Greetings biotches, and HELLLP!

[skunkworx]

OK so i think i pegged it!!! I opened up the AFM to look at the carbon track and that all looked good, but upon inspecting the flap inside i noticed at about 3/4 of the way open there was a bit of binding between the flap and the housing. Its something i must have missed the first time around, and now that i know how important it is to the little BEEMER i thought it wise to check again. Tweaked on it with a screwdriver and freed it up a little bit...but ill need a replacement. Im 99% sure this is my issue, it makes the most sense to me and after my test drive i could tell it was still binding a small amount but much improved...

I feel that all my work has not gone to waste however, everything i did needed to be done and now its running a lot smoother.

Thanks for your help guys it is really appreciated.

[skunkworx]

I only ever had an idle problem caused by the afm and icv being toast.

I'm going to get a couple of AFM's and ICV's at pick n pull ive still got some slow/low idle issues here and there but most of the time it purrs. Ill switch them around until i get the best combo. I think partsgeek has these parts new or reman as well for decent price.

Now i can throw some coilovers on this thing and go show it off!!!!!

[jeffnhiscars]

I have 3 ICVs that I rotate out when one gets tempermental and doesnt respond to cleaning. They seem to appreciate the vacation. My favorite high idle fix is a $2 C clamp on the ICV hose. Allows me to dial in the idle to the rpm of my choice with great precision :-)

[Swanny]

I'm going to get a couple of AFM's and ICV's at pick n pull ive still got some slow/low idle issues here and there but most of the time it purrs. Ill switch them around until i get the best combo. I think partsgeek has these parts new or reman as well for decent price.

Now i can throw some coilovers on this thing and go show it off!!!!!

You can save a lot of time by just testing those bad boys with a multimeter. Check out pelican parts idle issue DIY. Has all the instructions

[skunkworx]

You can save a lot of time by just testing those bad boys with a multimeter. Check out pelican parts idle issue DIY. Has all the instructions

My idle is more or less constant. Just seafoamed the motor (till i can refurb the head) and adjusted the ICV screw out a little over 1/8 of a turn. Shes purrin like a kitty cat. In the process of looking for a motor to start rebuilding on the side so i can drop it in around summer time. Not a million horsepower but new pistons, reground cam maybe the 264, slim head gasket and machine everything so its tits. Dont want to spend a mint, but enough to build a solid m10 with a nice torquey midrange and very reliable. Its just a street DD, i have bikes for when i need to go veyron fast.

[SoopaGhetto]

My idle is more or less constant. Just seafoamed the motor (till i can refurb the head) and adjusted the ICV screw out a little over 1/8 of a turn. Shes purrin like a kitty cat. In the process of looking for a motor to start rebuilding on the side so i can drop it in around summer time. Not a million horsepower but new pistons, reground cam maybe the 264, slim head gasket and machine everything so its tits. Dont want to spend a mint, but enough to build a solid m10 with a nice torquey midrange and very reliable. Its just a street DD, i have bikes for when i need to go veyron fast.

292+ or go home

[skunkworx]

292+ or go home

Agreed whole heartedly good sir! Found a long block that needs "gone through" for 250 bucks. Pick it up after christmas.

[SoopaGhetto]

one of the best mods for the m10 imo (unless turbo is in your budget). i would go 304 or 316 if i had another m10

Agreed whole heartedly good sir! Found a long block that needs "gone through" for 250 bucks. Pick it up after christmas.

try to pick up the 2002 2.0 crank and pistons. you could have a nice 2.0 for next to nothing. especially since it needs to be "gone through"

[skunkworx]

Well, after changing the AFM with a different one, i still have the same problem. I havent tested the voltage, but the hesitation didn't change, worse or better with the new (used) AFM. I will be re entering my process of elimination. FOCK.

[skunkworx]

one of the best mods for the m10 imo (unless turbo is in your budget). i would go 304 or 316 if i had another m10



try to pick up the 2002 2.0 crank and pistons. you could have a nice 2.0 for next to nothing. especially since it needs to be "gone through"

Gonna search for one once i pick up the motor.

[3bimmersover25]

Well, after changing the AFM with a different one, i still have the same problem. I havent tested the voltage, but the hesitation didn't change, worse or better with the new (used) AFM. I will be re entering my process of elimination. FOCK.

My experience of adding new parts to fix a running problem ended with the throttle position switch. It can be removed without taking the throttle body off but you will need to bend a screwdriver to reach one screw.

With the engine switched off it should audibly click just above the cable being at rest. With mine the car would die under throttle then catch again at lower revs. The switch turned out to be full of oily gunge. You mentioned your TB was dirty too?

Is the surge running ahead of the throttle or below it? like is it revving higher than the gas you are giving it?

[skunkworx]

Its funny you mentioned the TPS. Today i drove to and from work with the TPS completely disconnected!!! and the problem was the same. (i didnt mean to i forgot to hook it back up) No change from TPS connected to TPS disconnected. So it is raising a flag for sure.

My car is hesitating and jerking at 3.5k rpm at anywhere from 30% to 70% throttle. (the middle). It seems to surge in the middle of throttle opening at the middle of rpm so its hard to say if its ahead or behind. If i had to choose id say its running below the throttle opening. It also seems real flat on the higher revs of the motor. The thing runs great till about 3200 rpm then it surges and falls flat after 4k. It only really does it when its at full operating temp. IF it does it at all when motor is cold, its hardly noticable.

I was thinking it would have something to do with the car being in open loop vs. closed loop, ive heard of some problems like that. But i will check the TPS right now and get back to you.

There seemed to be an excessive amount of oil coming from the breather on the valve cover to the TB. (needs valve guide seals for sure) Thats why my TB was gunky, so no doubt the TPS is nasty too. I will investigate.

[skunkworx]

Ok, so cleaned the TPS for now, went for a drive, and not much changed. I think it needs to be replaced all together. It is clicking at the proper time, and i set it back correctly, but it was very dirty inside. It is also missing a screw on the side closest to the head. I wonder if that would cause a vacuum leak or some sort of air leak. Although it cant be much as it still is pretty tight. I'll see if i can find a screw to make it work.

[thebutterson]

did you check continuity at each point while it was out? I would rely on that more than clicking.

[skunkworx]

No i didnt go for the multimeter last night, but the fact that the car runs no different with it plugged in or unplugged tells me its obviously bad.