation. First tried left handed drill bits, which failed but drilled a hole all the way through the fastener, next tried an easy out which also failed. Then bumped the drill size up/ easy out again which also failed.

                      In the end, the drill bit size I used for the 3rd time was so large you should have been able to, at least in most situations, use a pick to remove the old fastener threads/ shavings. In my case I had to use a tap to re thread the hole. Not fun, that sub frame bolt was seriously corroded in there.

                      I don't really have any suggestions, but I wish you the best of luck sir. Broken fasteners are never fun.


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                      Comment


                        #12
                        ^^ thanks.

                        Originally posted by noid View Post
                        2. Left handed drill bit (quality bit from fastenal)
                        Any others? Irwin? I think I have a Fastenal shop here. Looks like one bit is $20 - $30.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by LateFan View Post
                          ^^ thanks.

                          Any others? Irwin? I think I have a Fastenal shop here. Looks like one bit is $20 - $30.
                          No, I cant stress enough, don't skimp on a bit, if it breaks on you, you'll be in a situation where now you are drilling hardened steel.

                          Ask them for a norseman bit, they usually have a display case with individual sizes at the front desk. Should be under $10, probably closer to $5-6.

                          If you get to the point of needing to thread, look here for your options for serts:




                          Another option you have, is to buy/make a hollow bolt, thread it in until it hits the broken part then weld inside the hollowed part; taking care to start welding at the bottom of the hole.

                          Your resource to do-it-yourself and interesting bmw and e30 stuff: www.rtsauto.com

                          Your resource to tools and tips: www.rtstools.com

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I like a good challenge.

                            Third option I just thought up:

                            Get a reverse threaded tap, and tap the broken off piece. Tighten new bolt into old to remove.
                            Your resource to do-it-yourself and interesting bmw and e30 stuff: www.rtsauto.com

                            Your resource to tools and tips: www.rtstools.com

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Measure the depth of the hole in the other cam, that should give you a better idea as to whether the bolt is bottomed out in there.

                              IG @turbovarg
                              '91 318is, M20 turbo
                              [CoTM: 4-18]
                              '94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust
                              - updated 1-26

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