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    Changing Timing Belt Only / No WP

    So when I got my MTech Vert a month ago i noticed there was writing in the engine bay that hinted the water pump had been changed a couple thousand miles ago. No info on the timing belt. So I went to the shop and he confirmed only the pump was changed.

    My question: is it possible to change the timing belt without removing the coolant/hoses?

    I just flushed the coolant and thermostat a couple weeks ago and hate bleeding the system. I’ll do it if I have to.
    1987 325 Turbo

    #2
    pretty sure you have to as radiator needs to come out and covers are connected to the metal coolant tube etc etc.

    raise the front of the car it is a piece of piss to bleed. you dont need to drain all the coolant leave the block plug alone
    89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

    new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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      #3
      Originally posted by digger View Post
      pretty sure you have to as radiator needs to come out and covers are connected to the metal coolant tube etc etc.

      raise the front of the car it is a piece of piss to bleed. you dont need to drain all the coolant leave the block plug alone
      Ok that’s what I was thinking I was hoping someone had a secret method I haven’t heard of lol. Thanks!
      1987 325 Turbo

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        #4
        Do yourself a favor and buy a pneumatic coolant bleed tool.


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          #5
          If the tstat doesn't have a bleed hole I drill one and have never EVER had any issue bleeding...but then I've never had a fan clutch refuse to come off so maybe I'm just lucky
          Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
          Alice the Time Capsule
          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
          87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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            #6
            Ive never ever had an issue with bleeding the coolant as well, but I have the bleed hole on the thermostat and drive to a steep hill once its warmed up to let out any air if there is any.

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              #7
              Originally posted by digger View Post
              pretty sure you have to as radiator needs to come out and covers are connected to the metal coolant tube etc etc.

              raise the front of the car it is a piece of piss to bleed. you dont need to drain all the coolant leave the block plug alone
              Huh? I've never once removed the radiator to do the timing belt.

              However, you definitely have to remove all the hoses. Never had problems bleeding either, but sometimes things are just a bitch...
              Build thread

              Bimmerlabs

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                #8
                Originally posted by nando View Post
                Huh? I've never once removed the radiator to do the timing belt.

                However, you definitely have to remove all the hoses. Never had problems bleeding either, but sometimes things are just a bitch...
                I value my knuckles lol, given the coolant is drained and hoses out it takes all of 2mins makes it so much easier.
                89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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                  #9
                  depends - it's not that easy with an automatic, and many people have fans attached to it. I never found it to be an issue, but I do agree having the extra room can be nice (having just fought through a water pump replacement on my 330i, where getting the pump physically in and out of it's mounting point is a puzzle all on it's own).
                  Build thread

                  Bimmerlabs

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                    #10
                    Not a problem to change the Timing belt only. I've done with radiator in and with radiator out. Its fine both ways but with the radiator out is much easier and as mentioned easier on the knuckles. If you leave the hoses connected and just disconnect them from the water pump/ thermostat you can pull the radiator out as one unit.
                    318iS Track Rat :nice: www.drive4corners.com
                    '86 325iX 3.1 Stroker Turbo '86 S38B36 325

                    No one makes this car anymore. The government won't allow them, normal people won't buy them. So it's up to us: the freaks, the weirdos, the informed. To buy them, to appreciate them, and most importantly, to drive them.

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                      #11
                      People tend to over complicate things. The m20 expansion tank is made to be easily removed and lifted well above the engine so release all the bubbles. No need for special tools. I found a funnel that fits exactly in the cap opening so even removing it is not completely necessary. The bleeder doesn't even need to be opened, but does speed things up a bit. If the cap is higher than all the hoses, then all is well, but if you are parked on a slope, or even have a cheap upper hose that's too high, that's when the air gets trapped.

                      As Jeff said, a small bleeder hole at the top of the thermostat also helps.

                      The radiator removal does speed up the whole timing belt/pump job - in fact I remove the hood every time too. As digger said, those few minutes at the start/end of the job really speeds up the middle lol.

                      And yes, the belt and/or pump can be changed independently, but be cautious when installing a pump only. If you don't disturb the belt and change the pump, it's very easy for it to catch the edge of the tensioner during install and not seal completely (but your case is opposite OP).
                      john@m20guru.com
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