Cold Start Issue w/ PICTAR

[401e30]

my m10 hates to wake up in the morning. it'll start after only a few cranks, but then dies immediately unless I keep my foot on the pedal to keep engine revolutions high. I pulled my cold start valve out to test if it was injecting fuel, and it wasn't.



next I need to make sure the cold start valve is getting power provided by the thermo time switch. can anyone confirm that I have labeled the correct sensors in their correct locations? Thanks in advance.

P

[Hey_You]

Looks right to me. Is your IAC valve functioning correctly? Have you tried to jump power to your cold start valve/injector to make sure it is working? I don't see the vacuum line that comes off the FPR, is it hooked up to your intake manifold like it should be?

[401e30]

When the car is fully warmed up it purrs like a kitten and idles around 800rpm without fluctuation, so I believe that the Idle Control Valve is working. Jumping power to the cold start valve is a good idea, I was going to wait a couple hours until my engine cools to make sure my Thermo Time Switch has continuity; thus providing a path to ground for my Cold Start Valve to operate. If it doesn't, I need a Thermo Time Switch; if it does, I'll jump power to the Cold Start and see if it squirts an even pattern of fuel for about 8 seconds, if it doesn't, I need a Cold Start Valve.

My Fuel Pressure Regulator has a brand new vacuum line connected to the intake manifold.

Thanks for the response ! Any more input is greatly appreciated.

P

[401e30]

I have continuity across my Thermo Time Switch when my motor is dead cold, and none after it's fully heated; so my TTS is working well. When I checked voltage at my Cold Start harness connector I only had 9 volts, I believe it's supposed to operate on 12/battery voltage. Time to start chasing wires? Why wouldn't my Cold Start Valve at least piddle on 9v? I still haven't supplied power to the valve, I guess I should try that.

P