That looks pretty COOL
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Cooling your m30
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Excellent work. I've been thinking about refitting AC to mine (after driving in up to 115F this summer & thinking I'm getting too old for this :) )
Looking forward to hearing how your setup goes on the hot weather.
Would you mind measuring the distance from the front face of the water pump pulley to the your radiator? I have a 40mm gap where my engine sits, wondering how tight a fan would be in there.
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Originally posted by lukeADE335i View PostExcellent work. I've been thinking about refitting AC to mine (after driving in up to 115F this summer & thinking I'm getting too old for this :) )
Looking forward to hearing how your setup goes on the hot weather.
Would you mind measuring the distance from the front face of the water pump pulley to the your radiator? I have a 40mm gap where my engine sits, wondering how tight a fan would be in there.
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Thanks for the measurements.
I don't think you'll have problems with the engine moving around too much. I can barely get my fingers between the distributor cap & radiator, but it has never hit.
I've also been looking at the possibility of using an Audi A4 clutch fan (which is very slim due to the Audi's engine being so far forward in the chassis).
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CorvallisBMW,
I have compiled my part list based on your findings. Does my list look solid?
Radiator Behr 535i Manual Radiator
Aux Switch 80/88c and 90c Temp Switch
Radiator Cap E30 1.4 Bar Radiator Cap
Coolant vacuum bleeder
16" Spal Spal 30102048
10" Spal Spal 30100435
Zip tie Mounting Rod
Relay Spal FRH Fan relay
I have a few questions,
First off, how is the Cooling system with A/C holding up with the 10" puller?
What's the highest outside ambient temperature you have experienced while driving? How did the cooling system do? What was the gauge at?
What is the ideal idle and moving temperature for these engines in the E30?
Should I use a E30 1.4 Bar or M30B35 2.0 Bar Radiator Cap?(Only issue I see with this is the E30 Heater Core bursting above 1.4 Bar)
Would tapping off the 88c high temp wire(in the 80/88c Aux Fan Temp Switch) to feed the sender wire in the 10" relay work?
Would it be worth it or is the standalone 91c better?
After having the cooling system in for sometime, would you change anything? Fan Size, Fan Performance, Fan Activation Temperature, Dual Temperature Switch, Wiring?
Thanks, Got to be prepared for another 125 degree day out here this summer!
#AZE30
1991 318i
1989 325i
1989 335i
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Originally posted by LagunaSecaBlue View PostCorvallisBMW,
I have compiled my part list based on your findings. Does my list look solid?
Radiator Behr 535i Manual Radiator
Aux Switch 80/88c and 90c Temp Switch
Radiator Cap E30 1.4 Bar Radiator Cap
Coolant vacuum bleeder
16" Spal Spal 30102048
10" Spal Spal 30100435
Zip tie Mounting Rod
Relay Spal FRH Fan relay
I have a few questions,
First off, how is the Cooling system with A/C holding up with the 10" puller?
What's the highest outside ambient temperature you have experienced while driving? How did the cooling system do? What was the gauge at?
What is the ideal idle and moving temperature for these engines in the E30?
Should I use a E30 1.4 Bar or M30B35 2.0 Bar Radiator Cap?(Only issue I see with this is the E30 Heater Core bursting above 1.4 Bar)
Would tapping off the 88c high temp wire(in the 80/88c Aux Fan Temp Switch) to feed the sender wire in the 10" relay work?
Would it be worth it or is the standalone 91c better?
After having the cooling system in for sometime, would you change anything? Fan Size, Fan Performance, Fan Activation Temperature, Dual Temperature Switch, Wiring?
Thanks, Got to be prepared for another 125 degree day out here this summer!
Ideal temps are regulated by your thermostat, which is 78C for the m30b35 IIRC. However the e30 temp gauge is calibrated for 88C (or whatever an m20 runs at) so you will notice that at crusing speeds the needle sits just above the 1/4 mrk, as the gauge "thinks" you're 10C cool. To remedy this you would need to swap in an e34 535i temp gauge.
I don't know about the radiator caps but 2bar is 29psi, which is a lot. I'd be worried about leaks at that point, not just from the heater core but from hose clamps and all kinds of places. 1.4bar seems more reasonable but I'm not an expert on this.
Yes you can use the same 88C trigger wire to trigger both fan relays; the amperage draw is negligible.
As far as changing anything, I wouldn't make any functional changes but I would have done my wiring more cleanly the first time around (I'm still learning...). So far though it's working pretty well. But if you're planning on running A/C in 125F ambient, I would get the biggest f**king fan I could, 16" may not be enough. As I said in post #1 it will only cover half of your radiator and only with hot air off the condenser. When in doubt, go big.
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Thanks for the response,
I will be putting in an aftermarket gauge eventually so that should give me a more accurate reading of what's going on.
I was iffy about that 2.0 Bar, after I posted that I read up on some people using it on the E30 335i with good results because it boosts cooling capacity. It is still a toss up for me.
I have figured out my cooling solution which will cover the ENTIRE Radiator!(The pusher will be on the passenger side and the puller on the driver side covering 402 square inches.)
Alright, here is the final setup.
16" Spal Curved Blade Pusher Up Front set up on the A/C Relay using a 80/88c switch.
I am going to bite the bullet and try the 16" Low Profile Puller in place of the 10"(Same depth, I may have to do some trimming and cutting but it should work!) Set up on a Spal Relay and Harness using a 91c switch.Last edited by LagunaSecaBlue; 06-20-2014, 05:09 PM.
#AZE30
1991 318i
1989 325i
1989 335i
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60amp fans? Jebus, I didn't know they came that big. You'd have custom wire it.
That 16" puller is pretty cool, I didn't know they made one. But I know that on my b35 with goodntight mounts there is no way even a 2" deep fan will fit. The nipple on the water pump is about 3/4" from the radiator.
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