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ETA No Hot Start: I've done everything

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    ETA No Hot Start: I've done everything

    I have replaced everything on my ETA except the starter. This includes plugs, coil, wires, injectors, pumps, fpr, cps, ecu, and temp sensor. If the car sits for a few hours after being driven, it cannot fire. Cranks and cranks. Even with starting fluid.

    Is this vapor lock?

    #2
    Do a smoke test when the engine is hot, with the exhaust plugged. Let's eliminate vacuum leaks before examine anything else.

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      #3
      check;

      spark

      compression

      fuel
      Originally posted by wholepailofwater
      Q
      :devil:


      WTB: Dove Grey e36 Front Door Panels (2 door)

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        #4
        Jumper your main relay and fuel pump relay to rule out bad contactors. I recently had an issue where the car would start fine and run fine but would not start after it had been running which turned out to be a combination of some funky grounds, bad relays, and a nickel that was rattling around in the steering column and intermittently causing a short. Another thing to look at when it is in a no-start condition is whether or not the coil is firing. Put a 12v bulb across the coil leads (+ and - leads not the coil wire itself) and verify that the light flashes when cranking. if it doesn't then your issue is electrical. If this is the case then start with the main culprits: Main relay, Fuses, Grounding, Crank position sensor plug, C121, and DME (unlikely it is the DME, but there is a procedure for at least verifying the wiring to the DME with a multimeter)

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          #5
          I had the same problem and it was the reference sensors on the bell housing. I have another eta here that I bought as a no start car and I'm waiting for the new sensors for too.

          Let me add that I just switched those 2 connectors on the "no start" car....and it started !! I cannot offer a better example of what can go wrong :-)
          Last edited by jeffnhiscars; 10-21-2017, 08:01 AM.
          Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
          Alice the Time Capsule
          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
          87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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            #6
            Had an eta come in the shop once doing something similar. Turned out one the pins were bent on the ecu connector.
            john@m20guru.com
            Links:
            Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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              #7
              I'm not saying this will solve your problem, I have the same car and had the same symptoms. Turned out to be the valve adjustments were too tight. Had a shop do the valve adjustment, and it was perfect.
              1985 325e Sedan, 1986 325e Sedan, 2006 BMW X5, 2012 M3 Sedan, 2013 135is, 2017 M3 Sedan ZCP Competition

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                #8
                My problem turned out to be plugged injectors due to the car having sat.
                Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                Alice the Time Capsule
                http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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                  #9
                  So, thanks for all the advice.

                  Turns out the reman injectors I bought were defective!

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