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is my 85 318i supposed to suck this bad?

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    #16
    Originally posted by Farbin Kaiber View Post
    Cap, rotor, wires, plugs, a new o2, and a timing and valve adjustment should be your first step.

    Got any links/info on doing a valve adjustment????

    nvm, found one: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/21/32/
    Last edited by SLOWER; 05-07-2010, 11:14 AM.

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      #17
      Definitely borrow a timing light and set it correctly. The M10 in my E21 ran like crap if it was even 2 degrees off time. You can rent one from Autozone for free.


      1987 E30 cabrio | Bumper swap | H&R Sport | Koni Yellow | Eibach Sways | BavAuto strut bar | Cardinal seats
      MTech2 wheel | Husco Armrest | Smoked Hella Smileys | 5k HID | Stromung | RS003
      | Shadowline | Amber Fogs | Too much else to list



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        #18
        Originally posted by VacMan View Post
        Definitely borrow a timing light and set it correctly. The M10 in my E21 ran like crap if it was even 2 degrees off time. You can rent one from Autozone for free.
        sweet, i need a walkthrough on how to do this though.

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          #19
          Ok, I guess I should have said it, also buy a Bentley Manual.


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            #20
            Yah, I will when I can afford it. Ive actually got the digital copy but need to find a mac proggie to open it.

            Did a valve adjustment today to no avail. That leaves me with o2 sensor (a pricey little fucker), dist. cap and rotor...

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              #21
              What about the wires? And did you find out what plugs you have?

              Just buy the book, it will be worth it'w weight in gold and prevention of busted knuckles.

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                #22
                Originally posted by SLOWER View Post
                Yah, I will when I can afford it. Ive actually got the digital copy but need to find a mac proggie to open it.

                Did a valve adjustment today to no avail. That leaves me with o2 sensor (a pricey little fucker), dist. cap and rotor...
                distro cap and rotor can be had for less than $15 out the door. go to advance and have them hook you up. I just bought a rotor button for $6 and change iirc...( http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=169772 )
                '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
                NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
                Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

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                  #23
                  Do you really think it could be the rotor? Ive turned the distributor all over the place and nothing helps. Leds me to think timing isnt the problem...

                  Also, where is the o2 sensor located on this beast? I was thinking about trying to clean it and see if that does anything for me, just for kicks.

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                    #24
                    LOL.

                    Timing is surely a problem, as said above, even two degrees off can cause havoc, Most o2 sensors are found in exhaust manifolds.


                    Ive got five dollars that you will end up blowing your m10 like e30trooper did when he didn't listen to me.

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                      #25
                      Haha, funny thread. Also very informative. When I got my 84 318i, I was like, crap. M10s are as slow as dirt. Plus Im a loser because I got one with the 3spd auto. Lame. My distributor is out of alignment too, but I didnt know that could cause a major malfunction. And x2 on the bosch platnum 4's. Lame plugs for lame people who think the most expensive product is the best for your car. What the mfg or a well respected tuner recommends is the right plug. Usually the two agree.

                      Join WIBimmers if you live in Wisconsin, dude.www.wibimmers.com

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                        #26
                        Right, but I've moved the timing tiny amounts at a time to no avail. Anyways, I went and bought a cap and rotor, but my light is busted. So I'll have to call around and see if I can find one to rent. Napa and Autozone dont rent...lame.

                        Checked the plugs theyre Champion N11YC

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                          #27
                          Lol.


                          Champion Spark Plug / CHAMPION / N11YC
                          Description: CHAMPION SPARK PLUG
                          CHAMPION / N11YC
                          Pack Size: 4
                          Replaces (OEM): CHAMPION N11YC

                          Fits Models:
                          CLUB CAR GOLF CARTS -- with Kawasaki 9 and 11 HP OHV engines
                          EZ-GO GOLF CARTS -- with Robin EH35C engines
                          HONDA GAS ENGINES -- 4.0/GX120, GXV120, 5.5/GX160,GXV160, 6.5/GX200, GXV200, 8.0/GX240, GXV240,9.0/GX270, GXV270, 11.0/GX340, GXV340, 13.0/GX390, GXV390, 18.0/GX610, GXV610, 20.0/GX620, GX640, GXV620, GXV640, 24.0/GX670
                          KAWASAKI GAS ENGINES -- 4.0/FE120D, 5.0/FC150V, 5.5/FE170D, 6.0/FC180V, 8.0/FE250D, 9.0/FC290V, 9.5/FE290D, 11.5/FE350D, 13.0/FC400V, FC401V,14.0/FC420V, 17.0/FC540, 18.0/FH531V, 19.0/FH601V, 21.0/FH641V, 23.0/FH680V
                          Type: Standard
                          Origin: U.S. Made

                          Part No. 130542
                          Swap them out for the correct plug. Also, gap them correctly. Also, a small dab of copper anti-seize on the threads is handy, not a frigging huge blob, but a small dab.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by SLOWER View Post
                            Do you really think it could be the rotor? Ive turned the distributor all over the place and nothing helps. Leds me to think timing isnt the problem...

                            Also, where is the o2 sensor located on this beast? I was thinking about trying to clean it and see if that does anything for me, just for kicks.
                            I've seen rotors pass with visual inspection and gone over the entire ignition system only to come back to replace the rotor and rough idle issues gone away.


                            It's cheap, just do it.
                            '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
                            NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
                            Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by Jaxx_ View Post
                              I've seen rotors pass with visual inspection and gone over the entire ignition system only to come back to replace the rotor and rough idle issues gone away.


                              It's cheap, just do it.
                              word I went and picked some up. didnt help so far, but i need to get a timing light.

                              LOL @ my sweet N11YC's. Fuckin NAPA
                              Last edited by SLOWER; 05-09-2010, 10:31 PM.

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                                #30
                                Also keep in mind that you drive the slowest BMW known to man at 6000 ft. It's going to run like shit anyway and if a Bentley manual is too pricey for your broke ass perhaps this is not the car for you. I hear Civics are really cheap these days...
                                '89 325is S50 Track Montser
                                '04 X5 Daily/Tow Vehicle

                                http://www.avarestoration.com

                                http://www.myspace.com/brendanfiddle


                                Click here if you want to be my zombie slave...

                                http://www.youtube.com/user/Fidhle007

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