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Aftermarket gauges on s52 swap

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    Aftermarket gauges on s52 swap

    Need some advice. I bought a water temp and oil pressure gauge. I wanted more accurate water temp and don't trust my gauge when running autocross. I was thinking I would use an online hose adapter for water temp (not sure where to plum to on the block) and not sure where to run oil pressure sensor out of and what the port si? Anyone have any good tips and pics? I can't seem to find a good thread on this.

    #2
    Need more info on gauges and senders.

    Mechanical senders, specially temp, are large and SAE threads.
    john@m20guru.com
    Links:
    Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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      #3
      I deleted the throttle body heater hose and used the location on the head for my water temp sensor. For oil pressure, the easiest thing to do would be to get a new cap (or drill and tap your own) for the oil filter housing with holes you can either put a sender on, or use a remote line. Companies also sell adapters you can put in between the vanos oil line.

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        #4
        Originally posted by haaken675 View Post
        I deleted the throttle body heater hose and used the location on the head for my water temp sensor. For oil pressure, the easiest thing to do would be to get a new cap (or drill and tap your own) for the oil filter housing with holes you can either put a sender on, or use a remote line. Companies also sell adapters you can put in between the vanos oil line.

        What kind of senders were on the gauges you have?



        Depends on the gauge senders, and the OP already purchased them. Not many places to put a large resistor mechanical style temp gauge, best place for those is typically in the upper radiator hose. If using an electrical sender, the TB coolant port is a simple location, and right next tot he factory senders



        OPSU's are a similar situation, although they are typically 1/8NPT and all the locations in the engine are metric. The stock idiot light location is easy to use, but if you want to retain the light, it will require a tee, if not a simple 1/8 to metric adapter takes car of that.
        john@m20guru.com
        Links:
        Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
          What kind of senders were on the gauges you have?
          Electrical, Auto Meter, Z series (on sale, $45 ea).
          I do love the Podi gage which looks very period correct, but approaches 500 with the senders (some day) purchase link for Podi
          Podi, makers the only OEM replacement steering column for your Audi or Volkswagen. We pride ourselves on delivering the best pod and gauge solutions on the market.

          Pic




          Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
          Depends on the gauge senders, and the OP already purchased them. Not many places to put a large resistor mechanical style temp gauge, best place for those is typically in the upper radiator hose. If using an electrical sender, the TB coolant port is a simple location, and right next tot he factory senders

          OP? I will look for the TB coolant port. If you can post a pic, helpful. Or I will post one in a few.



          Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
          OPSU's are a similar situation, although they are typically 1/8NPT and all the locations in the engine are metric. The stock idiot light location is easy to use, but if you want to retain the light, it will require a tee, if not a simple 1/8 to metric adapter takes car of that.

          I can get an adapter. Pic of the location? I will hunt around, and add a pic.


          Thanks Gents, I will post more as I get through this for other rookie fidlers.

          Comment


            #6
            OP=original post(er)

            I would suggest the following:

            If you want to keep the idiot warning oil pressure light, then remove part #14 here:
            (OPSU) http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_1288

            Add a close nipple 12mmx1.5 male/male fitting in the filter housing. Then screw in 12mmx1.5 female/female/female tee and you will have 2 ports left over. Use the stock sender in one and an Autometer #2277 the other. This will adapt 12mm to 1/8npt, screw in gauge sender, DONE.

            ----------

            If you DONT care about the stock warning light, then use the #2277 adapter, screw it in, then gauge sender, then DONE.


            --------
            --------

            For the coolant, you may or may not have the TB heater loop. If you DONT have the loop, then unscrew part #15 here:



            which has a hose to part #6 and uses hose clamp #12 here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_6077

            #6 a metal hose that will need a cap of some sort - I just weld them closed but s piece of hose and cap works.

            Then screw in #2277 and your gauge sender, DONE.

            --------

            Not all heads came with #13 here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_6072

            But if yours has it and the TB loop installed, then remove it and screw in Autometer #2267, then gauge sender, and DONE.

            ----------

            If you DO have the TB heater loop installed and DONT have #13 here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_6072

            Then you will need to do a similar tee as you did with the stock oil sender.

            -----------

            There is still info lacking to create a perfect post. Since you are swapped, many use the e30 gauge sender re-threaded to from 14 to 12 mm in the TB hole. Early m50/s50 heads had all 3 drilled and threaded.

            -------------
            -------------
            -------------

            Just realized how dynamic the situation is with swaps, and worst part is, I typed this out 3x due to log out and windows 10 deciding to update mid stream.

            Pretty basic though:

            Senders from autometer are 1/8npt. Thread for block/head are either 14mmx1.5 or 12mmx1.5. It's just a matter of finding the proper holes to screw you junk in haha.
            Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 05-25-2018, 12:46 AM.
            john@m20guru.com
            Links:
            Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

            Comment


              #7
              ....or you can just purchase the Bimmerworld billet adapters ($$$$) and have same results lol. Just instead of $50 in hardware, you get $250 in "plug and play".
              john@m20guru.com
              Links:
              Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks forced, Super helpful. A couple things. Did you mean to put this link here? there is no part 15

                Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post

                For the coolant, you may or may not have the TB heater loop. If you DONT have the loop, then unscrew part #15 here:



                I am going to take this one subject at a time.
                First OPSU.
                There are two ports on the Oil filter assembly. The factory sensor port looks hard to get to. what do you think about using the port below (see next post)

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                  #9
                  Option 1
                  Drill and tap the fitting to the right of my finger.
                  Option 2 find an adapter fo the fitting to the left of my finger.Click image for larger version

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                    #10
                    For Water temp sensor
                    I have a hose coming off the bottom of my surge custom tank, pic below.
                    I have a union already in that line, so my plan is to remove the rubber intake portion (for access).
                    Drain the coolant
                    And find a “t” or other union to fit that line, that i can adapt an 1/8 npt port into. Click image for larger version

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                      #11
                      Pic of union already in the line
                      Click image for larger version

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                        #12
                        here is what i am using for my oil pressure on my turbo m52

                        Description This is a handy and easy way to add aftermarket oil pressure sending units to your car.A Stainless steel banjo fitting attaches this machined block to oil pressure port on your oil filter housing.  You can then attach your factory oil pressure sender to one of the M12x1.5 threaded ports.  The nice thing abo
                        Want some custom Splatter Paint Trim Pieces, Kidney Grills, Shift Knob, and Valve Covers with M Colors PM ME ! INSTAGRAM ~ @snaki_customs :D

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