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Anyone run adjustable camber/toe brackets with riser bushing?

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    Anyone run adjustable camber/toe brackets with riser bushing?

    I am planning to install the Garagistic subframe adjusters. I have the Condor 12mm riser kit and have heard that some people have trouble adjusting the eccentrics? I am fine with cutting out the rear bench to adjust from the inside?
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    #2
    I'm sure people have installed both, but they're essentially two ways to accomplish the same thing.

    IMO for a street car, riser bushings are the way to go. I'm not a fan of the eccentric washer adjustment style because of their tendency to slip.

    Sure, people say to crank down on them to stop them from slipping, but they're supposed to only be 65 ftlb because they're a pivot point. Crank down on them and sure it won't slip... until the bushing sleeve galls a relief into the trailing arm tab (or the sleeve stays stationary with the bolt and now the bushing rotates on the sleeve, prematurely wearing the bushing.)

    Identifying bolt rotation is hard to do by eye, so: Either mark the fastener and check periodically, or stick it on an alignment rack frequently. Either way is extra maintenance that is completely unnecessary for whatever the perceived advantage of adjustable rear toe/camber is for a street car.
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      #3
      Maybe really really late (a month), but I agree with Northern. Riser bushings are the way to go. I did the adjustable eccentrics in mine and didn't get one of them tightened down enough and it fell off while driving. My rear end was fishtailing all over the place but I managed to make it to work and had to order new parts. Torqued the hell out of them after that. The bolts aren't long enough, really. The threads don't even reach the outer edge of the lock nut so it's barely reaching the swaged part. I check them every once in a while to make sure they're still tight now.

      Even still, something is wrong on my right eccentric side and my camber is still too far off and causes wear issues (car is only 1.5" dropped) on my passenger rear tire. I just ordered the 85A poly riser bushings from Garagistic and will be installing them this weekend.

      Definitely go with the 12mm riser bushings. Also, don't forget to get the differential spacer kit so you don't get your driveshaft u joint or pinion angle off and cause premature failure.
      P.O.S 1989 325is - aka Project Sh*tbox

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        #4
        Anyone have any actual before/after camber measurements of the riser kit?

        I just installed the eccentric tabs a few weeks ago, and was able to remove 2.5 degrees of negative camber, by welding the plates so that the bottom of the slot was 1/4" above the bottom of the factory hole. Took me from -3.5 to -1, with the adjuster maxed out towards positive camber. If they ever slip, I'll just spot weld them in place. I don't have any thread engagement issues, the bolt was fully engaged, past the last thread on the nut.

        Regardless of what those riser bushings are advertised as being able to change, I won't believe it until I see some before/after measurements. If they can somehow pull 2-3 degrees of camber, I'll get on board with the agreement that they are superior in accomplishing the task of reliably removing a sufficient amount of negative camber.
        85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
        e30 restoration and V8 swap
        24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

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          #5
          I have this combination. I have the bolts on the outers mounted backwards so i can easily adjust them and a bent spanner so i can tighten the nuts. I add a weld so they do not undo themselves after a track day (was happening before)

          I struggle to get more than 1.5 degrees camber at ride height with this setup. But i have found that to be fine in my car even on the track. The rear end basically fights itself in terms of the bushes and they do wear more than if you did not have plates welded in for adjustment.

          I really despise this type of rear end regardless but this is as good as it gets unless i change to a rose joint setup.

          One thing i will add though is changing roll centre is not the same as adding camber/toe adjustment plates. You are not achieving the same thing, just a reduction in camber at ride height.

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