Usually happens around the lower RPM range. When it happens, I usually go WOT and the power usually comes back. Lousy idle as well. What gives?
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Intermittent Complete Loss of Power
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On the E30 the O2 plug is on the passenger side at the very back of the engine bay mounted on the side of the chassis (and is a round connector just like the AFM), perhaps the E36 is similar. Whatever the case the plug will be near the exhaust manifold.
Does the cars idle fluctuate instead of sticking at an RPM too low for proper idling, if so my money is on vacuum leak. But an AFM or CTS failure is also a strong possibility. Give us more info on the poor operation, when it comes in, if the car needs to be hot or cold, and if the car is having trouble starting.
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I think I found the O2 plug on the E36 and it was underneath near the transmission.
Very little to none idle fluctuation. No trouble starting. Usually needs to warm up a bit. The problem happens about 70% of the time but when I unplug the AMF the problem is there 100% of the time so I'm leaning towards a bad AMF. Best way to test it? Or does anybody want a video?
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Originally posted by theshadow92 View PostI think I found the O2 plug on the E36 and it was underneath near the transmission.
Very little to none idle fluctuation. No trouble starting. Usually needs to warm up a bit. The problem happens about 70% of the time but when I unplug the AMF the problem is there 100% of the time so I'm leaning towards a bad AMF. Best way to test it? Or does anybody want a video?
Sounds like you may have a dead spot in the carbon track. But the test will reveal more.
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Like we said above, the O2 sensor, and the AFM are the most likely electronic faults. Additionally, the cam & crank sensors could be experiencing some odd issue, but it probably wouldn't be at just low RPM. Outside of that maybe a faulty TPS that thinks it's at WOT all the time, but this is not overly likely.
Probably testing the AFM with an oscilloscope would be the most effective measure, but most of us don't have that. Of course you would probably end up dismayed at its poor performance from a purely electronic standpoint.
Other possibilities include a vacuum leak (likely) or a fuel pressure/delivery issue (not likely).
Does the car stutter after you let off of the throttle during these periods of poor performance? When my O2 sensor was having issues (coding infrequently) it caused poor initial acceleration, stuttered occasionally on throttle lift to idle, and performed fine at or near WOT.
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Wanna bring this back to life as i’m having the same issue but with my e30, someone suggested someone’s account to read off of but the link doesn’t work anymore. Let me give the exact experiences i’m having, it’ll start it definitely took longer to start just by a second or so because normally she’d start right up, but the idle was quite rough. Drove it and it never stalled though it sounded like it wanted to, at lower RPM’s I’d have no power when accelerating but once at higher speeds or WOT it’ll drive and run good.
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